1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary - Half an Update November 2023

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jamescarruthers
480 Is my middle name
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by jamescarruthers » Thu Dec 26, 2019 10:19 pm

If you send in your old struts they can either recharge them or send you matching replacements.
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)

Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)

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Jay-Kay-Em
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Location: Huntingdon
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by Jay-Kay-Em » Mon Feb 17, 2020 10:36 pm

Hi all!

An update of misery really.. January really has been one step forward, two back.

At times, I have felt like the opposite of King Midas... whatever I touched, turned to a kind of brown powdery dust.

Rear Suspension Tear Down

Backing plates in a terrible state (fairly standard)... as were the stub axle bolts...

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Chances of that wheel speed sensor coming out? Erm, absolute zero... they didn't survive on either side.

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Had to cut the torque rods - the bolts were seized in the bushes. I think Cranna recently reported the same...

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Cutting off the outer core...

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Then finally cutting the bush off the axle mounted stud...

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One removed Panhard rod...

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Would you trust it? I wouldn't... suspiciously light as a feather... wall thickness seriously compromised. Original sent off to GizFAB for a pattern, and to manufacture a new, adjustable Panhard for the future Lesjöfors spring set.

Rear anti-roll bar bush clamps... corroded very bad and bendable like crêpe paper. For scrap...

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Here i'm measuring them because they are very similar to Renault items (i'm sure). I'm currently trawling Renault's part catalogue 'Dialogys' - swear I have seen them before. Will update when I have found a solution.

Rear spring seats in a shocking state...

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Plenty to do there. Spring seats to repair, parts to obtain and a long powder coat list.

Front Suspension Tear Down

Lower control arms with knuckles removed and struts removed...

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Separating the knuckles on the bench...

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Another wheel speed sensor, top snapped off already...

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... and further destroyed upon removal...

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Bearing removal next, so:

a) the knuckles can be blasted / painted and...
b) you can't fit new splash shields with the drive flanges in the way...

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McPherson strut teardown...

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Spring seat bearing rough, notchy and grease a horrible rusty brown...

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Spring seats for the 'powder coating required' box...

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Strut tops in a bad way, ballooned with corrosion...

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I have seen artefacts raised from the Titanic that look in better condition than these brake calipers...

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Subframe Removal

Following corrosion discoveries at Christmas, it was clear the engine was coming out. Perfect chance to get the subframe blasted / powder coated too. Removal first...

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Bushes have to be extracted if this is going in a blast cabinet / powder coat oven. Three came out just fine...

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The fourth not so much... so I turned to the power of fire :twisted:

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Powertrain Removal

From above or below, that is the question. Subframe was out the way so I had free choice. I read many, many threads on here and the opinion is definitely split 50/50. I think the deciding factor depends if you can raise the body high enough. If I had a ramp, it would come out from below just like the factory. Sadly I don't have a ramp, and man, access looked tight left/right from above...

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5mm left and right, not joking!

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All on a trolley, ready for cleaning & degreasing, water pump, cambelt, selection of gaskets, inlet manifold painting, turbo oil & feed pipes... All for another day...

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All the room I wanted now... except the ABS modulator is right in the way...

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Much conjecture here. Bearing in mind I have already destroyed all four wheel speed sensors, and that all four sensors are unique part numbers (why Volvo WHY!). One of the four sensors I just couldn't find new.

So the question was, should I keep and maintain this heavy, complicated block of alloy courtesy of ATE, together with the unobtainable parts. I checked the wiring diagrams as I know these later cars have TRACS. However, I couldn't find any relationship between the ABS and Engine ECU's and it appears TRACS doesn't reduce engine power - it merely brakes the spinning wheel. This suggests no harm in removal and that they are two unique systems. Whilst I am a stickler for originality I made the executive decision to cut the pipes, remove the modulator, put it in a box up in the loft just in case.

All my other cars are non-ABS so its no drama.

