I was originally writing this myself, and it was becoming a lot longer than my definition of brief, then Edd turned up, and added some things I forgot, mainly because I usually do particular jobs, and he does others- like changing fuel pumps.
Anyway, Its quite long now, so I thought I would put it here for all to be able to read and use
Copy and paste from word document, which I can E-mail if anyone would like it.
TURBO CONVERSION
Do not rely on this to be 100% exhaustive, its been a year since we did this last, and its harder to remember when you are not actually doing it!
Right, first of all have you seen my little website?
http://hometown.aol.co.uk/chrisdriver245/volvo480.html
There’s a section there about the turbo conversion....1 year later I still haven't got the totally finished picture on yet!!
Actions on the spares car
1) Remove the wiring loom:
a) Disconnect each plug in the engine bay in turn. If you think you will have trouble remembering where they go, then label them as you disconnect them. Remember the 2 earths on the lifting eye, and the earth on the top of the gearbox, also the earth by the coil. Remove the plugs from the lambda sensor if you have one.
b) Remove the 2 ECU's inside the car, and unplug the wiring loom from the car loom (red connector, usually!) put the ECU’s somewhere safe.
c) Inside the engine bay, unclip the ties holding the loom in place.
d) Unplug the loom from the +ve lead from the battery. The part connected to the battery will come with the engine.
e) You will probably need to remove the washer bottle etc to get the loom out.
f) On the bulkhead, where the loom enters the car, slacken off the large plastic nut about 2 turns. You will not be able to take it off, just slacken it…..now, back inside the car, find the same point, and remove the metal clip from the wire assembly by sliding it away from the loom.
g) Now gently push/pull/jiggle the connectors/relays etc through from inside the car to outside. This is not easy! Get an assistant to help. Be gentle not to damage the wires as this is easily done on the sharp metal hole.
h) Put the loom someplace safe.
i) If the donor is a pre 92(ish!) car, then remove the water pump timer relay (2nd tall one) from the triangular relay box. Keep it safe.
j) Remove the ignition coil, and the boost control solenoid on the bulkhead – be very gentle with this, the plastic pipes can snap off. We would recommend that you cut the silicone pipes (red, black and white) and replace as often they are worn on other pipes. Snip the metal clips, after the solenoid and engine is removed. (Note where the coloured pipes went to- it is very important!).
2) Dashboard
a) Remove the turbo gauge pod. Store it safely.
b) Remove the speedo housing, and take the small PCB for the info centre off the back. Keep this safe too.
3) Remove the Fuel pump
a) Remove rear seats, centre console etc, and unplug the wiring.
b) Unscrew and remove the fuel pump…sounds easy, sometimes isn’t! Unscrew the retainer and turn the pump 90` degrees and gently remove- careful not to damage the level! Refit the pump with grease on the seal, makes life a lot easier! You need to research what size the tank is. If both are 48 ltr or both are the later bigger 61 ltr tanks then there lies no problem. If the tanks are different then the pump will need to be changed on the assembly, otherwise it will not fit correctly… We had to do this on Chris’s conversion as he had an earlier tank and a later donor car.
4) Remove engine
Follow the Haynes book of lies for this, some pointers:
a) Remove Airbox/MAF, all pipes, battery tray etc.
b) Take off the lights and nose cone and remove the Intercooler and pipe work.
c) If lifting engine, loosen driveshaft nuts. Jack the car up, drain gearbox and engine oil, and antifreeze
d) Remove pipes going to heater matrix.
e) Remove radiator, and the fan, the fan can get in the way. You will need the rad as it is bigger on the turbo.
f) If lifting engine, remove driveshafts.
g) Remove exhaust downpipe and exhaust.
h) Undo engine mounts etc and lift engine out.
(Notice what we’ve done here? We removed all the stuff from the donor car first = practice, if you mess this up, your proper car still has a useful engine etc in it….that could all change next however!)
Actions on recipient car
1) Remove Wiring loom and ECU – same process as above.
2) Remove storage bin/oil pressure/voltmeter pod.
3) Remove dash and take off small PCB
4) Take out the fuel pump- as above
5) Remove the engine – same method as you used to take the replacement one out.
6) Very carefully drill the rivets and remove the Vin plate. Move it to the same position as it is on the Turbo donor car. I.e drill and rivet
7) Remove the metal clips that the rad retainers bolt into on the donor car and press into the appropriate holes on your car.
Fit the fuel pump from the turbo car, having compared that they are the same. Don’t worry if the actual pump looks smaller as later ones got reduced in size.9) Fit wiring loom and ECU’s – this is the reverse of what you did to remove it…use new cable ties as necessary- you will not be able to connect it to battery terminal at this time.
a) Now you will need to connect the engine loom to the car – this usually involves a small amount of trial and error!
b) Connect matching colours together, if there is more than one wire inside the car of the same colour, you will have to try them one at a time, or, use the electrical diagrams on dragons site and work out which it should be. But remember that nothing to do with a volvo’s electrics is ever 100% standard or accurate! There are 5 wires on the turbo loom, and between 6 and 15(!) on the ES looms. (Yipee!)
c) Fit the small PCB you took from the turbo car, to the back of your speedo housing. Refit this.
