Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
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- Started learning about 480
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat May 14, 2022 11:16 am
- Location: Bradford, West Yorks
Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
Part 1 is under ‘Secret Life’.
Despite all the documentation, there was nothing to suggest that the cambelt had ever been changed. On a 34 year old car! I did not drive it much, while most of the other problems were resolved, but it did seem rather sluggish. It was put in a local garage for a full service and cambelt change. The old belt was an aftermarket brand and looked in good condition, so clearly it had been changed before, but at least I felt confident driving the car now. I’ve covered a few hundred miles and it is comfortable and seems reliable. I still think the performance is poor, and hills are a struggle. Any suggestions out there? Or am I comparing it unfavourably with modern cars? Tickover is also a bit lumpy, especially until thoroughly warmed up, but this may be another ‘feature’ of 480s.
The interior looked pretty good, and had probably been valeted by one of the interim owners. The seat bolsters had not collapsed, and the velour showed little sign of wear. The carpets were good too, but the headlining was falling down, no doubt due to damp or over-enthusiastic valeting. A local trimmer had a look and said it was not worth fixing. Fortunately, the headlining is glued to a board, which will slide out the back of the car. It is booked in to be replaced in a few weeks time. The original headlining is very thin with a velour finish. Using a similar material would risk glue marks showing through, so the replacement will be a thicker material with a textured finish, but in a near identical colour.
Bodywork looked good but was treated to T-Cut and polish with Mer. A can of Simonez Back-to-Black made a vast difference to the bumpers. Congratulations to anyone who has read through all nine parts of this report. That’s about it – for now!
Despite all the documentation, there was nothing to suggest that the cambelt had ever been changed. On a 34 year old car! I did not drive it much, while most of the other problems were resolved, but it did seem rather sluggish. It was put in a local garage for a full service and cambelt change. The old belt was an aftermarket brand and looked in good condition, so clearly it had been changed before, but at least I felt confident driving the car now. I’ve covered a few hundred miles and it is comfortable and seems reliable. I still think the performance is poor, and hills are a struggle. Any suggestions out there? Or am I comparing it unfavourably with modern cars? Tickover is also a bit lumpy, especially until thoroughly warmed up, but this may be another ‘feature’ of 480s.
The interior looked pretty good, and had probably been valeted by one of the interim owners. The seat bolsters had not collapsed, and the velour showed little sign of wear. The carpets were good too, but the headlining was falling down, no doubt due to damp or over-enthusiastic valeting. A local trimmer had a look and said it was not worth fixing. Fortunately, the headlining is glued to a board, which will slide out the back of the car. It is booked in to be replaced in a few weeks time. The original headlining is very thin with a velour finish. Using a similar material would risk glue marks showing through, so the replacement will be a thicker material with a textured finish, but in a near identical colour.
Bodywork looked good but was treated to T-Cut and polish with Mer. A can of Simonez Back-to-Black made a vast difference to the bumpers. Congratulations to anyone who has read through all nine parts of this report. That’s about it – for now!
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
A great read, all 9 bits!
Your 480 should not be remotely sluggish so there will be something you can do. I also have a 1987 480 and it’s pretty sprightly still. Where abouts in the country are you?
Have you replaced all of the ignition components? Also, it shouldn’t be running on E10, get it on Esso super.
Early cars often end up with the wrong intake air temperature sensors and engine coolant temperature sensors in and these can affect the data to the Fuel Injection computer and this fuelling. If you take the plugs off yours, what colour is the sensor’s plastic— black or blue?
Do you still have a little potentiometer clipped to the air filter box? This adjusts the pulse length of the fuel injector’s firing. It is for CO adjustment and we’ll worth a play with to see if performance can be restored. I’ve tried all extremes on the small range and it never fails to run, just is a bit richer/leaner. I.E. don’t be scared to adjusting it after first taking a resistance reading that you can return to.
The fuel pressure regulator is also different on early cars and if replaced with one from a later car, probably wont run very nicely.
Your 480 should not be remotely sluggish so there will be something you can do. I also have a 1987 480 and it’s pretty sprightly still. Where abouts in the country are you?
