480 turbo CC Bello

[jifflemon]

Ok, I'd recommend the following:

1. Undo the handbrake adjuster at the central point, so that the cables are completely off.
2. Unbolt the calipers, remove the inner pad.
3. Wind back the calipers - This means you have use pressure on the piston to push, as well as turning the internal adjuster.
4. once the Piston is as far back as possible, turn the internal adjuster until you feel resistance.
5. Put pads back in, refit caliper.
6. press brake pedal very slowly, several times until the pads are seated hard against the disc.
7. put the wheels on - spin wheel and adjust internal adjuster until the wheel locks, now back off adjuster until there is slight resistance when turning wheel.
8. Adjust handbrake until the cable just about seats into the arm on the caliper.

That should be it.

[Alan 480]

Maybe not an issue but I had the SHORT single cable that links handbrake to the 'balance bar' become a little sticky, VERY difficult to change! lots of grease applied made a difference

The springs at the caliper 'should' be sufficient to pull the cable back to the 'off position' when central adjuster unde rcar is 'free', but if the cables are corroded then this might not work properly, and then the cam isn't against the stop (the short vertical pin about 3-4mm in diameter)

[Baxter]

Thank you very much for your detailed information, it helped a lot.

With the drescription it was easier than expected.

The cables weren't corroded so the lever was on off position without problem. I did the procedure without removing the cable from the caliper lever. The lever was on off position.

Following JIff description, If I understood correctly, what I did was to reset the position of the handbrake pads.

Everything went ok except for the allen adjusting right screw that when rotating for locking the disc, it seemed to rotate freely like a worn thread.

I could find a point where it locked the disc but seemed a bit weak. Maybe the thread is broken but it unscrewed normally.

After this I rised the hand brake lever until three clicks and then screwed the bottom central screw until locked the wheels. This is not exactly the point number 8, maybe is wrong but the hand brake seems to work. The idea was to have three or four clicks before locking.







Finally was a few hours but it was vert useful, apart from adjusting the handlever, one of the pads was more worn-out than the others, probably the carriers or the sliders needed grease and now that is solved.

[Alan 480]

Hector I think you need to get the BOTTOM calipers to 'just' scuff the disc THEN adjust the central balance bar, otherwise you have lost 'parking brake effciency' and it will usually fail a UK MoT

best to put the wheel on to centralise the disc (or a couple of big washers/nuts to clamp the disc with the wheel bolts if not enough thread on the bolts) the wheel gives you a better feel of any drag/resistance

I managed to remove the disc WITHOUT removing the caliper and this allowed me to carefully file the sliders,and that helps

The disc if slightlty worn will just tilt away, but ONLY with the disc bolts exactly lined up with the caliper or at 45 degrees, I can't rememebr which

[Baxter]

Hector I think you need to get the BOTTOM calipers to 'just' scuff the disc THEN adjust the central balance bar, otherwise you have lost 'parking brake effciency' and it will usually fail a UK MoT

best to put the wheel on to centralise the disc (or a couple of big washers/nuts to clamp the disc with the wheel bolts if not enough thread on the bolts) the wheel gives you a better feel of any drag/resistance

I managed to remove the disc WITHOUT removing the caliper and this allowed me to carefully file the sliders,and that helps

The disc if slightlty worn will just tilt away, but ONLY with the disc bolts exactly lined up with the caliper or at 45 degrees, I can't rememebr which

Yes Alan, I did that way but without the wheel on position. I screwed the internal allen screw until the disc was locked and then unscrew half turn.
Then rised the hand brake three clicks and then screwed the bottom central nut until the disc was locked.

I undertand that I have to compensate wear with the allen screw on the caliper and don't touch the central bottom nut on the cable.

I assume that maybe I have to turn in a bit the allen screw after a few kilometers if the handle goes too high but now it works.
This system is the same that in the SAAB C900.

