Lanoguard - anyone used it as rustproofing?

[Martin63]

Made from lanolin - yes, as in sheeps fleece by products!

I have heard really good things about it and wondered if anyone on the board had used it to rustproof the underside of their 480?

Jeff - you have recommended Bilt Hamber S50 cavity wax in the past. Does treating with Lanoguard (or something similar) first and then following up soon after with a cavity waxing sound logical?

[WillC9303]

I’ve used Lanoguard for the underside of mine. Easy to spray on and is like a coating of wax. I’ve found that dirt sticks to it easier, but thats obviously only on top of the waxed areas.

I trust that it’s a good solution, but I’ve only had it on about a year. Haven’t noticed any rust forming, though.

[gltease]

I've done my 480 (R3) , front to back with the spray and the grease, was done during the warm few weeks, and appears to be doing a great job so far.

[Martin63]

Thanks!

I think I will go for it, especially with the winter approaching........and the Germany/Netherlands event next May!

[jifflemon]

Jeff - you have recommended Bilt Hamber S50 cavity wax in the past. Does treating with Lanoguard (or something similar) first and then following up soon after with a cavity waxing sound logical?

If there's one thing you can't have enough of, its rust prevention!

Most cars rot from the inside out. Water is designed to be able to get out of cavities. If it can't do that easily, it'll find another way, usually by rotting its way through. Its particularly bad where there's panel joins or seams, for example, where panels are spot welded together.

Cavity wax works by covering those seams, giving water/moisture no chance to sit in them, and thus, hopefully, drain away where the manufacturer intended. This does, obviously, rely on drain holes not being covered in crap - Rear bumper sponges, I'm looking at you!

[gltease]

Jeff - you have recommended Bilt Hamber S50 cavity wax in the past. Does treating with Lanoguard (or something similar) first and then following up soon after with a cavity waxing sound logical?

If there's one thing you can't have enough of, its rust prevention!

Most cars rot from the inside out. Water is designed to be able to get out of cavities. If it can't do that easily, it'll find another way, usually by rotting its way through. Its particularly bad where there's panel joins or seams, for example, where panels are spot welded together.

Cavity wax works by covering those seams, giving water/moisture no chance to sit in them, and thus, hopefully, drain away where the manufacturer intended. This does, obviously, rely on drain holes not being covered in crap - Rear bumper sponges, I'm looking at you!

Yep, Prep is the key here, as jifflemon pointed out check your drain holes before applying.. Lanoguard thankfully doesn't work like the traditional waxes, less gloopy.. I used it externally only , and used the grease on the large bolts and fittings like subframe and suspension bushes etc. The Lanoguard FB group is a great place for tips and advice and I've read instances where mechanics welcomed the application of the grease on stubborn fixings, obviously not the brakes ..

[Jay-Kay-Em]

This year I have been a victim of advertising too!

I saw the Lanoguard adverts and fancied trying something new.

Lanoguard has some amazing recommendations from organisations associated with coastal use.

Like many of these things, it’s just the emperor’s new clothes – any product that keeps out oxygen in theory is a corrosion guard. I see a few copy cat products now like Lanocare.

You’re right, it's derived from sheep and makes you, your garage & car smell like a sheep farm!

I have just done the 968 front to back. It’s really easy to apply with the spray gun.

This was my choice;



Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, Lanoguard and/or Dynax-UC.

After a good general going over with a wire wheel, all treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80...



You've got to pay really close attention, because the 968 was suffering exactly the same as my Mk2 Golf. It's barely noticeable, but...



The underseal cracks (arrowed), and it becomes a water trap, with the rust brewing underneath...



There is no doubt, in three or four years, with winter use (if you're that way inclined), then that will need a welder.

Hopefully we have arrested that.

Clean up to bare metal...



...and treat with H80...



Let that dry overnight. A sympathetic touch up of paint and then few wax coats of UC or spray Lanoguard.



Lanoguard is a spray that doesn’t really set or cure. It isn’t a paint, it doesn’t bond to anything, there is no chemical process. It’s just a spray of animal juice. Because of this, you have to re-apply annually as it will wash off in time. Because it doesn’t fully set, you can’t paint over it. So no, wouldn’t recommend this…

Does treating with Lanoguard (or something similar) first and then following up soon after with a cavity waxing sound logical?

Because it kind of half sets, I had the horrible call out from under the MoT ramp…. “ you gotta leak here mate”. It was Lanoguard that had accumulated and dripped off components. I had to explain to the MoT man that I had just sprayed my car with sheep juice.

Disadvantages

• It stinks
• It doesn’t really set
• Its forever tacky and collects stones / grit
• It’s an annual re-application
• It’s a fine mist spray so everything in the garage gets covered.. including my tool box. Doh.

Advantages

• Easy to spray about willy nilly
• Its clear*
• It makes underbody components look more visually pleasing. This isn’t some magical process, its just similar to how things look when wet.

* Being clear is a big advantage, for me anyway. When I look at a car for sale, if I see a thick coating of black Schutz, I’m either walking, or suspect something is being hidden. With Lanoguard, I can’t be blamed of covering anything up. All the sins are still to be seen, just (in theory) prevented from getting any worse.

How does it perform? Well, without waiting a decade with ten annual reapplications, who’s to say. There are some YouTube videos that have done a year with it, perhaps 2. The 968 is a total garage queen so wont be doing any salty winters to prove. Hell, it doesn’t even do rain

I have however bought a little Peugeot 107 for the winter. I have just jet washed all the arches & underside and given that a good sheep spraying for the winter so that’s my actual test bed.

What you need is someone to treat a car from new, re-applied annually and inspect side-by-side with a similar car that wasn’t treated after a decade.

Be under no illusion, if you spray animal juice over rust, you still have a rusty car. I have also not found an after treatment on planet earth that totally eliminates rust for good.

Not withstanding all the good comments above about drain holes etc.