Volvo 480 Club Europe

Echoing the above; this is good news on many fronts!

Certainly is - another 480 in good hands and a potential new member here too!

David

Brilliant news - it was our friend's treasured baby for many years, he was desperately sad when he had to part with it so he will be delighted to know it's in safe hands and in the club. Hopefully we'll see it again at one of the meets, on the road instead of sorned in our friend's garage.

I should have looked happier knowing it was going to a good home -

Despite being tinged with regret, I'm chuffed that Oliver has opted to give it a good home, especially knowing Will's experience which as you can see from his posts is pretty extensive!

I do hope to make it to a meet-up at some point - it'd be great to see the Volvo again further down the line and see how it's doing!

I'll be following the posts closely in the meantime!

I have to say, this is a great community and lord knows why I didn't get involved all that time ago when I had my first one....I might have been tempted to have tackled its demons!

Winter Service Update:

I (and the good people at the Swedish Car Clinic, who I highly recommend) have been working hard to sort out all the problems that have accumulated over the last couple of years, and I'm pleased to say that I'm now very nearly ready for another summer in the 480!

Recent jobs include:
- Engine oil & filter
- Fuel & air filters
- New plugs
- New clutch & gearbox oil
- Rear pads & discs replaced
- New front wipers
- Oil sender acquired & replaced
- Rear engine mount acquired and replaced
- Steering wheel brought a bit closer to improve driving position

Things remaining to be done in short order:
- Sort out rear wiring loom. Currently lacking some rear illumination, de-misting, and the wiper.
- Patch up current exhaust, potentially replace front-to-back later in the year
- Replace windscreen

Nice-to-dos:
- Soundproof the doors and rear quarters as much as possible
- Re-do speakers after above has been done
- Find an alternative source for RHD clutch cables as the originals don't exist anymore.

And now, a new segment that I shall call 'Parts that are hard to find, which, increasingly, are most of them":


This is the oil sender for cars with aux gauges, only really of interest because this might well be the last NOS Volvo unit still in its box in existence (ignore the Wago blocks - I added them to connect it to my slightly bodged wiring loom). Fortunately, FAE have a compatible unit that is pretty easy to get hold of, although not cheap.



Here we have the elusive rear engine mount, or at least a compatible one. The base on it is forged from the finest Chineseum alloy, so I'll be interested to see how long it lasts in any case, not that the Volvo one was much better. This was not easy to find at all, and harder still to get delivered successfully (another story for another time!). It also cost an eye-watering multiple of what it would have done from Volvo back in the day, but without it the car isn't going far. I'm going to look into an alternative supply for these with less aggressive lead times as I reckon that I'm not going to be the last person who needs one.

Here's the one that came out of my car:


Doesn't look to bad, right? Well, here are some alternative angles:




It's actually an interesting piece of mechanical design - the gearbox sits nice and firmly on the top (made of metal), and then the mount bolts on to the car in two places on its base (also made of metal), but everything in the middle is rubber, with just a small locating pin set into the rubber to keep it centred in the base, as can be seen here:



The three bits go together as illustrated below, which also shows the failure points quite nicely:



I suppose the idea is that shearing forces will be minimal and most of the weight will be going straight downward, at least that's the theory. Based on how the gears have felt, I'd reckon that mine has been broken for a good 18 months, if not more. The Clinic agreed with this, and they were even able to put the car back together on the broken mount while I was looking for the replacement. Essentially, the weight of the gearbox and engine hold the pieces of the mount together. Apparently, this was a known fault when the cars were new, and dealers would have a goodly stock of new mounts on hand when the cars came in for service, since you could be driving on a broken one for months or even years, and you wouldn't necessarily realise it until you lift the engine. Worth knowing!