Have you replaced all of the ignition components? Also, it shouldn’t be running on E10, get it on Esso super.
Early cars often end up with the wrong intake air temperature sensors and engine coolant temperature sensors in and these can affect the data to the Fuel Injection computer and this fuelling. If you take the plugs off yours, what colour is the sensor’s plastic— black or blue?
Do you still have a little potentiometer clipped to the air filter box? This adjusts the pulse length of the fuel injector’s firing. It is for CO adjustment and we’ll worth a play with to see if performance can be restored. I’ve tried all extremes on the small range and it never fails to run, just is a bit richer/leaner. I.E. don’t be scared to adjusting it after first taking a resistance reading that you can return to.
The fuel pressure regulator is also different on early cars and if replaced with one from a later car, probably wont run very nicely.
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
-
- Can tell where the 480 was built
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:08 pm
- Location: Knaresborough
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
James this seems very similar to the problems I am having with R3. Very high fuel consumption (15) mpg roughly and white smoke and a very fuel rich smell.The only difference is it’s not particularly sluggish and ticks over fine.I have replaced the ECU but has made no difference.before I start to play with it how do I tell if it has the correct pressure regulator? R3 is a 1988 1.7 na. Cheers Norman.jamescarruthers wrote: ↑Tue May 17, 2022 7:29 pmA great read, all 9 bits!
Your 480 should not be remotely sluggish so there will be something you can do. I also have a 1987 480 and it’s pretty sprightly still. Where abouts in the country are you?
Have you replaced all of the ignition components? Also, it shouldn’t be running on E10, get it on Esso super.
Early cars often end up with the wrong intake air temperature sensors and engine coolant temperature sensors in and these can affect the data to the Fuel Injection computer and this fuelling. If you take the plugs off yours, what colour is the sensor’s plastic— black or blue?
Do you still have a little potentiometer clipped to the air filter box? This adjusts the pulse length of the fuel injector’s firing. It is for CO adjustment and we’ll worth a play with to see if performance can be restored. I’ve tried all extremes on the small range and it never fails to run, just is a bit richer/leaner. I.E. don’t be scared to adjusting it after first taking a resistance reading that you can return to.
The fuel pressure regulator is also different on early cars and if replaced with one from a later car, probably wont run very nicely.
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
I think for this Norm you probably need to adjust the fuelling CO potentiometer. It should be clipped to the air filter housing but is often missing. If missing, the car runs at “default” value which is okay but not optimum. Do you still have the CO potentiometer? If so, adjust it to be more lean and see if that helps.Norm57 wrote: ↑Wed May 18, 2022 9:54 amJames this seems very similar to the problems I am having with R3. Very high fuel consumption (15) mpg roughly and white smoke and a very fuel rich smell.The only difference is it’s not particularly sluggish and ticks over fine.I have replaced the ECU but has made no difference.before I start to play with it how do I tell if it has the correct pressure regulator? R3 is a 1988 1.7 na. Cheers Norman.jamescarruthers wrote: ↑Tue May 17, 2022 7:29 pmA great read, all 9 bits!
Your 480 should not be remotely sluggish so there will be something you can do. I also have a 1987 480 and it’s pretty sprightly still. Where abouts in the country are you?
Have you replaced all of the ignition components? Also, it shouldn’t be running on E10, get it on Esso super.
Early cars often end up with the wrong intake air temperature sensors and engine coolant temperature sensors in and these can affect the data to the Fuel Injection computer and this fuelling. If you take the plugs off yours, what colour is the sensor’s plastic— black or blue?
Do you still have a little potentiometer clipped to the air filter box? This adjusts the pulse length of the fuel injector’s firing. It is for CO adjustment and we’ll worth a play with to see if performance can be restored. I’ve tried all extremes on the small range and it never fails to run, just is a bit richer/leaner. I.E. don’t be scared to adjusting it after first taking a resistance reading that you can return to.
The fuel pressure regulator is also different on early cars and if replaced with one from a later car, probably wont run very nicely.
