It sounds silly, but before you start make sure you have everything you need, it took me longer than needed because I had to go out and get bits and pieces. Things not always in a tool kit: 27mm socket, empty coke bottle and duct tape, stretchy cv boots, lots of grease!
I got the boots for £11 each from a local motor supplies place:
I picked up a couple of new driveshaft-hub nuts from Volvo as they are suggested as single use only, the nuts are triangulated at the tops (probably to stop them coming loose!)
I made the cone to slide the boots over (as suggested in a previous thread) from a sliced up coke bottle and duct tape
this worked superbly, much better than imagined. Just slice off the top and bottom, make a flat piece of plastic, roll it into a cone and tape it up, make sure there’s no sharp edges tho. Then:
• Loosen wheelnuts
• Loosen driveshaft-hub nut (27mm socket and a B.F.L. helps)
• Jack up car, support on axle stand(s)
• Remove wheel
• Remove driveshaft nut
• Remove brake calliper (2 bolts) tie it up out of the way taking care not to stretch the flexible brake line, i found some twisted wire was fine
• Remove brake disc (1 Large Philips screw, this turned out to be a bastard on my drivers side disc and I had to drill the head off the screw, even heating with a blow-torch and the aforementioned BFL couldn’t shift it, other side was easy-peasy tho…)
• Remove the 2 suspension strut-axle carrier bolts (circled) (19mm and 16mm sockets I think)
• Allow the wishbone to drop
• Persuade the stub axle through the wheel bearing and out the other side (a small puller helped me with this but probably isn’t essential)
• Once the driveshaft is free it can be moved easily, cut the old boot and retaining clips off
• Scoop out any old grease remaining
• Grease up the cone
• Turn the new boot inside out and grease what would normally be the outside face
• Place the cone over the joint
• Slide the new boot (fat end first) over the cone, and completely over the joint
• Remove the cone
• Turn the boot the right way out (greased face now on the outside)
• Locate recess on the shaft for the narrow end of the boot and secure
• Fill the boot with grease
• Pull the large end of the boot over the joint, locate its groove and fasten it too
• Cut off extra length in fasteners
• Push wishbone down and slide the stub axle back through the wheel bearing
• Line the holes up with those on the strut and replace the bolts (I found some playing with the steering was required) tighten these bolts tight (Haynes says something like 110NM)
• Replace brake disc and calliper (reverse of removal)
• Replace driveshaft-hub nut and road wheel
• Drop the car, tighten wheelnuts and hub nut (very tight, something like 220NM – off the scale on my torque wrench!)
• Drive off safe in the knowledge that your cv joints are now lovely and lubricated!
Hopefully this helps someone, i was a little put off because i've never done it before but it was quite easy really!
:::edited to add some better pictures:::
not had that before for any of my cars!
) and it didn’t make a sound, but as soon as it was back on solid ground it started clunking like hell again 