I therefore declare it will be a non-ABS car and I apologise to the purists out there. I will keep all parts just-in-case but will plumb all the new lines in a diagonal split. The car already has brake line pressure reducers by ATE which I shall retain to give that important front brake bias.

With the modulator out of the way, the corrosion problem was clear to see nearside...

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...and offside...

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I remember reading threads on here about wet nearside footwell carpets. Pages and pages of people chasing water leaks, sealing doors, sealing windows etc. Well check your footwells i'd say...!

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Is that daylight I see? Oh yes, with historic water staining...

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There is one seam - floor pan to wheel arch - that was particularly bad...

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Engine Removal Discoveries; Evaporative Emission Carbon Canister

Whilst poking around the wheel arches, my attention turned on the evaporative emission carbon canister.... the source of countless vacuum air leak it would appear...

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Bin for you, I have no desire to maintain this system....

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It will require some breather device at the tank to be decided. My TVR has a boot mounted tank that I have removed far too many times to mention. That has a breather and a 'roll-over protection valve' so I will just copy and paste the system over.

Engine Removal Discoveries; Turbo Coolant Pump

This clearly hadn't worked in many, many years. Windings open circuit and impeller seized...

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I hope the turbo hasn't suffered as a result.

Research ongoing for a replacement - many modern VAG cars have these now and plenty used on aBay. I'll see what I can find / adapt.

Engine Removal Discoveries; Rear Engine Mount

The rear engine mount had split from its base plate...

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Can't find an original/aftermarket mount anywhere. Measuring it up...

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I have downloaded a Corteco engine mount catalogue that has a picture of every engine mount they make. When i'm very bored one evening, I will look at 1000 engine mounts and see whats close enough to modify / adapt.

The engine mount bracket isn't too clever either...

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The section around the hole for said engine mount is cracked/bent. This is a standard power output car so not sure why its cracked so bad other than it might be a bit french. This needs v-grooving, welding and dressing, no drama.

Fuel tank removal next...

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Fuel tank heat shield seen better days - again one for the head scratch department - make my own when the time comes I guess...

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Fuel filter, brake pipes... all for scrap...

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Removing the Panhard rod bracket...

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This needs some welding after shot blasting... if I get anything back after a shot blast that is!

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We now have essentially a bare shell underneath front to back. We can have a good prod and poke, plus weld without fire risk.

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Someone has been here before me, because there is fresh underseal in the tool kit trough.. its been welded before...

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Sadly, they didn't cut out the old, just welded over. This was presumably for a 'get me through an MoT' by the last keeper. It's not pretty underneath, trust me...

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All needs cutting out and doing again.

Ground Zero!

End of January 2020 and we reached 'rock bottom' of taking things apart and finding more work. We are now at a place where there are no more horrors and the scale of work is known. Its quite a big scale admittedly :rofl:

The good thing about rock bottoms, is that everything after is a climb upwards. So here we go...

February 2020; Remedial Work Begins!

Rear Beam Spring Seats

Remove whats left...

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Measure, clean, measure again and mark...

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Get some tube, cut down, and CNC some circles (35mm and 75mm from memory)...

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Weld a captive nut on the smaller circle...

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Chase out the plastic bump stops...

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Weld the smallest circle and check relationship to the bump stops...

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Clean and position larger circle...

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Weld everything together...

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Test run with new spring seat rubber (still available!)...

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Test run with old spring and bump stops all bolted down...

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Very happy with that... when the beam is shot blasted and powder coated that'll look a treat.

Engine Bay Welding

A sneak preview of February's efforts...

Much cutting nearside....

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All cut out offside...

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Let the weld-a-thon commence...

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I think much of the corrosion looks worse than it is. Obviously anything 'holed' needs to be cut out and welded, but surface corrosion is cleaning up really nice.

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I think with good prep, Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, a decent primer and body schutz, all will be good.

