Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

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100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Thu Apr 30, 2020 9:42 am

Turbo calipers, rebuild kit and paint kit are enroute to me now, need to get this bumper back on before my attention is drawn away to more exciting things!

Any tips on pads or discs, I know it comes up for discussion quite regularly in the brake section but does anyone have first hand experience with the Tarox/Black Diamond stuff?

On initial browsing these look like they might do the job: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/black-d ... bd2583com/

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/black-d ... kbd584com/

All show and no... stop? I always treat drilled discs with great suspicion, although I've never had any.

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Mon May 04, 2020 9:14 am

Small update:

De-rusted and protected:
Image

Back in the bumper:
Image

Image

Finished bumper:
Image

Excuse the filthiness of my work area!

Rust treatment is on going on the rear of the car, and the other arch
Image

Hopefully prep and painting will take place over the course of this week.

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Sun May 10, 2020 7:38 pm

An update for the last few days work, I've been taking this very steady and making mistakes every step of the way so it's been a bit painful...!

To summarise:

Before:
Image

After:
Image

Removing some tape was enough to remove my 'limited' badge...

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Started on the arches today but it was too cold/windy to make any real progress.

Image

My Turbo brakes arrived, which I'm very pleased about. It has got me wondering whether there is any difference in the master cylinder between a N/A 1.7 and a Turbo? Does anyone have any Turbo brake diagrams so I can find parts etc. The pistons look okay but if replacements are cheap I may as well!

It also occurred to me whilst looking at the tiddly rear brakes, is there any reason the existing front couldn't be moved to the back?

Any thoughts much appreciated as this is all new to me - particularly the bodywork which I have to say i haven't particularly enjoyed but I'm sure that has a lot to do with how good (bad) a job I did. It's enough to protect the car, but is miles away from anything professional.

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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by jifflemon » Mon May 11, 2020 12:56 pm

100 wrote:
Sun May 10, 2020 7:38 pm
Removing some tape was enough to remove my 'limited' badge...
I'd probably removed the other one, gives you a chance to scrub them both clean, and the panel behind it too.
100 wrote:
Sun May 10, 2020 7:38 pm
My Turbo brakes arrived, which I'm very pleased about. It has got me wondering whether there is any difference in the master cylinder between a N/A 1.7 and a Turbo? Does anyone have any Turbo brake diagrams so I can find parts etc. The pistons look okay but if replacements are cheap I may as well!

It also occurred to me whilst looking at the tiddly rear brakes, is there any reason the existing front couldn't be moved to the back?
Piston diameter is the same across the range (54mm). Fwd cars don't really need bigger brakes at the back. They tend to do very little as it is until you get some passengers in there. Then of course, the complete lack of handbrake mechanism would also not help - I know as 480 owners were used to a lack of handbrake, but Mr MOT tends to get annoyed when you remove it altogether!

For replacements parts I use Brakes International

Alan 480
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by Alan 480 » Tue May 12, 2020 6:41 pm

jifflemon wrote:
Mon May 11, 2020 12:56 pm
Then of course, the complete lack of handbrake mechanism would also not help - I know as 480 owners were used to a lack of handbrake, but Mr MOT tends to get annoyed when you remove it altogether!
are you allowed to use a 'line lock' ie a quarter turn ball hand valve on the hydraulic circuit, or is this only a thing the 'racing' boys use for weight saving?
Alan

480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1

jifflemon
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by jifflemon » Tue May 12, 2020 7:58 pm

Never used to be allowed.

Handbrake was to be independent of hydraulic circuit in case of failure. I suspect the modern (and equally stupid!) electronic handbrakes fail "on", and electricity is applied to release them.... Never had to deal with such stupidity, so don't know for sure.

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Wed May 13, 2020 4:46 pm

jifflemon wrote:
Mon May 11, 2020 12:56 pm
I'd probably removed the other one, gives you a chance to scrub them both clean, and the panel behind it too.
Definitely what I'll be doing!
jifflemon wrote:
Mon May 11, 2020 12:56 pm
Piston diameter is the same across the range (54mm). Fwd cars don't really need bigger brakes at the back. They tend to do very little as it is until you get some passengers in there. Then of course, the complete lack of handbrake mechanism would also not help - I know as 480 owners were used to a lack of handbrake, but Mr MOT tends to get annoyed when you remove it altogether!
That's good to know thanks, I didn't consider the handbrake on the rears. How do they work, on my other car the handbrake is completely separate from the caliper? It's not that the car needs bigger rear brakes its just a case of utilising the bigger ones because I've got them... Bigger is always better right!
jifflemon wrote:
Mon May 11, 2020 12:56 pm
For replacements parts I use Brakes International
Out of stock, but I think for the sake of £18 each it'll be worth getting them and as much other new bits as I can.

