Crankshaft / Crank Sensor - how to - with pics
Moderators: jifflemon, coyote1980, Rachel
Crankshaft / Crank Sensor - how to - with pics
Crankshaft Sensor (CS)
I know this is another very basic job, but this one could be seen as the sequal to the Idle Control Valve how to
Function / Purpose
The purpose of the Crankshaft Sensor (CS) is to monitor the position or rotational speed of the crankshaft. This information is used by engine management systems to control ignition system timing and other engine parameters. Before electronic crank sensors were available, the distributor would have to be manually adjusted to a timing mark on the engine.
Crank sensors in engines usually consist of magnets and an inductive coil, or they may be based on magnetically triggered Hall effect semiconductor devices. Common mounting locations include the main crank pulley, the flywheel, and occasionally on the crankshaft itself.
Reasons for Cleaning
Over time, the CS can become clogged with dirt and so impedes its ability to function as required. It has been said to members of the forum by mechanics and RAC that this is a ‘weak part’ on Renault engines and so is directly relevant to us.
Things you will need
Flat head screw driver
11mm socket with LONG (20cm) extension
Thin fingers
Steal Wool + old toothbrush
A wee tub oh hot soapy water
Disposable gloves (optional, but worth it!)
Estimated time (excluding cleaning time)
Beginner - - - - 30 mins
Expert - - - - - - 10 mins
Location
The CS is located on the side of the engine block (right) a wee bit below the distributor cap.
Removal
Step 1: remove the air intake box (where the air filter is housed).
Step 2: using the flat headed screw driver, loosen the jubilee clip and remove the rubber hosing which leads into the inlet manifold. (be sure not to let anything go inside the inlet manifold)
Step 3: using the flat headed screw driver, loosen the jubilee clip and remove the rubber hosing at the other end of the inlet manifold hose.
Step 4: remove the wire connector plug (no need to disconnect the battery)
Step 5: use the 11mm socket and extension to remove the two bolts either side of the CS.
Setp 6: remove the CS from the engine bay.
Cleaning
Again, there will be various ways to do this, but I used some steal wool, a toothbrush and some hot soapy water. Be sure not to get the water in the connector.
Drying
Make sure the CS is completely dry.
Reassembly
The reverse of removal
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---
I hope this is of help. If there is anything I’ve missed out, or you think would be beneficial to add in, give me a shout and I’ll edit it in.
Good luck!
(Disclaimer: I did this How-To to help. I am in no way an expert and should only be used as information. I take no responsibility if any of the information I have given is wrong.)
I know this is another very basic job, but this one could be seen as the sequal to the Idle Control Valve how to
Function / Purpose
The purpose of the Crankshaft Sensor (CS) is to monitor the position or rotational speed of the crankshaft. This information is used by engine management systems to control ignition system timing and other engine parameters. Before electronic crank sensors were available, the distributor would have to be manually adjusted to a timing mark on the engine.
Crank sensors in engines usually consist of magnets and an inductive coil, or they may be based on magnetically triggered Hall effect semiconductor devices. Common mounting locations include the main crank pulley, the flywheel, and occasionally on the crankshaft itself.
Reasons for Cleaning
Over time, the CS can become clogged with dirt and so impedes its ability to function as required. It has been said to members of the forum by mechanics and RAC that this is a ‘weak part’ on Renault engines and so is directly relevant to us.
Things you will need
Flat head screw driver
11mm socket with LONG (20cm) extension
Thin fingers
Steal Wool + old toothbrush
A wee tub oh hot soapy water
Disposable gloves (optional, but worth it!)
Estimated time (excluding cleaning time)
Beginner - - - - 30 mins
Expert - - - - - - 10 mins
Location
The CS is located on the side of the engine block (right) a wee bit below the distributor cap.
Removal
Step 1: remove the air intake box (where the air filter is housed).
Step 2: using the flat headed screw driver, loosen the jubilee clip and remove the rubber hosing which leads into the inlet manifold. (be sure not to let anything go inside the inlet manifold)
Step 3: using the flat headed screw driver, loosen the jubilee clip and remove the rubber hosing at the other end of the inlet manifold hose.
Step 4: remove the wire connector plug (no need to disconnect the battery)
Step 5: use the 11mm socket and extension to remove the two bolts either side of the CS.
Setp 6: remove the CS from the engine bay.
Cleaning
Again, there will be various ways to do this, but I used some steal wool, a toothbrush and some hot soapy water. Be sure not to get the water in the connector.
Drying
Make sure the CS is completely dry.
Reassembly
The reverse of removal
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---
I hope this is of help. If there is anything I’ve missed out, or you think would be beneficial to add in, give me a shout and I’ll edit it in.
Good luck!
(Disclaimer: I did this How-To to help. I am in no way an expert and should only be used as information. I take no responsibility if any of the information I have given is wrong.)