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
Also, you may have a leaking fuel injector. I’ve sent all of mine on early cars off for cleaning and checking which brought better idling and piece of mind that they weren’t dripping more fuel in than they are meant to
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
-
- Started learning about 480
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat May 14, 2022 11:16 am
- Location: Bradford, West Yorks
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
Thanks for the compliments and advice. Well done reading all 9 parts! My chassis is 513546, so not quite as old as James's. I am based in Bradford, West Yorks. It would be nice to meet another owner some time, I can't remember the last time I saw another 480.
I have been using E5 (Super), but the DVLA website says E10 should be ok in Volvos of this era. However, I have heard that despite the extra cost per litre for E5, it can work out cheaper per mile due to improved economy.
Regarding the various suggestions, no, I've not checked these. I need to take a deep breath before changing anything in the engine compartment. For now it is running, and I don't want to immobilise it on the drive and trap the kit-car in the garage too! I don't know what mpg I am getting, but I have not noticed a smell of fuel, so maybe not the same as Norman's problem.
I have been using E5 (Super), but the DVLA website says E10 should be ok in Volvos of this era. However, I have heard that despite the extra cost per litre for E5, it can work out cheaper per mile due to improved economy.
Regarding the various suggestions, no, I've not checked these. I need to take a deep breath before changing anything in the engine compartment. For now it is running, and I don't want to immobilise it on the drive and trap the kit-car in the garage too! I don't know what mpg I am getting, but I have not noticed a smell of fuel, so maybe not the same as Norman's problem.
-
- Can tell where the 480 was built
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:08 pm
- Location: Knaresborough
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
Thanks for the input James,I have considered injector cleaning as last resort.Davekit there are a few of us in Yorkshire,at least two in Leeds,a couple in Hull,I am in Knaresborough and at least two others in the York area.
-
- Started learning about 480
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat May 14, 2022 11:16 am
- Location: Bradford, West Yorks
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
I've carried out an initial investigation on James's suggestions, but no firm conclusions yet, maybe you can advise further.
Ignition components - only new plugs fitted.
Referring to the parts document, p202-3 shows various sensors, numbered 9, 30, 25, 39, 28, 29. #25 looks to be the air temperature sensor, in the trunking from the air filter box, and is blue with the numbers 89-235 1537-1 on it. These do not match the Volvo numbers (3418122-2 for my car) and are presumably the makers (Bosch?) identification.
I am not sure where the coolant temperature sensor is located. The only item listed specifically as a temperature sensor is #29. The only thing that looks like a sensor on my engine block is just to the left (looking from the front) of the oil filter, and is white with a single white wire to it. I wonder if this is for the temperature gauge?
The potentiometer #26 is present but the so-called plug #27 is absent, there is just a hole in the side of the potentiometer. Is this what is used for adjustment, as there does not seem to be anything else? Resistance is 2.16k ohms. Two wires - green/brown and white/green with a sleeve round them with 002 86132J on it. This looks like it could be the source of the poor running, if the plug is essential.
Parts document p108-9 shows the pressure regulator, my B18E engine should have Volvo part 3342421-9. It is a Bosch item on the car with the number 0280 160 225 as far as I can tell. Do you know where this can be cross referenced?
There are some redundant wires under the ignition coil, at least I hope they are redundant! One pair with brown and white/brown wires, and one pair with orange (x2) and yellow wires. Maybe for turbo or something I don't have?
Ignition components - only new plugs fitted.
Referring to the parts document, p202-3 shows various sensors, numbered 9, 30, 25, 39, 28, 29. #25 looks to be the air temperature sensor, in the trunking from the air filter box, and is blue with the numbers 89-235 1537-1 on it. These do not match the Volvo numbers (3418122-2 for my car) and are presumably the makers (Bosch?) identification.
I am not sure where the coolant temperature sensor is located. The only item listed specifically as a temperature sensor is #29. The only thing that looks like a sensor on my engine block is just to the left (looking from the front) of the oil filter, and is white with a single white wire to it. I wonder if this is for the temperature gauge?
The potentiometer #26 is present but the so-called plug #27 is absent, there is just a hole in the side of the potentiometer. Is this what is used for adjustment, as there does not seem to be anything else? Resistance is 2.16k ohms. Two wires - green/brown and white/green with a sleeve round them with 002 86132J on it. This looks like it could be the source of the poor running, if the plug is essential.
