Home made induction kit that works

For those of you not faint of heart, who believe the Volvo 480 should have more torque and horsepower, find all you need to know in here.

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LIP
480 Newbie
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:06 pm

Home made induction kit that works

Post by LIP » Thu Dec 25, 2008 6:15 pm

Hi to All
I've been a 480 owner for 4 years now & have had to do the usual repairs that a 480 needs B18E 1989/90, non cat.
I was lucky enough to pick one up with only 20,000 genuine miles on the clock with a nice torquey engine but swapped the front bumper for one from a turbo & resprayed it, & resprayed the rear bumper for colour coded bumpers. I also swapped the seats for half leather ones, door trims & rear speakers, & modified the grill with mesh.
While I was changing the front end I constructed my own induction system using the original air box. The car breathes much better & I've noticed it pulls away a bit quick though I also put in Bosch super4's WR78 & some decent HT leads.
Anyway I bought a few metres of induction tubing from a local car shop & then if you remove the battery & it's tray you can see the stock box & standard intake pipe which is sort of S shaped. Pop up the headlights & remove the nose cone & the plastic under-tray.
If my memory serves me right this is a push on pull off type so it's easy to attach your new induction tube to the original air box using plastic ties..
You can feed the new induction tubing up from under the front grill up towards the back of the passenger side pop up light where you'll see the hole that that the original induction pipe is supposed to suck it's air from.
Feed the new induction tubing through this hole & then it's easy to to get it to the bottom of the air intake box. If your original tubing was moulded to the intake box then cut it 2 to 3 inches away from the box to give you something to attach your new induction tubing to & secure with ties.
Once you've got the tubing all in place you can cut it at grill level & you'll have to find a way of attaching it to your grill to allow the air to flow into the tube.
What I did was to cut the original plastic induction pipe, down to about 6 inches at length either side of a bend in the pipe. I then put one end of this into the end of the induction tubing about 2 inches, marked it, took it out & beyond this mark I cut along it's diameter to make half a pipe, which with the bend in it, made a sort of scoop.
I put 4 small holes in each corner & fed plastic cable ties through them & then glued this in with something like evostic or mastic & once dried, the scoop was placed flat against the grill & secured in place with the cable ties.
This then gives a bigger area for the air to hit against & be forced up the induction tubing & it works, over 2000 rpm I get a nice subtle throaty growl.
I've done a few other things I'll post later
LIP

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esta
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Post by esta » Thu Dec 25, 2008 8:44 pm

Get some more psots under your belt (min of 10!) and post some pics, will be interesting to see!

Nice one! ;)
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a_hornett
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Post by a_hornett » Fri Dec 26, 2008 6:49 pm

sounds like a CAF to me? Be interested to know if it makes a lot of difference too

LIP
480 Newbie
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:06 pm

Post by LIP » Fri Dec 26, 2008 8:02 pm

Don't wish to sound like a dipstick but what's psots
I know it sounds a bit of a bodge but it's dirt cheap & once it's all rigged in, no one sees it.
I also slightly widened the intake on the throttle body.
And no it doesn't make alot of difference just a tad more responsive & smoother acceleration, maybe a few more BHP but you're not gonna get large BHP improvements without spending a ton of money tho' the B18E engine is pretty good from stock.
I'll try & get some pics when the weather brightens up, I've got some more resparaying to do this summer as the rear arches are starting to rust again.
I'm thinking of making some rear fibreglass arches & maybe some other bits & pieces like side skirts later in the 2009 as I used to work in design & construction.
Originally just for my own car but if there's enough interest from others I might go the whole hog & make some proper moulds.
One little tip, I had the usual speedo instrument unit problem that many people suffer with & I removed the unit & resoldered all the joints on the transistor board & voila, fixed.
Just gotta get that damn knocking noise from the rear of the car sorted, everytime I go over a bump, no matter how small, anyone had that problem & found the cure?
Happy Holidays
LIP

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aibast
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Post by aibast » Fri Dec 26, 2008 8:15 pm

check the exhaust hangers in the rear. As the pipes go over a metal beam in the back. Mine is hitting there a little some times ( I have 2,5" one also :p
1996 850R 2.0 T5 - "Beebi R"
1994 480 Turbo - RichMod - sold to get the R
1992 850 2,5 20V - sold to get the R
1987 744 TIC - Haas Tuning - totaled by BMW
1973 142 GL B20E - sold

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glasgowjim
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Post by glasgowjim » Fri Dec 26, 2008 8:41 pm

a richmod will stick 50BHP on your turbo - massive difference without cosing the earth.

LIP
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Post by LIP » Fri Dec 26, 2008 10:19 pm

Sorry mines not a turbo
& yeah checked the exhaust already though it comes more from the drivers side rear, I'll investigate more in warmer weather, maybe some peroshed rubber or faulty/loose shock, though it's always sailed through mots.

LIP
480 Newbie
Posts: 48
Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:06 pm

Post by LIP » Fri Dec 26, 2008 10:21 pm

ok, i'm a dipstick, it's a mis spelling, thought it was some code or abreviation, i'm new on here.

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