And now back to the easy-to-find stuff:

Here's an interesting one - a large (and increasing) crack at the top of the windscreen on the passenger side. There's been a lot of talk about windscreen de-lamination in other threads, and obviously I didn't want to be left out. It's more visible from the outside but also difficult to photograph, so here's what it looks like from inside:



The culprit is obvious - an aftermarket DAB antenna added by the previous owner putting pressure on the glass. I must admit that listening to Absolute 80s was a nice novelty, but I can't remember the last time I used the DAB functionality so I'm happy to get rid of it if this is what is causes. I'm also pretty certain that someone polished the windscreen with a dirty cloth (or perhaps some sandpaper ) at some point in the car's life, so I've been looking for an excuse to replace it anyway. Apparently Autoglass have done no less than 3 480s in the last 6 months, so this will soon be number 4.

Finally, here's the spacer I added to the wheel, which brings it 40mm closer to me. Makes driving much more comfortable, and I can still just reach the stalks without taking my hands off the wheel:



Overall, good progress. I suppose a broken engine mount and a slightly unhealthy clutch are things that you get used to over time, but that just makes the difference all the more pronounced when they are sorted out. I'm sure all the improvements have contributed, and now the car slots into gear effortlessly where it used to require some serious strength and precision, and when you bring the clutch up and apply the throttle it surges forward and dares you to try to stop it, where it used to stutter, bang, slip the clutch, and generally complain. Very happy!

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

Fortunately, FAE have a compatible unit that is pretty easy to get hold of, although not cheap.

That’s useful to know. Do you have a part number?

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

I suppose the idea is that shearing forces will be minimal and most of the weight will be going straight downward, at least that's the theory.

I believe you are right but I have read that if the damper at the side of the engine goes the stresses on the mount become more severe and it breaks. Might be worth checking, if you haven’t already.

I also believe the earlier models and/or the Autos had a different design for the rear mount.

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

The culprit is obvious - an aftermarket DAB antenna added by the previous owner putting pressure on the glass.

I would personally thing the DAB antenna is a coincidence and the main culprit will be rust under the glass. I would strongly recommend if there is getting this dealt with before putting in a new screen or it will happen again. I have two that need new screens, one was definitely rust as the screen is out and the rust is on my to do list, it will hopefully get a new screen this year, the other one looking at it it is almost certainly rust and is on my to do list for 2025.

I also believe the earlier models and/or the Autos had a different design for the rear mount.

My 93 2 litre manual has two different design mounts - this is the other one

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

Nice-to-dos:
- Soundproof the doors and rear quarters as much as possible

So, for this little task, get yourself this stuff. It's amazing.

There's a video of it in action here.

I've got a massive box for both the 480 and several other cars in the fleet, and the weight of the box defies it's dimensions!

eye of ra wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 4:53 pm

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

Fortunately, FAE have a compatible unit that is pretty easy to get hold of, although not cheap.

That’s useful to know. Do you have a part number?

Here's a screenshot from the catalogue:


I've seen them on eBay, probably available elsewhere as well. If you're looking for a sender then I'd suggest getting that one in particular as I found a generic one with the same pressure range and thread and for reasons unknown it didn't work with the car at all.

eye of ra wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 4:53 pm

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

The culprit is obvious - an aftermarket DAB antenna added by the previous owner putting pressure on the glass.

I would personally thing the DAB antenna is a coincidence and the main culprit will be rust under the glass. I would strongly recommend if there is getting this dealt with before putting in a new screen or it will happen again. I have two that need new screens, one was definitely rust as the screen is out and the rust is on my to do list, it will hopefully get a new screen this year, the other one looking at it it is almost certainly rust and is on my to do list for 2025.

I'll certainly bear that in mind - in my case, I can see where a wire has been pushed in between the glass and the seal which may or may have not started the crack, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's let water in and caused rust as well, so it may be a case of different ways to arrive at the same destination...

jifflemon wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 6:07 pm

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

Nice-to-dos:
- Soundproof the doors and rear quarters as much as possible

So, for this little task, get yourself this stuff. It's amazing.

There's a video of it in action here.

I've got a massive box for both the 480 and several other cars in the fleet, and the weight of the box defies it's dimensions!

That's exactly what I tend to go for. I bought a square of dynamat once and I'm pretty sure the only difference is the brand name and the price. I took my Saab apart last year and covered it in silent coat and the difference in both unwanted noise and sound quality from the speakers had to be heard to be believed. You're quite right about the weight though so definitely not a performance accessory!

