The Wolf roams

[jamescarruthers]

Loom needs transposed with the engine. Epic job which was done on here years ago and I think never to be repeated as kt was so difficult. Connectors made off after going through holes all over the place.

Use the search to find this

[WhiteWolf]

Loom needs transposed with the engine. Epic job which was done on here years ago and I think never to be repeated as kt was so difficult. Connectors made off after going through holes all over the place.

Use the search to find this

Thank you for the warning...

I have decided that I will just get my mate to weld the bits on the turbo and I will go from there

The previous trouble with me damaging my cluster doesn't fill me with great confidence.

When I was stripping the auto turbo the loom inside was on a plug system.. I thought it would be unplug the engine side and dash and reconnect up.. Then there's the Abs etc etc.. Not a job for me

The turbo isn't that bad to be honest. It's not serious rust.. A lot of surface rust that has been addressed for now with rust in peace.. It's stopped it getting worse...

So basically the car is ok in the shell it is.. It works..

To be continued...

[WhiteWolf]

It's still running...

I've found out today it doesn't like skips

I reversed into one tonight in my mates yard.. Luckily though it's only put a scratch on the side and took the back window out.. I have read up how to remove the trim above the window and have a spare on the Es..

It shall be done in the morning..

I have ordered a distributor and rotor arm.. It's a Motoquip one.. £8 with £2.99 p+p off of eBay bargain..
Once that is one the car I can narrow down the other faults.. The main one I believe is the owner

To be continued...

[WhiteWolf]

The distributor and arm was delivered last week and i fitted it to the car.. It has improved the starting of the car drastically and the car has stopped cutting out when i floor it...

Although there is still a problem with the boost.. in first ot struggles to get past 4000rpm when floored.. It will do it easily with less pedal.. The turbo works though...

I have checked the resistance on the boost controller and it is at 28ohms..
It idles lovely and I can drive around at 1000rpm easily all through the gears..

With the wastegate actuator disabled it boosts crazily which I regulate with my foot of course..

All pipes are attached etcr

Even though I never floor if when cold it ia a lot more responsive.. I know fuel is increased when the engine is cold.. Does this mean I need to increase the fuel the engine is getting...

In the next few weeks I am sorting the exhaust out.. The cat is coming off as it was registered on the 1st of january 1992 so misses the 1st of August deadline.. I am also taking the es Backbox of it which I am sure is causing most of my acceleration problems....
It has a turbo pipe which is 57mm going to a 47mm connection and backbox.. Bad I know.. Im sure this will reduce the turbos punch...

Any help would be greatful....



I also have all my lights back on the instrument cluster as well thanks to Glasgow Jim

[WhiteWolf]

I just want to add the wastegate is always attached.. i just disabled it to test..

The car is puzzling me though.. Its very touch and go wether the power is there.. Which is a shame.. As soon the exhaust is sorted I will rolling road it..
I hope thats the problem..

In the next few weeks I am going to replace the tailgate and sunroof.. The loom is damaged on the tailgate and the sunroof doesnt close properly..

I will also start buying all the parts to replace underneath with...
steering rack, wheel bearings, drop-links, ball joints, tie rod ends, wishbones etc everything basically....

to be continued..

[WhiteWolf]

Well its been fun and games these last few days I tell you..
I started the car the other day and all the warning lights show up as usual.. Abs, oil pressure light.. They NORMALLY go off after checking relevant pressure and levels etc....
That morning was different... The warning light with an exclamation mark stayed lit.. I now know that its for brake fluid level..
I didnt know at the time, everything was fine.. Coolant, oil etc.. I checked the manual and found the explanation and checked the level.. It had gone down about an inch.. It was just above the max... Now it was half way between max and min

Brakes still fine...

Today I checked the level and it had dropped to min or just below.. I drove the car, brakes still fine to a shop and bought some brake fluid and topped it up to the correct level.. When I arrived home I check the level.. It hadnt reduced it had increased again... The brakes are ok... I need to get them looked over though....

The next thing is the Idle control valve which is puzzling to say the least...
It idles fine apart from a hard run and it will bounce a bit between 800 and 1100 ish...
I decided to unplug it today and it made no difference at all.. I left it unpluged and the car seemed more responsive when I drove it.. The only negative thing is it sometimes stayed at 1000rpm instead of dropping to
this be one of my problems with boost... Is there a blockage somewhere..

Any help appreciated.. Cheers...

[WhiteWolf]

Well its been fun and games these last few days I tell you..
I started the car the other day and all the warning lights show up as usual.. Abs, oil pressure light.. They NORMALLY go off after checking relevant pressure and levels etc....
That morning was different... The warning light with an exclamation mark stayed lit.. I now know that its for brake fluid level..
I didnt know at the time, everything was fine.. Coolant, oil etc.. I checked the manual and found the explanation and checked the level.. It had gone down about an inch.. It was just above the max... Now it was half way between max and min

Brakes still fine...