Parts document p108-9 shows the pressure regulator, my B18E engine should have Volvo part 3342421-9. It is a Bosch item on the car with the number 0280 160 225 as far as I can tell. Do you know where this can be cross referenced?
There are some redundant wires under the ignition coil, at least I hope they are redundant! One pair with brown and white/brown wires, and one pair with orange (x2) and yellow wires. Maybe for turbo or something I don't have?
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
See below for my comments in shouty CAPS
davekit wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 7:03 pmI've carried out an initial investigation on James's suggestions, but no firm conclusions yet, maybe you can advise further.
Ignition components - only new plugs fitted.
DEFINITELY TRY NEW LEADS, ROTOR ARM AND DISTRIBUTOR CAP BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE, PLUS AN AIR FILTER.
Referring to the parts document, p202-3 shows various sensors, numbered 9, 30, 25, 39, 28, 29. #25 looks to be the air temperature sensor, in the trunking from the air filter box, and is blue with the numbers 89-235 1537-1 on it. These do not match the Volvo numbers (3418122-2 for my car) and are presumably the makers (Bosch?) identification.
BLUE MAY OR MAY NOT BE RIGHT FOR YOUR CAR. I WILL HAVE TO CHECK THE PARTS CATALOGUE.
I am not sure where the coolant temperature sensor is located. The only item listed specifically as a temperature sensor is #29. The only thing that looks like a sensor on my engine block is just to the left (looking from the front) of the oil filter, and is white with a single white wire to it. I wonder if this is for the temperature gauge?
YES, THIS IS THE INFO CENTRE ONE. THE ONE FOR THE FUEL COMPUTER IS JUST TO THE RIGHT OF THE SPARK PLUGS
The potentiometer #26 is present but the so-called plug #27 is absent, there is just a hole in the side of the potentiometer. Is this what is used for adjustment, as there does not seem to be anything else? Resistance is 2.16k ohms. Two wires - green/brown and white/green with a sleeve round them with 002 86132J on it. This looks like it could be the source of the poor running, if the plug is essential.
IM NOT SURE ABOUT THE “PLUG” BUT SUSPECT THIS IS JUST THE LITTLE CIRCULAR PLIG THAT LOCKS THE THING SHUT. IF YOU PULL HARD, THE BLACK TOP SHOULD COME OFF, REVEALING A POTENTIOMETER UNDERNEATH. RANGE IS 300-10k Ohm. Clockwise increases CO; anti-clockwise decreased CO.
Parts document p108-9 shows the pressure regulator, my B18E engine should have Volvo part 3342421-9. It is a Bosch item on the car with the number 0280 160 225 as far as I can tell. Do you know where this can be cross referenced?
NOT SURE BUT HOPE TO FIND TIME TO CHECK ON MY CAR
There are some redundant wires under the ignition coil, at least I hope they are redundant! One pair with brown and white/brown wires, and one pair with orange (x2) and yellow wires. Maybe for turbo or something I don't have?
NORMAL
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
-
- Started learning about 480
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat May 14, 2022 11:16 am
- Location: Bradford, West Yorks
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
Thanks James. Oil, air and fuel filters have been replaced. I've ordered distributor cap, rotor and HT leads, so hopefully get them fitted next week. I'll see if they make a difference before attacking anything else.
The only thing to the right of the plugs (looking from the front) is described as 'Air control' p202-3 #16. It does connect with the trunking from the air filter, so it doesn't look like it is coolant related to me. Or am I confused, or still looking in the wrong place? Anyway, it is black with 3 pins made by Bosch, number partly removed looks like 0280 1xx 501.
The potentiometer does indeed come apart, and should be adjustable. Will try it if new leads, etc don't help. The plug is presumably just to stop the cover coming off accidentally.
Judging by your list of previous 480s you are obviously a fan. And you clearly know your way round the engine bay. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
The only thing to the right of the plugs (looking from the front) is described as 'Air control' p202-3 #16. It does connect with the trunking from the air filter, so it doesn't look like it is coolant related to me. Or am I confused, or still looking in the wrong place? Anyway, it is black with 3 pins made by Bosch, number partly removed looks like 0280 1xx 501.