Fresh goo in the arches:
Image

I've also thoroughly cavity waxed the inside of the arches and rear quarters, as well as the sills. Clearly I can't get a pic of this!

Arches painted:
Image

New airbox pipe:
Image

New storage tray as I broke the last one replacing the heated seat button... little things make all the difference!
Image

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Wed May 20, 2020 9:00 am

So thankfully, the car is back together which is a bit of a relief, even took it to the pub!

Image

Social distancing at Wills:

Image

Image

The back box cooked the exhaust tape so it's back to sounding like a shit rally car and I'm still sans-splitter but at least I can drive around in the sun!

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Fri Jun 12, 2020 10:10 pm

Evening all,

Driving the car down to Bristol tomorrow to have a stainless exhaust put on, however I’ve encountered a bit of an issue that has been occurring intermittently over the past couple of months.

When I turn the ignition either:

- the relays click and the dials go dead. Removing the key and turning the ignition on again everything lights back up and the same happens again. (Voltage on battery is fine)

- the dials light up, turn the key to start and nothing happens. No relays clicking but the dials also don’t ‘die’.

Historically, putting a battery booster on the battery seemed to get the car started, although the percentage charge on the booster never went down so I don’t think it was actually doing anything,

No voltage drop on the battery when the ignition is turned.

Relays all appear fine...!

Any help, as always, greatly appreciated!

Martin Mc
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by Martin Mc » Sat Jun 13, 2020 7:55 am

It sounds like the same thing that happens when you try to start either of mine without disarming the immobiliser first. Everything lights up with the key in the ignition, but as soon as you turn the key to start it all just stops - no clicking, no flashing, no turning over of the engine. Might it be immobiliser related?

I love your car, by the way. What a fantastic running restoration looks like at its best!

Good luck with the starting issues.

Martin
1991 ES White / 1995 ES Red / 1995 ES Red / 1994 S Black / 1995 Celebration Red / 1994 S Paris Blue / 1995 Celebration (again!) Red - Currently free of all extramarital cars, wrench-loose and fancy free :)

jifflemon
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by jifflemon » Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:56 am

100 wrote:
Fri Jun 12, 2020 10:10 pm
Evening all,

Driving the car down to Bristol tomorrow to have a stainless exhaust put on, however I’ve encountered a bit of an issue that has been occurring intermittently over the past couple of months.

When I turn the ignition either:

- the relays click and the dials go dead. Removing the key and turning the ignition on again everything lights back up and the same happens again. (Voltage on battery is fine)

- the dials light up, turn the key to start and nothing happens. No relays clicking but the dials also don’t ‘die’.

Historically, putting a battery booster on the battery seemed to get the car started, although the percentage charge on the booster never went down so I don’t think it was actually doing anything,

No voltage drop on the battery when the ignition is turned.

Relays all appear fine...!

Any help, as always, greatly appreciated!
to clarify, do you mean when you turn the key to the start position? Or is this just to an ignition on position?

If it's start position, then its potentially either starter or voltage drop on the starter circuit. As you've got much easier access to the starter, consider running an additional wire on a piggy back terminal to the starter solonoid wire, leaving the other end near the battery. When you get a "no start" incident, flick your additional wire against the positive battery terminal and see if it cranks.

If it does, you've volt drop in the cranking circuit (possible cause, igntion barrel contacts)
If it doesn't, you've got a failing starter.

Alan 480
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by Alan 480 » Sat Jun 13, 2020 3:39 pm

jifflemon wrote:
Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:56 am

to clarify, do you mean when you turn the key to the start position? Or is this just to an ignition on position?

If it's start position, then its potentially either starter or voltage drop on the starter circuit. As you've got much easier access to the starter, consider running an additional wire on a piggy back terminal to the starter solonoid wire, leaving the other end near the battery. When you get a "no start" incident, flick your additional wire against the positive battery terminal and see if it cranks.