Offside inner leg welded with captive anti-roll bar nut retained...

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Offside viewed from wheel arch...

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This is where my welding gets critiqued now! I enjoy welding, but I don't like interior fires or hot rocks dropping in my boots. My biggest fault is I use CO2 gas because its more economical. I could get it to look slightly prettier if I used an Argon mix.

On a lighter note...

Some good news now!

Did you know, complete, fully built, new (not recon) Turbo and 2.0 driveshafts are still available from SKF?

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Sure, not cheap, but they do look pretty. The way I see it, you have to buy up all available parts now, because you'll kick yourself when they're gone.

Took a trip to the Lakes, Wyboston and relieved this 440 of its seat belt pre-tensioners...

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And - amazingly - they have another 480 that has interacted with a post like object it would seem...

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Not much on it.. I just had an interior lamp and the Volvo badges off the speaker grilles. It also had immaculate door lock perimeter trims. I was told as soon as it arrived, three blokes descended and stripped it immediately... anyone on here?!?

Lastly, all my brake calipers have returned from refurbishment. I used BCS Calipers, also known as Calipology. Shot blasted, ultrasonic bath, powder coated, new seals, new CNC turned stainless pistons from billet and all with a Lifetime Warranty...

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Very pretty. The day these get fitted will be a milestone!

Right, I have a month of evening welding... no joke... next update mid-March with hopefully a sound, treated, painted floor front to back!

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Last edited by Jay-Kay-Em on Wed Dec 27, 2023 9:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jay-Kay-Em
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jamescarruthers
480 Is my middle name
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by jamescarruthers » Tue Feb 18, 2020 6:52 am

Wow! You've been incredibly busy and haven't given up hope after finding so much corrosion. Well done mate!

My callipers also went off to BCS‎ and are still looking good nearly two years later. 

The 480 at Lake's wasn't 3 blokes but me, Jaster and his girlfriend Katie! Bits have gone to three cars between us and also Jifflemon and MisterH's cars. ‎
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)

Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)

jifflemon
480 Is my middle name
Posts: 2464
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 11:03 am

Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by jifflemon » Tue Feb 18, 2020 9:18 am

Wowsers! THAT is an update! :shock:

Still incredibly envious of your garage... I'd love to be able to just "pop out" and have a couple of hours on a car. My workshop is half an hour away and not really puppy friendly!

BCS - Epic; Used them on 2 of my other cars and many years on, they're still looking excellent. The Blue turbo's calipers will be heading there too!

Many, many thanks for sending your panhard rod to Gizfab - I'm benefiting from your design!

Not sure about removing ABS though... MOT may be an issue. Given the ineptitude of many modern testers though, you could be ok.

Oh and painted floor? Have I spoke of the wonders of POR15 paint?

Onwards and upwards!

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Jay-Kay-Em
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by Jay-Kay-Em » Tue Feb 18, 2020 10:19 am

Some positive feedback for BCS there, that's reassuring.

Re. Mot and ABS removal.... Here's an excerpt from the GOV testers manual, Section 1.6 ABS...
If the ABS has been intentionally rendered inoperative, the whole system must be removed. This does not apply to sensor rings or other ABS components which are an integral part of another component, such as a brake disc or drive shaft.

It’s not permissible to remove or disable the ABS from a vehicle first used on or after 1 January 2010.
So we are good. The only thing you can retain are the toothed rings. Everything else must be gone. Rear axle lock up is the only concern. This is due to the forward weight transfer under heavy braking. Older vehicles had a mechanical load sensing valve acting on the relationship between rear axle and body height. This was used to determine rear brake bias dependant on laden/unladen. When ABS was introduced, this valve was ditched and ABS controlled rear axle lock up. However, I believe my 480 also controls rear brake bias with these valves 'in-line' by ATE. I had them before on a non-ABS Vauxhall Corsa-B I owned. That never locked the back axle... other than the handbrake :-D

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Compen ... 2061722889

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You can just see them on the modulator...