Checked the spare clutch cable today. (can't confirm which engine it is for, but looks same as is in the car)

1280 overall length of the 'sleeved' section this is from the face of the plastic where sits against the bulkhead to the face tha sits onto gearbox. MAXIMUM travel ever possible is 120mm , but to get that much movement the rubber shroud would have to be missing, ie there is 120mm of cable exposed which connects to the 6mm threaded portion is about 80mm long and the internal end is cylindrical 8mm diamter x 10mm long (TBC), with axis along the cable (not across the cable as I'd remembered, but that's cos the SS1 is )

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

That's exactly what I tend to go for. I bought a square of dynamat once and I'm pretty sure the only difference is the brand name and the price. I took my Saab apart last year and covered it in silent coat and the difference in both unwanted noise and sound quality from the speakers had to be heard to be believed. You're quite right about the weight though so definitely not a performance accessory!

See that's where us turbo folk are lucky - I change a dip switch and suddenly my power to weight ratio is re balanced

I'm desperate to do do the 480, but my body shop bloke says not to do anywhere where he needs to swing his panel beating hammers; which right now, means I could do the tailgate.... oh yeah... thats all glass.

dragonflyjewels wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 5:30 pm

I also believe the earlier models and/or the Autos had a different design for the rear mount.

My 93 2 litre manual has two different design mounts - this is the other one

Thats the one.

No idea which cars got what then as my 1989 Auto has that one (I would check my other but its dark and raining ) and it’s not clear from a
quick look in the parts manual.

Thanks for the info on the pressure sensor. If my other car is salvageable and I can find the gauges that will be very useful.

Jaster wrote: I'll certainly bear that in mind - in my case, I can see where a wire has been pushed in between the glass and the seal which may or may have not started the crack, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's let water in and caused rust as well, so it may be a case of different ways to arrive at the same destination...

If a wire has been pushed through the seal you’re probably right but rust is a common reason for the screens to crack and re-crack if a new one is fitted over it.

eye of ra wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 09, 2018 7:01 pm

If a wire has been pushed through the seal you’re probably right but rust is a common reason for the screens to crack and re-crack if a new one is fitted over it.

yes happened with first 480, when screen went on this one, the glass repair guys removed the screen one day , i attacked it with angle grinder/flap wheel/rust remover. filled with chopped strand , where required, painted etc

they came back a few days later to re-fit the screen. good job it was 'half decent' weather outside as car was left under car port and a sheet of plastic over hole

eye of ra wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 4:53 pm

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

Fortunately, FAE have a compatible unit that is pretty easy to get hold of, although not cheap.

That’s useful to know. Do you have a part number?

Jaster wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:18 am

I suppose the idea is that shearing forces will be minimal and most of the weight will be going straight downward, at least that's the theory.

I believe you are right but I have read that if the damper at the side of the engine goes the stresses on the mount become more severe and it breaks. Might be worth checking, if you haven’t already.

I also believe the earlier models and/or the Autos had a different design for the rear mount.
‎

‎Sorry to jump into your car's diary with a question!

The engine damper: I presume it has a big spring inside it or is it a gas strut; or a mixture of both?

‎

AFAIK engine 'steady' is simply a baby shock absorber, possibly 'gas filled' , (when new? )

Alan 480 wrote: ↑

Wed May 02, 2018 11:42 am

AFAIK engine 'steady' is simply a baby shock absorber, possibly 'gas filled' , (when new? )

Interesting. I had the pop up light struts re-gassed. I wonder if the damper could be regassed too?‎

This is mine.



And I would say its gas. Volvo part no 447758, Boge part no 1-0030-22-850-0.

If it can be re-gased I might get mine done before it goes back in as a replacment isnt cheap.

Maybe send it to SGS Engineering so they can asses it then we could all follow your lead!‎

I may well do that when I start putting everything back together but at the moment that’s a little way off. Did you use them to re-gas the pop-ups?