Crankcase breather is sending lots of oil into turbo help!

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felyx
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Crankcase breather is sending lots of oil into turbo help!

Post by felyx » Sat Sep 20, 2008 12:57 pm

i had completely overlooked the foam covered vac pipe thingy valve .

when i last took off the intercooler and boost hoses there was quit a bit of oil. and the car is using half a litre every 750 miles etc , though compression is fine and not smoke and full performance etc .

has anybody come across this problem before.

could i just blank it off and have a hose into a coke can (motorbike style) ??

thanks
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clio turbo
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Post by clio turbo » Sat Sep 20, 2008 5:23 pm

i would like to no also as mine is the same
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pol
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Post by pol » Sun Sep 21, 2008 8:13 am

I've done some re-routing on mine also.

My crankcase breather is now venting to atmosphere via a small filter i bought on ebay (the oil seems to be eating the rubber on it though so probably wont last too long) and the manifold is blanked.

The other valve that lived nearby and connects to the idle valve has been replaced with a re-circ valve for a turbo which should be a fair bit stronger.

pol

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eEm
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Post by eEm » Sun Sep 21, 2008 7:32 pm

Oil separator for crankcase breather is £10 from Volvo, should be part of the servicing schedule but isn't. I've had to replace them on all my secondhand cars.

You can't have your crankcase breather venting to the atmosphere, the acids etc that form in the crankcase are dangerous, not to mention emissions.

It will probably never happen but one day you might get a few molecules of the wrong stuff on your skin and then you're having your arm amputated!

Sorry to be shitty, late night.

But I am serious.

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Last edited by eEm on Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:05 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by bbf » Sun Sep 21, 2008 10:43 pm

where is that Carbon canister located?
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Post by felyx » Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:24 am

the carbon canister is located in the driver front wing/ bumper area which is not what i,m on about as some ranting wally burger seemed to miss , if you knew about tuning motorbikes you might realise what i was asking, and still dos'nt resolve the question of how to check my spring valve on my crankcase breather / firetrap !!!! which is sending oil into my turbo intake which was my original question.
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Post by eEm » Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:54 pm

"Post erased due to sheer embarrassment"
Last edited by eEm on Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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pol
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Post by pol » Mon Sep 22, 2008 3:21 pm

You can't have your fucking crankcase breather venting to the atmosphere, the acids etc that form in the crankcase are dangerous, thats why theres a carbon collector on your car.
Righto... Can you explain this rather than going off on one please? Obviously dangerous = bad, but I didn't think it was doing much harm..
The round thing with the foam jacket on your cylinder block that allows your crankcase to breath is full of charcoal
Are you sure about that? I also thought the charcoal canister is near one of the front arches but have never seen it. Just looked like another broken valve to me. My guess is that the valve in the jacket is just that, but at vacuum / idle, it's sucked in to the manifold which is also connected to this carbon filter... In any case, why would you want this being sucked through your turbo?!


pol

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Post by pol » Mon Sep 22, 2008 3:36 pm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve
...The oil is then either burnt during combustion or settles along the intake tract, causing a gradual build-up of residue inside the inlet path. For this reason many engine tuners choose to replace the PCV system with an oil catch can and breather filter which vents the blow-by gases directly to atmosphere and retains the oil in a small tank (or returns it to the sump), although this technically fails to meet most engine emission legislation.
So the venting to atmosphere / catch can may fail MOT (mine hasn't yet) but surely avoiding the gunk is a good thing.

pol

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Post by rgreenhalf » Mon Sep 22, 2008 4:08 pm

I thought the thing under the foam was just an oil seperator to remove oil from the air and drain it back to sump?
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Post by eEm » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:37 pm

Sorry Pol I didn't mean to go off on one, I shall amend my post.

If your MoT guy spots it venting to atmosphere he has to fail it on emissions as the blow by should be re-burnt. Kastners Volvo call it a carbon canister but I think you are right RG, in the parts book its refered to as an oil separator.