The potentiometer does indeed come apart, and should be adjustable. Will try it if new leads, etc don't help. The plug is presumably just to stop the cover coming off accidentally.
Judging by your list of previous 480s you are obviously a fan. And you clearly know your way round the engine bay. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
That sounds like the idle air bypass valve. Basically when the throttle is sensed closed (with the throttle switch which you should hear click when moving between closed and slightly open) it takes over control of keeping the engine going at idle. It opens and closed to control the idle— for example higher when cold.davekit wrote: ↑Fri May 20, 2022 3:36 pm.
The only thing to the right of the plugs (looking from the front) is described as 'Air control' p202-3 #16. It does connect with the trunking from the air filter, so it doesn't look like it is coolant related to me. Or am I confused, or still looking in the wrong place? Anyway, it is black with 3 pins made by Bosch, number partly removed looks like 0280 1xx 501.
The engine coolant temperature sensor is hidden behind a few wires and stuff but really is just a small thing screwed to the block just to the right of the spark plugs (looking at the engine). It might be worth checking the resistance of that just to see if it hasn’t gone mad and is affecting the fuelling
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
-
- Started learning about 480
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat May 14, 2022 11:16 am
- Location: Bradford, West Yorks
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
Elusive darn thing, this coolant temperature sensor! There is what appears to be a small sensor in the back of the head, at the distributor end of the engine. Is this it? Looks to be black and the single wire is grey/black.
I wonder if the idle air bypass valve (now identified) is affecting tickover, which is a bit lumpy. I remember driving a friend's 480 when new in the 80s, and thinking tickover wasn't as smooth as it might be. Also revs could drop sharply when pulling away if you were a bit too gentle on the throttle. I put it down to the vagaries of fuel injection, which was a bit novel at the time. I had only driven cars with carbs, which seemed a bit more forgiving. Even now, my kit-car is on carbs!
I wonder if the idle air bypass valve (now identified) is affecting tickover, which is a bit lumpy. I remember driving a friend's 480 when new in the 80s, and thinking tickover wasn't as smooth as it might be. Also revs could drop sharply when pulling away if you were a bit too gentle on the throttle. I put it down to the vagaries of fuel injection, which was a bit novel at the time. I had only driven cars with carbs, which seemed a bit more forgiving. Even now, my kit-car is on carbs!
-
- Started learning about 480
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat May 14, 2022 11:16 am
- Location: Bradford, West Yorks
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
I think the sensor at the back of the head is probably another temperature sender for the gauges - possibly oil temp. I've finally located the coolant temperature sensor under the bracket carrying the plug leads, pretty much where James said, but well hidden.
I replaced the distributor, rotor and HT leads, and there was a definite improvement in running. I think there may have been a slight misfire before, and the old cap looked a bit corroded inside, but it was definitely smoother running with new components.
Flushed with success, I tried adjusting the potentiometer. At either extreme, running was worse, but tickover was improved with high resistance. I therefore tried more gradual increases from the starting value of 2.16k. It is now set at 4.94k, and the engine pulls much more readily and tickover is steady. Not exactly neck-breaking acceleration, but much more driveable. This is in danger of becoming a really nice car!!!
The inlet air temperature sensor (blue connector) shows 3.51k. Haynes specifies 290 plus/minus 20 ohms (black) or 2500 plus/minus 300 ohms (blue). Even assuming that the correct sensor is fitted, it would appear to be a bit out of spec.
The coolant temperature sensor revealed itself when fitting the new leads. Getting the meter probes on the contacts is tricky, so I hope I got an accurate reading, but it seemed to be 5.06k. This is way higher than Haynes specifies for a B18E engine, namely 290 plus/minus 20 ohms (Fenix 1), or 2500 plus/minus 300 (Fenix 3.2) My car has a Bendix engine management system, which I assume is equivalent to the Fenix 1, reading between the lines in Haynes. That being the case, it looks to be the wrong sensor, and out of spec.
It may be worth replacing the two sensors, assuming availability, and being able to establish for certain what are the correct items. Meanwhile, the car is much improved, so thanks again to James.