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I think what they do is allow front line pressure to raise at a greater rate than rear line pressure. These have been retained and I will plumb them in when I make my new hydraulic lines.

Anyway, see how we get on. If upon first drive she's rear axle happy, we will have to fit a motorsport bias valve somewhere.

Current strategy for the floor is good wire wheel prep, Hydrate 80, a decent primer and U-POL Gravitex applied via a schutz gun. My white garage walls don't stand a chance! :lol:
Last edited by Jay-Kay-Em on Wed Dec 27, 2023 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jay-Kay-Em
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jifflemon
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by jifflemon » Tue Feb 18, 2020 11:15 am

Ah most excellent news on the ABS, it's been a LONG time since I was a tester, so haven't kept up to date with "the book".

Gravitex is good, although I'm contemplating Raptor on mine, as it can be tinted to body colour! :rofl:

Alan 480
480 Is my middle name
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by Alan 480 » Tue Feb 18, 2020 12:49 pm

that is some serious cutting & welding.

but looking good, echo the 'lovely garage' :-( mine is at back door but rammed with cars & stuff

a labour of love?

I attacked the rear end of EVA (car) last night with a twisted wire thing on Angry grinder, not tooo much fresh air around rear arches, now coated with hammerite''s finest green rust remover, and it looks a lot better, back to shiney metal

it will need some chopped strand and a modicum of welding, I suspect the passenger side is worse after it's raking with a bumper in a car park


I'll start a project thread but trust me this is going to be 'how to keep it going for winter use' not a concours . . .. .
Alan

480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1

100
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by 100 » Mon Apr 20, 2020 9:56 am

You don't happen to remember or have the paint code for your wheels? I'd like to get mine refurbished shortly but also want to make sure the colour is correct!

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Jay-Kay-Em
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by Jay-Kay-Em » Mon Apr 20, 2020 5:30 pm

100 wrote:
Mon Apr 20, 2020 9:56 am
You don't happen to remember or have the paint code for your wheels? I'd like to get mine refurbished shortly but also want to make sure the colour is correct!
Hey 100 no sorry I don’t. I just remember it being Toyota related. I even dug out the company invoice but it’s not on there either. School boy error really on my part - but I don’t intend to kerb them. He says!

However, my colour was a laser scan of my centre caps.... so who is to say your centre caps are the same shade / faded / part number? My research of 400 centre caps is that it is a bit of a minefield. I can also show you two official Volvo publicity photos where the Taurus wheels are TOTALLY a different shade of silver.

My best advice would be to get your centre caps scanned too. Most body shops have a scanner and you’ll be 100% correct to your centre caps.
Jay-Kay-Em
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jifflemon
480 Is my middle name
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by jifflemon » Mon Apr 20, 2020 7:26 pm

or ask some nice man how the reprinted centrecap logos are coming along, so you can use any damn silver you please and do your centre caps at the same time.....

100
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by 100 » Tue Apr 21, 2020 1:14 pm

jifflemon wrote:
Mon Apr 20, 2020 7:26 pm
or ask some nice man how the reprinted centrecap logos are coming along, so you can use any damn silver you please and do your centre caps at the same time.....
:lol: How are those centre cap logos coming along?

But I like 'my' shade of silver, whatever that may be!
JKM wrote:My best advice would be to get your centre caps scanned too.
Yeah, I'll probably go down this route when the time comes, thanks anyway. Looking forward to your next update!

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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by Jay-Kay-Em » Sun May 03, 2020 7:00 pm

Hi all!

March-April 2020 progress report...

The Body Update

As usual, a massive under-estimation of the work required and the amount of steel needed. My best estimate is that this car had seen cosmetic wheel arch work possibly 8(?) years ago and didn’t look bad at all when I viewed it at sale. However, sitting around & body filler hides a lot of problems as we will find out...