If it does, you've volt drop in the cranking circuit (possible cause, igntion barrel contacts)
If it doesn't, you've got a failing starter.
I had a similar issue a few years ago. fixed in a simialr manner but left a micro switch tucked in behind the battery for this purpose.

It also means possible to spin the engine without it starting, useful when car is standing for long periods, gets oil moving before 'firing up' :wink:
Alan

480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:59 am

Martin Mc wrote:
Sat Jun 13, 2020 7:55 am
It sounds like the same thing that happens when you try to start either of mine without disarming the immobiliser first. Everything lights up with the key in the ignition, but as soon as you turn the key to start it all just stops - no clicking, no flashing, no turning over of the engine. Might it be immobiliser related?
That sounds exactly like one of the two outcomes I've been experiencing!
Martin Mc wrote:
Sat Jun 13, 2020 7:55 am
I love your car, by the way. What a fantastic running restoration looks like at its best!
Thanks!
jifflemon wrote:
Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:56 am
to clarify, do you mean when you turn the key to the start position? Or is this just to an ignition on position?
Yes to the start position, sorry could have been clearer!
jifflemon wrote:
Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:56 am
If it's start position, then its potentially either starter or voltage drop on the starter circuit. As you've got much easier access to the starter, consider running an additional wire on a piggy back terminal to the starter solonoid wire, leaving the other end near the battery. When you get a "no start" incident, flick your additional wire against the positive battery terminal and see if it cranks.

If it does, you've volt drop in the cranking circuit (possible cause, igntion barrel contacts)
If it doesn't, you've got a failing starter.
We push started the car no problem, then when we turned off the engine and tried again it still wouldn't start. However, we gave the starter/solenoid a tap and since then it's been fine...! I've no doubt that at some point soon I will encounter the same problem so it would still be good to get it diagnosed.

The wire to the solonoid is something we considered but didn't have time to try so we will certainly give that a go.

The good news is that because the we managed to get the car started (and has been starting ever since), we managed to get to the exhaust place which had been recommended to me (Infinity Exhausts in Bristol).

Image

Image

Image

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Tue Jul 14, 2020 8:38 am

Nothing much to update as I seem to be in a period of maintenance rather than improvement - although my Turbo front calipers are currently being painted.

Typically the evening before driving down to Devon it became apparent that, as my girlfriend put it, we has 'run out' of brake pad. Turns out the rear right had worn down completely whilst the rear left has plenty of life left, something to investigate there.

Anyway... having changed the front pads before I thought nothing of changing the rears, how wrong I was! So for the benefit of anyone trying to do this in the future:

Removal:
> Jack up car
> Remove wheel/bolts
> Remove the dust caps from the slider bolts
> Use a 7mm allen key to undo the slider bolts and pull them through the rubber sleeves they sit in so that the thread is out of the way of the caliper (or remove them entirely)
> Remove the clip on the front face of the caliper that helps hold in the pads
> Pull the caliper off the disc (may need some nudging/tapping/hitting)
> Remove the old pads
> Remove a dust cap on the backside of the caliper that exposes a small allen key adjuster
> Use a 4mm allen key to undo this (it appears to be some sort of handbrake adjuster but apparently without undoing this the piston won't move (not sure if this is 100% correct)
> Take the dust cap off the bleed nipple and undo with a small spanner/socket

Compressing the piston:
> Use a caliper wind tool (or whatever you have come up with) to apply pressure to the piston which now needs to be pushed back into the body of the caliper to allow room for the new pads (I took the rubber boot off the piston to do this)
> Critically, the rear piston needs to screwed back into the body, not pushed (although there also needs to be some pressure pushing the piston in - hence the caliper wind tool)
> Use molegrips/pliers/whatever works to rotate the piston clockwise. Every time you rotate the piston remember to screw in the caliper wind tool to ensure there is always pressure on the piston. it goes without saying that when rotating the piston, try not damage it with your molegrips/pliers etc!

Fitting:
> Once the piston has returned into the body of the caliper redo the bleed nipple, screw in the 4mm allen adjuster and replace the dust caps
> The piston side pad had 3 small 'arms' protruding from the back of the pad, fit these into the piston whilst holding the other pad in place in the caliper
> Hopefully, the gap between the two pads is enough to fit over your disc. It wasn't in my case so I ended up sanding down the new pads by a couple of mm to get them to fit
> Do up the 7mm slider bolts and replace the dust caps
> Replace the pad clip
> Replace wheel/bolts
> Release jack
> Swear/cry/praise the Lord

For the benefit of the forum search: how to change rear brake pads / piston not returning compressing

Checked last night and I have managed to do 21k miles since early 2018. Not bad! Off the back of Jeff's running costs thread I thought I might take a look at all the paperwork I have accumulated over the past 2.5 years and see what those miles have cost me! Hopefully it'll be an argument for why 480s should be used everyday, unfortunately it'll more likely be a argument for buying a brand new KIA with a 7 year warranty...

