Volvo 480 Club Europe

frenchfries wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:46 am

Am I missing something here, are these diagrams freely available somewhere?

They're generated by in-house Volvo software. If there's something specific that you're looking for then send me a PM.

Alternatively, the 480 parts book can be downloaded from the main club website. It is illustrated and I have found it very useful on quite a number of occasions.

any body found a source of item 70 in teh above image?

most appear to be 'sold out'

so alternatives are looking like a plan, ie what dimensions are the height and the distance between bolt mounts?

They've joined the ever increasing list of unobtainium.

I thought I'd got the last UK ones. Turns out the eBay seller was simply a drop shipper, and that Febi Bilstein don't have the most accurate stock computers...

I think Brinkie may be looking into remanufacture, but they're not going to be cheap.

Find VIDA 2014D on the interwebs. The 480 isn't very well documented in VIDA because the Volvo workshops don't see those cars very often, but you can see exploded view drawings like these.

To be honest, I have completely forgotten about this thread. I did find an original Volvo mount, new and unused, from a German seller who only accepted bank transfer. No English, no PayPal. To cut a long story short, there is a Volvo 480 in the UK back on the road with a genuine Volvo engine mount. and it isn't Alan's The bright side: it went into the hands of someone knowledgeable and enthusiast, having a 440, 460 and 480 restored to its full glory.

About the rear mounts, I have heard they are costing $19 each to remanufacture in China, if you buy 1,000 of them. The sticker on the engine mount said "Made in Czech Republic", I wonder which factory that must have been, Continental and TRW have plants there.

There is an online store from Poland that sells engine mounts made out of polyurethane. They have the front one and the rear-horseshoe type:
https://www.volvofan.pl/Poduszka-skrzyn ... p2605.html
https://www.volvofan.pl/Poduszka-skrzyn ... p4492.html
You need to return the old one after purchase.

Unfortunately, they don’t seem to have the rear mount of the newer type. Also, these polyurethane mounts may not perform as good as the original oil ones, but they will still be better than nothing

if i had a gash unit i could get PU moulded fairly easily, just need a unit to copy!!!

The company I work for makes PU parts in another location

but to be honest if I'd known how worn mine was I'd have just fitted an old style sub-frame and an old style mount, rather than cutting & shutting

Alan 480 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:40 am

if i had a gash unit i could get PU moulded fairly easily, just need a unit to copy!!!

Might be able to help with that, depending on where the cut-off point between 'gash' and 'totally bolloxed' lies. See this post for an idea of what my old one looks like.

Ade has also suggested that he could help with this, might be worth getting in touch with him too.

Any ideas on how a mount made from solid PU would perform vs an oil-filled one?

Jaster wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:20 pm

Any ideas on how a mount made from solid PU would perform vs an oil-filled one?

I found the answer on the interwebs

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... s-and-Cons

In short: the car feels less refined, but at speed you have a much more solid feel.

What about fitting a grease nipple and fill it with grease or some other suitable fluid

Jaster wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:20 pm

Alan 480 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:40 am

if i had a gash unit i could get PU moulded fairly easily, just need a unit to copy!!!

Might be able to help with that, depending on where the cut-off point between 'gash' and 'totally bolloxed' lies. See this post for an idea of what my old one looks like.

Ade has also suggested that he could help with this, might be worth getting in touch with him too.

Any ideas on how a mount made from solid PU would perform vs an oil-filled one?

can you measure hole spacing and height, initial plan is to 'modify' front, due to time-frame (lack-of); then look at getting alternatives made

Alan 480 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:03 pm

can you measure hole spacing and height, initial plan is to 'modify' front, due to time-frame (lack-of); then look at getting alternatives made

Will do. Haven't got it to hand right now so give me a couple of days.

Success (of sorts)

for info

distance between the mounting holes is approx 129mm, one hole is slotted

overall height when assembled is 90mm.

here is how i fixed mine . . . . .

I cut the side from a piece of 50mm box section, leaving 3mm each edge, 30mm wide with an 8mm hole in centre. about 6mm corners chopped off and radiused

45mm long 8mm bolt pushed through the steel then with fairy liquid (and some choice language) managed to get it inside the mount and bolted it to the ally plate (mine was just 'dis-bonded' ) I'd cut a slot into end of the bolt so I could tighten it but a longer bolt might have been easier? ie cut excess off afterwards?

once pulled up tight i locked it in place with a half nut I'd used a clinch nut and then felt the half nut gave me belt & braces.

mind you getting the mount out was a PITA. I couldn't get enough leverage to slacken the 15mm AF nut on top of mount so resorted to removing the whole steel bracket with remains of mount.

to do this i dropped rear of subframe down to end of the nuts, biggest issue was that the bolts holding the mount in went in from exhaust side so had to split exhaust joint (which I'd just got gas-tight) to wriggle the bottom bolt out. on re-assembly I put it in from gear-box side. still a fight to get the steel work out/in past the various obstructions. Wish I'd done it when sub-frame was off.

to hold engine up I put a section of 3" box across top of pillars and cargo strap around back edge of inlet manifold to keep the back edge up .


so to sum up, maybe the EASIEST option is to use the likes of a ford mount, (as here https://www.tickover.co.uk/shop/content ... p1000.html) putting a M10 nut hard against EACH side of the steel plate of the mount then simply bolting it onto the existing pressed ally plate?

I reckon ally plate is 20+mm deep, the engine mounts are about 55-60mm thick so a pair of nuts will bring overall height to the 90mm required.

note that the welding and flange drops down on near side so need a spacer anyway to get clearance.

the hole in mounting bracket is 'generous' nearer 14mm than 12mm