Current:
Honda Civic ES I-VTEC
previous:
BMW E46 330i SE Touring
VW Mk4 Golf V6 4Motion
Toyota Celica GT-FOUR ST205 WRC
1995 (M) Dark Grey Metallic 480 Turbo
1994 (M) Flame Red Metallic 480GT
1992 (J) Black Metallic 480ES 1.7i
Honda Civic ES I-VTEC
previous:
BMW E46 330i SE Touring
VW Mk4 Golf V6 4Motion
Toyota Celica GT-FOUR ST205 WRC
1995 (M) Dark Grey Metallic 480 Turbo
1994 (M) Flame Red Metallic 480GT
1992 (J) Black Metallic 480ES 1.7i
- martinholmesuk
- Friend of Club 480 Europe
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- Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 9:43 pm
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yeah, it's got a cold air feed under it, but been 'in the process' of making a cold air box for AGES now ... just figuring out the mountings! At the stage where i'm thinking of just going back to standard now.martinholmesuk wrote:that air filter is sucking in hot air and screwing things up.
Current:
Honda Civic ES I-VTEC
previous:
BMW E46 330i SE Touring
VW Mk4 Golf V6 4Motion
Toyota Celica GT-FOUR ST205 WRC
1995 (M) Dark Grey Metallic 480 Turbo
1994 (M) Flame Red Metallic 480GT
1992 (J) Black Metallic 480ES 1.7i
Honda Civic ES I-VTEC
previous:
BMW E46 330i SE Touring
VW Mk4 Golf V6 4Motion
Toyota Celica GT-FOUR ST205 WRC
1995 (M) Dark Grey Metallic 480 Turbo
1994 (M) Flame Red Metallic 480GT
1992 (J) Black Metallic 480ES 1.7i
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- 480 Newbie
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- Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2007 6:56 am
- martinholmesuk
- Friend of Club 480 Europe
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- Location: West Sussex
- Dan the 480 Man
- 480 Is my middle name
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- Location: No longer in a Volvo...(But not forever!)
- Contact:
No it isn't. The bonnets openmartinholmesuk wrote:that air filter is sucking in hot air and screwing things up.
I like the 'historical' info at the start-a good opener so people know what it is you're on about. Nice to see some new 'How To' guides. Good one to cover too-mine caused me severe problems-breaking down in the middle of the town centre-then i spent the whole of the following day trying to figure out what it was, then found it to be that!
I actually think my car fired alot easier after it was removed and cleaned up too. Good pics aswell, difficult bugger to get to!
Good work
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And why is there an intercooler on a Turbo engine and not on a non turbo engine??? Because the Turbo heats the air up snce it is driven by te exhoust fumes, heating the whole turbo.martinholmesuk wrote:intercooler to cool the air from outside which is cooler then inside the bay so I expect it's a good idea to have a cold feed like the standard volvo intake.
So with a intercooled turbo engine it is not that big a problem, non intercooled ones on the other hand...
belive it or not, thats the advice i was given ages ago ... but i wanted to hear the ace sound!Volvo480lover wrote:Go back standard and widen the intake of that box + install a K&N filter.
glad someone knows what i'm talking about ... i just copied and pasted good old wikipedia!Dan the 480 Man wrote: I like the 'historical' info at the start-a good opener so people know what it is you're on about.
Current:
Honda Civic ES I-VTEC
previous:
BMW E46 330i SE Touring
VW Mk4 Golf V6 4Motion
Toyota Celica GT-FOUR ST205 WRC
1995 (M) Dark Grey Metallic 480 Turbo
1994 (M) Flame Red Metallic 480GT
1992 (J) Black Metallic 480ES 1.7i
Honda Civic ES I-VTEC
previous:
BMW E46 330i SE Touring
VW Mk4 Golf V6 4Motion
Toyota Celica GT-FOUR ST205 WRC
1995 (M) Dark Grey Metallic 480 Turbo
1994 (M) Flame Red Metallic 480GT
1992 (J) Black Metallic 480ES 1.7i
- martinholmesuk
- Friend of Club 480 Europe
- Posts: 10049
- Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 9:43 pm
- Location: West Sussex
Volvo480lover wrote:And why is there an intercooler on a Turbo engine and not on a non turbo engine??? Because the Turbo heats the air up snce it is driven by te exhoust fumes, heating the whole turbo.martinholmesuk wrote:intercooler to cool the air from outside which is cooler then inside the bay so I expect it's a good idea to have a cold feed like the standard volvo intake.
So with a intercooled turbo engine it is not that big a problem, non intercooled ones on the other hand...
Maybe you can sell piper1st your intake since you wont be needing it.
Volvo 940 Turbo 19T (real Volvo :P)
Audi TT
Audi TT
Excellent,
I think I need to go about this tomorrow evening.
After taking the engine out of my car, changing everything and doing the clutch I am getting intermittant stalling and non-starting. I am thinking the crankshaft sensor as when I wiggle the connector around and mess with the wire it seems to work again for a minute or so.
I think I need to go about this tomorrow evening.
After taking the engine out of my car, changing everything and doing the clutch I am getting intermittant stalling and non-starting. I am thinking the crankshaft sensor as when I wiggle the connector around and mess with the wire it seems to work again for a minute or so.