I replaced the distributor, rotor and HT leads, and there was a definite improvement in running. I think there may have been a slight misfire before, and the old cap looked a bit corroded inside, but it was definitely smoother running with new components.
Flushed with success, I tried adjusting the potentiometer. At either extreme, running was worse, but tickover was improved with high resistance. I therefore tried more gradual increases from the starting value of 2.16k. It is now set at 4.94k, and the engine pulls much more readily and tickover is steady. Not exactly neck-breaking acceleration, but much more driveable. This is in danger of becoming a really nice car!!!
The inlet air temperature sensor (blue connector) shows 3.51k. Haynes specifies 290 plus/minus 20 ohms (black) or 2500 plus/minus 300 ohms (blue). Even assuming that the correct sensor is fitted, it would appear to be a bit out of spec.
The coolant temperature sensor revealed itself when fitting the new leads. Getting the meter probes on the contacts is tricky, so I hope I got an accurate reading, but it seemed to be 5.06k. This is way higher than Haynes specifies for a B18E engine, namely 290 plus/minus 20 ohms (Fenix 1), or 2500 plus/minus 300 (Fenix 3.2) My car has a Bendix engine management system, which I assume is equivalent to the Fenix 1, reading between the lines in Haynes. That being the case, it looks to be the wrong sensor, and out of spec.
It may be worth replacing the two sensors, assuming availability, and being able to establish for certain what are the correct items. Meanwhile, the car is much improved, so thanks again to James.
-
- Started learning about 480
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat May 14, 2022 11:16 am
- Location: Bradford, West Yorks
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
My concerns have been justified, as the correct sensors for my car are like rocking horse droppings. Does anyone know where I might try for them? I've checked loads of sites on ebay and elsewhere, and the sensors for later cars (from chassis 520281) are easy to find, but not for the early cars.
According to the parts catalogue, for B18E engine (up to chassis 520280), air sensor is 3418122-2, and coolant sensor is 3430394-1. My chassis is 513546.
Thanks!
According to the parts catalogue, for B18E engine (up to chassis 520280), air sensor is 3418122-2, and coolant sensor is 3430394-1. My chassis is 513546.
Thanks!
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
The black bodied sensors are incredibly hard to find— I have tried and tried and only ever got them from begging Brinkie in NL! Which one do you need— engine temperature or air intake temperature?
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
I think that Brinkie has been experimenting with simply swapping to later Sensors and ECU - Wiring between the models is the same.
I'd wait for him to super dooper confirm though!
I'd wait for him to super dooper confirm though!
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
I looked in to this and it’s not exactly the same but there would only have to be a few changes to the wiring to move stuff to another pin in a few instances.
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
-
- Started learning about 480
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat May 14, 2022 11:16 am
- Location: Bradford, West Yorks
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
As I said, the car is running much better now, but judging by the resistance on the two sensors, it is not clear whether they are incorrect items or out of spec - or both! It is only worth changing them if I can be sure of fitting the correct items. They only cost £10-20 apiece, so that isn't the issue, but I still feel that further gains can be made in performance. I can't use the existing colours as a guide if I suspect they are the wrong items anyway. I'd change both sensors if I was sure I was fitting the correct ones.
Unfortunately, the specifications are not easy to correlate. The Volvo parts catalogue makes no mention of colour or resistance, but gives different part numbers based on engine type (B18E, B18F) and chassis number (-520280, 520281-). Haynes specifies colour (black or blue) and associated resistance for the air sensor for B18E engines, but makes no mention of chassis number. Haynes specifies resistance (but not colour or chassis) for the coolant sensor, in this case based on engine type and management system.
Ebay throws up vast numbers of both sensors which it claims "fits Volvo 480". They may fit, but that does not make them correct! Many of the listings have a cross reference to other aftermarket brands (dozens!) and the original Volvo/Renault part numbers, but every one I looked at gave the later Volvo numbers. The air temperature sensors were mostly black and a few blue ones. The coolant temperature sensors were black, blue, white, grey, etc. I wonder how reliable a guide the colour is on aftermarket brands? Also, how reliable is Haynes? The only thing I would trust is the Volvo part number.