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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by jifflemon » Tue Jul 14, 2020 11:30 am

100 wrote:
Tue Jul 14, 2020 8:38 am
For the benefit of the forum search: how to change rear brake pads / piston not returning compressing
I've covered it twice!

Rear brake overhaul how to

and also in Henry's service post

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Tue Jul 14, 2020 1:02 pm

jifflemon wrote:
Tue Jul 14, 2020 11:30 am
100 wrote:
Tue Jul 14, 2020 8:38 am
For the benefit of the forum search: how to change rear brake pads / piston not returning compressing
I've covered it twice!

Rear brake overhaul how to

and also in Henry's service post
And I used your post as my guide, but it took me a long time to figure out the piston needed rotating!

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Tue Jul 14, 2020 9:09 pm

So...

Purchase in 03/18 so coming up to 2.5 years of ownership and bought on the basis that it was a clean car with minimal work required.

Costs excluding MOT/servicing/labour and consumable parts:

Main costs (necessary):
Water pump: £50
Repair coolant and PAS pump: £140
Rear caliper: £74
Starter motor: £75
Oil pressure switch: £6
Exhaust centre pipe: £95
Hand brake cables: £52
Window regulator RHS: €145
Window regulator LHS: €130
Horns: £37
Tyres: £285

Total: c.£1040

Extras (not necessary):
DRL socket: €32
Pop-up headlight gas springs x 4: €84
Heater knobs: €34
Boot roller cover: £100
Oil sender: €110
Headlight bulbs: £18
Spotlight bulbs: £5
Front and rear speakers: £80
Headunit: £140
DRL lenses: €40
Wiper blades: £45
Rear engine mount: €165
NOS numberplate holder: €25
Engine undertray: €40
Turbo front calipers: £100
Dinitrol: £100

Total: c.£1050

Surprisingly close! Although when labour/service items/consumables/MOT is included in main costs section it's way ahead as you'd expect. Still gets me thinking, should I have spent less on 'improving' the car with the extras and more on Jeff's list of basics (suspension immediately jumps to my mind!)

100
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by 100 » Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:31 pm

A bit of an update as I haven't in a while - nothing particularly exciting.

Firstly, I sourced rebuilt and has some Turbo calipers powder coated - yet to be fit:

Image

Took a picture with a lesser vehicle:

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Added some sound deadening:

Before:
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After:
Image

My previous arch repair was fine, but inevitably more stone chips appeared and the car started to show signs of surface rust. So, as a more permanent solution I've treated the rust and sprayed the inner arch with some undercoat/underseal type stuff:

Image

The next part of the update might be slightly contentious given that there are a fair few number plate 'enthusiasts' on here and with that usually some disdain for 'private' number plates! Nevertheless(!):

Before (another good angle even if I do say so):

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During:

Image

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After:

Image

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Not a completely perfect job but not too bad, nothing noticeable wrong with it anyway!

Some new PS3s were fitted to the front the other day after cancelling an order for some Continental All Seasons at the last minute. Plans for this year is a new standard exhaust as my fancy stainless one is SHIT :kill: :angry: :evil: some more sound proofing and some more miles!

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MisterH
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by MisterH » Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:40 pm

Haha as a number plate enthusiast, I think the number is fine as you have managed to get the right age identifier(K) :hopping:

Odd to think that a long time ago this particular car was the first one I had the intention of getting, before it sold to flipping bangers (I believe this is the car right?)

Glad to see it is being looked after and mine isn't the only one in daily use :D
Current Jobs to do (23/1/22):
Fix Central Locking
Fix drivers side speaker
Annoying Scratching Squeak
Water leaks
Complete Front O/S rebuild

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jamescarruthers
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Re: Oli's 1992 Volvo 480ES Limited Edition

Post by jamescarruthers » Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:51 pm

Love the shortened front numberplate holder! Very nicely done.
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)

Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)

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