d) Fit the boost gauge pod. Run some vacuum hosing to it down towards the boost ECU, fit a T-piece in the hosing (from donor car) run a short piece to the boost ECU port, and then a much longer piece into the engine bay and connect it to one of the vacuum ports.
e) Create wiring loom for the electric water pump, if car is pre 92-ish – pull off the diagram from the electrical diagrams and copy this. Use a spare hole in the relay box, and insulate your wires properly and route them with the engine wiring loom
f) Create wiring loom for the crankcase ventilation breather hose heater. Basically take a feed from a fuse circuit that is live when the ignition key is in position 2, and route it through the thermistor.
g) If the starter motor heat shielding has lost its silver foil, a good tip is to double up some tin foil and drill and pop rivet it on. The Turbo gets very hot!
h) Another thing to consider is the carbon canister. If this is fitted to your car it must be plumped on to the turbo engine to pass an MOT.
10) Put in new engine (yay!)
a) I would recommend fitting a new cambelt, and especially a new clutch before you put the engine in…you don’t want to have to do the clutch once its in there, trust me! Actually, if you are not definitely 100% sure about doing the cambelt, do it once you have the car running, that way you know it won’t be your cambelt fitting that is stopping it from starting.
b) Whilst you are doing the clutch, look at the release arm, as detailed in the haynes manual. i.e. there is a short one, or long one, which has a bracket bolted to the gearbox. These are matched to a specific length pedal, and if you were to fit a short release arm gearbox to a long release arm pedal, you will overstretch the diaphragm spring on the clutch pressure plate. If possible, fit the long type release arm and pedal to your new car, rather than the shorter one. The longer one is a later design, and makes changing the clutch cable/pedal bolt much much easier. **remember to check this, you will not be able to change it without removing the gearbox!**
c) Drop in and secure engine mounts – position rear mount BEFORE lowering engine in.
d) Refit the turbo radiator (larger) reconnect the coolant pipes – remember the electric water pump, and the heater matrix pipes. Heat insulation on the matrix pipes is advised.
e) Fit the intercooler, and the intercooler pipes.
f) Connect up the wiring loom to all the relevant sensors etc.
g) Fit the coil and solenoid – make sure the pipes are connected correctly, and again, be gentle!
h) Connect the wiring loom to the battery terminal (you’ll need that!)
i) Check all the pipes are done up, fit a new Volvo oil filter and fill the engine with oil and antifreeze.
j) Fit the driveshafts. Use new roll pin *if your car has ABS, you will need to use the driveshafts with the ABS sensor teeth on them*
k) Fill the gearbox with the correct oil (cost approx £30 UKP). The filler is on the front, it is advisable to loosen it with the engine out! Fill the oil with a suitable bit of pipe and a funnel poked on the end. This takes ages!
l) Check, and recheck all connections, pipes vacuum hoses, etc etc etc.
m) Fit some new spark plugs. If staying standard for the time being, NGK BPR6ES.
n) Fit the battery tray, MAF sensor and air box etc.
o) Note the exhaust is not connected yet – there is a reason for this, nor is the coil!
p) Check everything again.
q) Turn on ignition, let the info centre check everything.
r) Turn the engine on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out.
s) NOW reconnect the coil.
t) Check it all again!!
u) Evacuate bowels, take deep breath, attempt to start engine.
v) If it starts, it will be loud! It may also run a little roughly. Open the doors of your garage – do not gas yourself.
w) Let the engine idle for a time – check for oil/coolant/gearbox oil leaks.
x) Allow the engine to warm up, then switch off and check the coolant and oil levels.
y) Now Fit the exhaust (allow manifold to cool) the reason you are doing it now you have had the car running is you will need it running to cure the sealant- if you fitted it first and then it wouldn’t start, you’d be a bit stuck.
z) Drop car to ground, check torques of all bolts etc.
11)
a) If the car didn’t start, check the wiring between the car and engine loom – remember the same coloured wires? Try swapping them and try again.
b) The car may start on the starter, then die when the key is released. This can be because the wire from position II is not connected to the engine loom, but the rest are.
c) It may take a bit of thinking and working out to get the car started – especially at 2am lol!
12) Got it started and checked and down on the ground etc?
13) Check the rev counter, boost gauge, and engine/oil temperature readouts all work
14) Now let’s see if it can move under its own steam! Gently move the car backwards and forwards in first/reverse. Listen for hideous grinding noises!
15) Venture out onto the road, preferably when it is quiet. Take your mobile phone with you and tell someone where you are going.
16) Drive gently with no boost for a couple of miles, listen for nasty noises, look for any steam rising etc.
17) Keep an eye on the oil/engine temp gauges. Once all warmed up, try a little boost.
18) Watch the boost guage. It should rise into the yellow (don’t cane it yet!)
19) After a couple of boosted accelerations, the car should be running smoothly, because the ECU should have learned about the engine.
20) Pull over, check water levels etc, the try some harder boost.
21) Enjoy the turbo whistle, and the kick in the back.
22) Maybe carry some spare oil and antifreeze with you for a few days.
23) We would recommend leaving the engine standard for a month say, to ensure all is running well, and any niggles to surface and be corrected. That way you know its’ not a recent mod that’s done it.
24) Hope this helps,
Chris and Edd.
for you!
Edd.