So last report, welding the front chassis legs. These had to be terminated to the bulkhead internally without the hassle of dashboard removal. The car is basically a shell other than the dashboard. I made a fire and spatter shield of Bacofoil. Laying on your front, completely uncomfortable and very hot. Just like a human turkey wrapped in that Bacofoil! Not nice.

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Front end welding completed 7th March 2020.

Rear Panhard Beam

I had plans to take this to the shot blaster along with the subframe et al, but I was too embarrassed just looking at it! It was bad...

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To be fair it was just the top plate and corresponding flanges - the rest of the item was sound. Time to peel it open on a salvage mission...

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Cut a template from 3mm plate...

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Weld in all the captive nuts for the toolkit tray...

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Seam welded but in alternating 1" runs to avoid heat and it turning it into a banana...

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Old underseal strip and Hydrate80...

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When I Waxoyl the sill internals, I will also poke the wand inside this as it is now a closed box.

You might notice two extra tabs on there; basically the fuel tank strap support bracket was so rusty, it needed re-working off the car...

This is spot welded in, so spot welds drilled, removed...

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You might also notice the tool kit tray having no bottom! Yep, that went in the dustbin too.

Fuel tank strap support bracket was re-worked, stripped, Hydrate80 and painted. This will now be a bolt-in item which uses the panhard beam tabs as support.

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Torque Reaction Rod Brackets

Many problems at the back end.

The towing eye was removed with just one bolt and a sharp tug! Note the captive nut still attached! An attempt to tow would of been comical...

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Quite early on it was realised the brackets were junk...

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That and most the rear floor...

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Lots of cardboard templates & measurements made of their position. They didn't take much cutting. I needed to cut them off anyway because the torque rod bolts were seized inside. Lots of head scratching of what to do; fabricate my own the only answer.

A new addition to the tool collection... a friction chop saw. Wanted one for years and finally pulled the trigger. May help with a stainless exhaust at some stage. But first things first... buy lots of box section!

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Here I’m making the chassis runs and drilling holes for captive nuts. My brackets will be bolt on...

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Bracket housings being drilled...

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... and you end up with these pieces...

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So this is the idea, the rear chassis runner, the cheese wedge and the housing...

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Welding the cheese wedges...

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All ready for powder coating...

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I have given everything elongated bolt holes which should allow for some fore-aft adjustment.

Chassis runners welded in. Note internal captive nuts for towing eye, fuel tank neck and torque brackets...

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Welding in...

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Boot Floor

In the same area above the torque reaction brackets... again... bad. Both sides. Cut back to find good metal...

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Quite scary how much boot floor went missing!

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Template making...

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Cutting & placement...

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Really happy with that... nearside rear boot floor done...

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Same again with the offside boot floor (mirror image), spare wheel well and tool kit tray.

Rear Arches

Uh oh... this looks expensive...

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I kept looking at the price of these, considering they are 'only' bits of pressed tin...

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Anyway, due to the end of the sill intricacies, Skandix damaged my credit card again. I'll let you be the judge if the quality is worth £300...

They are meant to be based off a laser scan of a true car... but the contours weren't quite the same.. or uniform for that matter.

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So, offside rear, lets get cutting... it was bad...

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So what’s the first thing you do to a £150 piece of tin? Cut it up obviously!

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Offside rear complete...

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15 hours cutting, shaping, welding... all to be repeated on the other side!

Except its worse...

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Destruction...

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480 Dustpan number 64...

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Inner AND outer sills this time, a tremendous amount cut back along the sill for access...

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These are strange... they are not drain plugs but funny shaped blanking plugs for the sills...

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Anyway, positions measured and carried over for originality...

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Whilst poking around in the rear wheel arches, the rear seatbelt mountings caught my eye. Started poking... nope, toast...

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Cut out, but the strengthening braces retained and welded onto new a new base...

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Further welding to each and every central floor outrigger...