Doing general Google searches (off ebay), I found just one supplier who listed sensors for the early chassis numbers. He came back with 'no stock available'. I even phoned the local Volvo main dealer, but no joy. So, it looks like I will have to stay with the existing sensors for now, right or wrong.
Unfortunately, the specifications are not easy to correlate. The Volvo parts catalogue makes no mention of colour or resistance, but gives different part numbers based on engine type (B18E, B18F) and chassis number (-520280, 520281-). Haynes specifies colour (black or blue) and associated resistance for the air sensor for B18E engines, but makes no mention of chassis number. Haynes specifies resistance (but not colour or chassis) for the coolant sensor, in this case based on engine type and management system.
Ebay throws up vast numbers of both sensors which it claims "fits Volvo 480". They may fit, but that does not make them correct! Many of the listings have a cross reference to other aftermarket brands (dozens!) and the original Volvo/Renault part numbers, but every one I looked at gave the later Volvo numbers. The air temperature sensors were mostly black and a few blue ones. The coolant temperature sensors were black, blue, white, grey, etc. I wonder how reliable a guide the colour is on aftermarket brands? Also, how reliable is Haynes? The only thing I would trust is the Volvo part number.
Doing general Google searches (off ebay), I found just one supplier who listed sensors for the early chassis numbers. He came back with 'no stock available'. I even phoned the local Volvo main dealer, but no joy. So, it looks like I will have to stay with the existing sensors for now, right or wrong.
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
True. I’ve struggled to get these sensors too.
The early car’s sensors have black bodies for the B18E and are PTC (positive temperature coefficient).
Later, the blue sensors, for rest of production, are NTC (negative temperature coefficient)
Unfortunately, you can buy black bodied ones that behave like blue bodied ones which is your legitimate worry that they have been changed in the past.
If you have black bodied sensors, you could remove them and see is the resistance rises with temperature increase to be a little more assured that you have the right ones? If you take the engine temperature sensor out, you only loose a tiny bit of coolant and it stops pretty quick.
I bet there is an equivalent Renault part but we have never worked that out yet.
Glad it is running better though. Don’t worry, you’ll get there in the end with more perseverance! Sorry to ask a really silly question but you did measure the resistance of the engine coolant one cold didn’t you?
The early car’s sensors have black bodies for the B18E and are PTC (positive temperature coefficient).
Later, the blue sensors, for rest of production, are NTC (negative temperature coefficient)
Unfortunately, you can buy black bodied ones that behave like blue bodied ones which is your legitimate worry that they have been changed in the past.
If you have black bodied sensors, you could remove them and see is the resistance rises with temperature increase to be a little more assured that you have the right ones? If you take the engine temperature sensor out, you only loose a tiny bit of coolant and it stops pretty quick.
I bet there is an equivalent Renault part but we have never worked that out yet.
Glad it is running better though. Don’t worry, you’ll get there in the end with more perseverance! Sorry to ask a really silly question but you did measure the resistance of the engine coolant one cold didn’t you?
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2507
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Recommissioning a 480: 9. Final Bits
Interestingly PTC temperature sensors are described as quite rare here and often just for old Renaults. If we could only just work out which Renix (Bendix) systems they adapted ours from we could probably find a nice one at the Renault dealer!
https://autoditex.com/page/engine-coola ... -13-1.html
And this Renault site takes about PTC and NTC sensors for the 21: https://turborenault.co.uk/threads/ecu- ... sor.11126/
I wonder if a genuine Renault part number 7700730022 or Hella 6PT 009 107-001 would be our B18E PTC engine temperature sensor?
http://renault21.ucoz.ua/forum/2-309-4
![Image](http://renault21.ucoz.ua/_fr/3/8861907.gif)
https://autoditex.com/page/engine-coola ... -13-1.html
And this Renault site takes about PTC and NTC sensors for the 21: https://turborenault.co.uk/threads/ecu- ... sor.11126/
I wonder if a genuine Renault part number 7700730022 or Hella 6PT 009 107-001 would be our B18E PTC engine temperature sensor?
http://renault21.ucoz.ua/forum/2-309-4
![Image](http://renault21.ucoz.ua/_fr/3/8861907.gif)
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)