The one from my mk2 B20F was full of charcoal chips soaked in oil, I don't see why it would be any different on a turbo as the part number is the same.
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Post by felyx » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:39 pm

as i said chaps the metal friptrap/crankcase breather cover in foam also used on 700 series is not bleeping charcoal cannister what a drongo . anyway any help with my original problem please ??? i.e how to test the spring valve .

cheers. and please Eermm read the question in future , just like mine about will this clutch fit , you totally missed the point there aswell etc,

cheers all.


P.S THE FRIKKIN FUEL FILTER IS UNDERNEATH THE FRIKKIN CAR AND THE CHARCOAL CANNISTER STOPS UNUSED FUEL ESCAPING INTO THE ATMOSPHERE BY TRAPPING AND RECIRCULATING IT!!!!!
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eEm
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Post by eEm » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:56 pm

So why is the thing in the front wing called a filter? you normally have 3/4/5fuel filters do you not? And yes they probably are all carbon filled canisters.

And now I've ripped the new oil separator off the car its not full of carbon like the old one, SO YES YOU ARE RIGHT ABOUT THAT ALSO!! I'll go and have a trofy made for you shall I ;)

But as for the clutch question, I think I answered that, seeing as I don't know when your car was produced I told you the clutch was the smaller type to fit the mk1 turbo flyweel.
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felyx
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Post by felyx » Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:02 pm

the fire trap can get carbonised oil in it that turns into chips , on 700 series this makes the car stall at traffic lights . so its just hardened carbonised solid oil chips in there.

soaking it in a small bucket of petrol loosens the crud and then some banging and screw driver probing get the crud out
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eEm
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Post by eEm » Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:10 pm

I bow to your superior knowledge on the subject and apologise :D
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felyx
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Post by felyx » Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:16 pm

apologies excepted, but we all know things other people don't and that is how the forum works and why we share info and ask questions :D :D
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eEm
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Post by eEm » Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:32 pm

Absolutely.

So how would you like your trofy?
Gold, silver or bronze? light/dark wood?

Have you sorted the problem?
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pol
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Post by pol » Mon Sep 22, 2008 7:24 pm

eEm - No worries. But if it is unsafe i'd like to know about this acid stuff. I might replace the valve some time but i think its a rubbish design and will break again.

Felyx I think there's a few answers in this thread. Remove the valve from the foam cover and it should be fairly obvious if it's broken. It's the plastic bit that fixes to the oil sep on the engine block that snaps off.

Or use a coke can or something!

pol

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eEm
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Post by eEm » Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:08 pm

Well you know that most oils solvents etc found in a car are carcinogenic with prolonged exposure, but then you also get bi products like acids that are formed at high temp when oils, solvents, plastics and rubber are burnt.

The worst one is formed when rubber components degrade and get burnt, can't remember the name of it but its an acid and it will react with certain chemicals in your skin and continually eat away at you, cause cancers etc until you get it removed. Usually involves amputation from what I understand. Firemen used to get it the worst because they have to extinguish burning cars.

Its rare these days as the materials that can produce these chemicals aren't allowed in car production anymore but its always possible the 480 contains alot of them. So you don't want to be venting vapour from the sump and coating your engine bay in oil and god-knows-what. But like I said you might get lucky.
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Post by felyx » Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:54 am

POL i mean the spring loaded valve , my plastic couplings are not broken , like you would test a themostat in boiling water etc , where should connect an air line to the valve to check as i suspect that my valve is staying open to much etc. because on turbo's the valve also goes to the turbo inlet directly.

when my mates used to tune up kawker motorbike engines z1000's etc they would disconnect the emmissions crankcase breather and have a tube going into a coke can to stop that throwing in oil.

So all i need to know is how do we test the spring valve inside the plastic that connects to the firetrap/crankcase breather??

cheers all
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