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Converting cardboard templates to repair sections...

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Front Wings

Any other car you'd just get a pair of pattern wings off the shelf right? Errr I wish! Crazy that you can buy Volvo wings for a '61 car, but not '94 car. When the 480 is worth P1800 money I guess this will change.

Bottom corners toast...

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Bottoms of the wings 'scratch built' including any holes for the wheel arch liner fixings...

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Rust Proofing

First stage... yet more Bilt Hamber Hydrate80...

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Everything textured with a 60 grit 'flappy disc', two coats in alternating patterns, for both new welded metal...

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... and the non-welded sections after prepping back...

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Second stage... Bilt Hamber 2K Epoxy Primer... mixed 4:1 by weight...

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Third stage... seams sealed with U-Pol grey stripe...

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Including internals, masked, seam sealed and painted. I present to you my fabricated tool tray ready for seam sealer!

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Internals finished (including front footwells that I forgot to photograph)...

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Front chassis legs painted...

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Then, I gave my car a cardboard skirt to protect my garage walls... then masked the wheel arch lips...

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Fourth and final stage... pre-heat my U-Pol Gravitex...

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Then apply with my Schutz gun & compressor at about 50-60 PSI.

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Then, swap the gun to Waxoyl (clear) for internals and box sections...

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Here is an internal shot of my 'injected' panhard rod beam... shouldn’t rot out again in a hurry...

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Now the visible bodywork... fill, sand, prime... fill, sand, prime... fill, sand, prime...

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I am no bodywork expert because I just don’t have the patience. You are always waiting for something to dry when I just want to crack on!

Primarily this will be the work of the bodyshop but I would like to make in-roads to reduce my paintshop bill. The less said about that forthcoming invoice the better.

The rubbing strips were getting in the way, so thought 'just whip them off'. Errr no. Stuck on with the same evil black stuff the rear lights were held on with...

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The driver’s door rubbing strip was actually dated 1995... it’s a 1994 car... so someone has been here before me. This was proven with the discovery of yet more rust where someone had dug off the original strips many moons ago...

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Sills and wing bottoms to stoneguard...

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Not bad for scratch built if I say so myself...

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So there we are! Felt really good bolting up the Panhard beam!

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Body 'done' as far as I can take it, ready for the bodyshop...

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Garage finally getting a well deserved sweep out...

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I know it doesn't look very pretty aesthetically, but hopefully I have taken a considerable chunk out of my paintshop bill; that was the goal.

A month late, but it's where I wanted to be. I now have a sound & solid shell that will not need any attention for many years to come.

See you for the next update. Hopefully my chosen powder coater will emerge from Covid lockdown!

All the best.

JKM
Last edited by Jay-Kay-Em on Wed Dec 27, 2023 9:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Jay-Kay-Em
-------------------------------------
Click here for My 480 Turbo Diary
Click here for My Cars

jifflemon
480 Is my middle name
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by jifflemon » Sun May 03, 2020 7:19 pm

I need you to do 2 things:

1) Keep posting updates! Because wow, you're smashing it! :shock:

2) Waxoyl; Take the tin, get it really, really hot, then (and this is the important bit), pick it up and hurl it as far away as humanly possible. Then, hunt it down and burn it, just to be sure.

Sadly, its on the great list of "once-great" products, that have become useless since the EU banned all decent chemicals.

My personal weapon of choice, is Bilt Hambers excellent S-50, which comes in 5 litre cans too.

If you're in a tool buying mood, pair it with a Sealey SG19 gun and your cavity's will definitely remain rot free.

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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by 100 » Mon May 04, 2020 8:05 am

What a mess, but what amazing work; I wish I had the capability to do this!

How did you achieve the rubbery mottled surface along the lower sill, as I am just about to try and do this with Dinitrol 447.

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jamescarruthers
480 Is my middle name
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by jamescarruthers » Mon May 04, 2020 9:15 am

Wow, this is so impressive! Well done!