[Alan 480]

Yes Alan, I did that way but without the wheel on position. I screwed the internal allen screw until the disc was locked and then unscrew half turn.
Then rised the hand brake three clicks and then screwed the bottom central nut until the disc was locked.

I undertand that I have to compensate wear with the allen screw on the caliper and don't touch the central bottom nut on the cable.

I assume that maybe I have to turn in a bit the allen screw after a few kilometers if the handle goes too high but now it works.
This system is the same that in the SAAB C900.

OK ,all good then, not wish to 'teach grannies how to suck eggs' (I doubt that will translate?)
I usually 'just take up the slack' and assume it will be about three or four clicks will hold
BTW the SS1 is 'on' or 'off' one click will hold it, two clicks are possible if feeling strong

[Baxter]

Well, you never know where the problem comes. It can be behind a rusted screw or a non expected broken part. Grannies knows a lot but also lose memory and reflex with time
The good thing is that after the first time everything is more straighforward.

Another step forward has been to mount the door panel after glueing the vinil. I added a couple of trim bits missing. Now the panel remains in position, only the handle frame moves with the handle, probably some clips broken, not a big issue.





At this point I have again a working car in similar situation than seven years ago. Time to improve little things.

[Baxter]

The paint doesn't like the wet garage, or is a planned obsolescence paint.

[Alan 480]

Is that the bonnet (hood) ? GRP can suffer from moisture ingress, ask me how I know having had a selection of Reliants

[Baxter]

Is that the bonnet (hood) ? GRP can suffer from moisture ingress, ask me how I know having had a selection of Reliants

It is the rear bumper. But it has appear on different parts, steel body and plastic. Bad paint or bad reaction with moisture on parts repainted

What is GRP?

[royhedger]

Glass Reinforced Plastic

[Baxter]

Time to to solve the movement of the gas wire which its movement far from smooth. It moves by steps.
Adding oil to the wire and the pedal axis but no luck for the moment. Strange because is pretty simple.

[mandi]

Well, you never know where the problem comes. It can be behind a rusted screw or a non expected broken part. Grannies knows a lot but also lose memory and reflex with time
The good thing is that after the first time everything is more straighforward.

Another step forward has been to mount the door panel after glueing the vinil. I added a couple of trim bits missing. Now the panel remains in position, only the handle frame moves with the handle, probably some clips broken, not a big issue.


At this point I have again a working car in similar situation than seven years ago. Time to improve little things.

hello,

you are mentioning here glueing the vinil of the doorpanels. did you take or do something special?
which glue you took? did you heat the vinil for better forming? any special recommendation?

my rear door panels need service too - there are big spots (in roundings and curves ) where the vinil is losened.

thanks
mandi

[Baxter]

I started with a thick glue similar to silicone but way more stronger, similar to silcaflex, I like it because is flexible and very strong so probably ages well but at end I had to use contact adhesive where access was difficult. I added a lot of contact glue and then let the glue flow and spill through the unglued vinyl where it was impossible to apply.
The vinyl had shrinked a lot so was necessary to heat up with a hairdryer or heat gun. it becomes very flexible. It doesn't need too much heat, better to go by steps. I used a heat gun but I think hairdryer is enough.

The difficult part is to maintain the pressure on the vinyl until the glue is dry. The directions for contact adhesive says that is necessary to apply that glue on both parts, wait until is dry and then apply pressure for glueing but I don't trust on this method.
So, rag or cloth with pressure for a few hours would make the job.

[mandi]

good job hector

i thought trying some glue of shoemakers used for sticking soles. is much more faster and stronger.
heating by heatgun and weigh down for hours by some foams.

I'l try based on your recommendations.
coming back afterwards how it working ...

[Baxter]

Good luck Mandi, yes the glue is the key. Extreme temperatures and the vinyl constantly in tension is a challenge. A quality glue of shoemakers could do the job.

The good thing is that we can repeat the process any time needed in the future.