Do I remember that you are based in Cambridgeshire too? If so, I can tell you that Morley Brothers in Milton are still open for powder coating work. I dropped a wheel off about two weeks ago and it was back in 7 days.
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)

Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)

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Jay-Kay-Em
480 Rookie
Posts: 428
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:42 pm
Location: Huntingdon
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by Jay-Kay-Em » Mon May 04, 2020 4:24 pm

jifflemon wrote:
Hatred for waxoyl
Noted Jiff; I did junk KURUST (another Hammerite product) for Hydrate80. I had the waxoyl from another job. It's all gone now. No more I promise!
100 wrote:
Mottled effect
Hi 100; its U-POL Gravitex stonegaurd (any stoneguard will do as long as its over-paintable). I use a schutz gun (pictured) at 50psi.
jamescarruthers wrote:
Morley Brothers
Yes James that's correct - Alconbury now. That's spooky; rang Morleys this morning!

I used Sandy Powder Coatings previously (St. Neots), but the good thing about Morleys is they blast AND paint. Just need to call by... its essential travel right? :wink:

arthuy
Advanced 480 rookie
Posts: 562
Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:02 pm

Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by arthuy » Mon May 04, 2020 6:23 pm

Really amazing work, it is good to see people putting the time and effort in to the 480.

I have had the welder out on my rear and it is really demoralising when every bit you touch with the torch is so this it melts away.

Not sure I am impressed with the panels but at least they are available, hopefully a decent thickness. Not sure if Hadrian panels is still on the go but some of the arches they made were so thin it didnt take long for them to rust.

cranna21
Can tell where the 480 was built
Posts: 313
Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2014 3:44 pm
Location: Aberdeenshire, Huntly

Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by cranna21 » Wed Jul 08, 2020 2:54 pm

Ignore me asking what your solution was on my thread, I did the sensible thing and came and looked!

I like your solution! something I could have done myself thanks to also requiring the chassis leg sections. interesting to see everyone's homebrew depictions of "what was Volvo thinking, why did they make my car from pastry and expect it to last, I can do this far better where's my grinder and 3mm plate" :lol:
'91 480 ES 2.0l 16v 'Williams' Conversion - 212bhp/230nm
'90 940 GL 2.0l Estate
'08 XC90 D5 SE Premium

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Jay-Kay-Em
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Posts: 428
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:42 pm
Location: Huntingdon
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Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by Jay-Kay-Em » Wed Jul 08, 2020 10:22 pm

cranna21 wrote:
Wed Jul 08, 2020 2:54 pm
Ignore me asking what your solution was on my thread, I did the sensible thing and came and looked!

I like your solution! something I could have done myself thanks to also requiring the chassis leg sections. interesting to see everyone's homebrew depictions of "what was Volvo thinking, why did they make my car from pastry and expect it to last, I can do this far better where's my grinder and 3mm plate" :lol:
My grandma's pastry was tougher :rofl:

Such a hostile area as its in direct line-of-fire from wheel debris.

Bit of a sneak preview now everything is powder coated, so offered it up for a test run...

Image

Still no idea if its all going to work!
Jay-Kay-Em
-------------------------------------
Click here for My 480 Turbo Diary
Click here for My Cars

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dcwalker
480 Is my middle name
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Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:30 pm
Location: York

Re: 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Diary

Post by dcwalker » Thu Jul 09, 2020 8:24 am

Fantastic job! :D

David
Current: 1994 480 GT, 1996 460 CD & 1997 440 LE with lots of optional extras & 2007 V50 SE Sport
Previous: Celebration 331 (re-homed with Richard S), Celebration 467 (returned to Martin Mc); Celebration 346 (re-homed with Alan480); Celebration 269 (scrapped abandoned project), Celebration 73 (sold on after 6 years), 1992 ES, 1988 ES - and numerous other non-480 Volvos!

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