Today I checked the level and it had dropped to min or just below.. I drove the car, brakes still fine to a shop and bought some brake fluid and topped it up to the correct level.. When I arrived home I check the level.. It hadnt reduced it had increased again... The brakes are ok... I need to get them looked over though....

The next thing is the Idle control valve which is puzzling to say the least...
It idles fine apart from a hard run and it will bounce a bit between 800 and 1100 ish...
I decided to unplug it today and it made no difference at all.. I left it unpluged and the car seemed more responsive when I drove it.. The only negative thing is it sometimes stayed at 1000rpm instead of dropping to
this be one of my problems with boost... Is there a blockage somewhere..

Any help appreciated.. Cheers...

[WhiteWolf]

I need to correct something...
The idle valve does work..When i went to the car it started and the revs were at about 500rpm haha It does work...

I decided to open the airbox near to the wing and wedge it open about half an inch... It thas made a dramatic improvement.. Its sounds a lot better as well... It seems to pick up better..
I turned the resistance up on the Maf as well about half a turn..
There is no smell of fuel either which I had before..
As soon as I open up the exhaust I know all the power will be there..

to be continued....

[WhiteWolf]

The car continues to start

My multimetre was left on and the battery had died.. I had been tampering with my airflow metre... I replaced the battery and tested the value of the metre and it was 389ohms...

I put it to 530ohms and it feels a lot better...

The reason I have been adjusting the values is there has been a popping normally when I come off the pedal.. from the exhaust that is..

Through reading the forum I have read that my dumpvalve could be bad.. I was advised to keep an eye on it...

What I read amazed me.... I read that the popping... juddering when coming off the gas and the fluttering sound when coming off the gas disaapeared when the person changed it for the uprated one...
This will be repalced asap...

I was trying to lean the car a bit because I thought it was overfuelling..

I decided to also run the car with the standard ecu... I then took it straight out and put the roboumod back in...

[WhiteWolf]

I also inspected the idle valve...

It looks like its had work done to the pipes.. It has a dump valve attached to the piping which is bigger in size than the standard piping....
It has some clear piping going back to the manifiold..At the other end it is connected on a little plastic t juntion. which goes back to the dumo valve..
I also
I will take photos soon

[jamesy12345]

maybe this mod mate

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/forum/v ... 24&t=19542

[WhiteWolf]

That looks like the one mate...
Ive just read it and it makes sense whats been done.. To be honest Ive never had major problems with my idle apart from a period where my accelerator cable was sticking...

I need to sort my boost out though.. Its fine but sometimes it just pins me in my seat... I believe that should be happening all the time..

I shall have another look at it.. Test all the sensor values etc..

[WhiteWolf]

Well I have been fiddling with the car and I read up how to adjust the throttle body idle bypass screw...
It was fully tightened... When I connected the bypass for idle valve the revs dropped to 500rpm... Nearly cutting out....
I did as advised and adjusted it so the revs were at 700rpm...
There was a bigger growl from the engine and the pickup is dramatically improved... It was a suprise...

I really cant wait until summer so I can get grip in 1,2 and third gear haha

The dumpvalve i thought had been replaced at the front is the old style.. Its just all the piping has been renewed and clipped... So iI cant vouch for the Mod mentioned above....

A bonus though is the dump valve near the turbo is an uptated one I believe.. Unless the bosche one looks identical to the stock one.....


The acceleration has really improved over the past few days...

I believe Im winning

[WhiteWolf]

I had my brakes checked yesterday because of a fluid leak from the nsr caliper.. The fluid was leaking quite badly from the seal on the piston..
Luckily for me I have an Es which is SADLY turning into a spares car.. Im gutted.. It only has 73,000 verified on the clock.. I may try and save it

I took the caliper off myself which was a tricky job.. For me anyway..
I took the calliper with half the cable still attached to my mate who put it on my car..
The brakes were good before. They are excellent now..

Had the sunroof up today because of the nice weather forgetting it doesnt close properly..
Thats the next job replacing the whole unit for my spare one...

[glasgowjim]

It doesnt close properly (sunroof) I assume that it closes on one side but not the other. If this is the case then it is only a small plastic connector rod about 10cm long that needs replaced. Which is a 10 minute job but if its your first time allow half an hour.

[glasgowjim]

try reading these

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/forum/v ... 17&t=34585

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/forum/v ... 17&t=33318

and this one ..

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/volvo48 ... unroof_fix

note however that is says to unscrew the little allen bolt THIS IS WRONG screw it inwards etc clockwise to release the roof.

[balto8]

This guy makes the coupling pieces both in plastic and metal. Plastic for 12€each. Stainless steel for 40€ each.

I had given all kind of plastic material replicas so many chances that I had to go for steel ones. 90€ p&p included. I have passed this page on my car forever. I would spend that money again.

http://www.shapeways.com/product/479CFH ... d=57487159

As Jim warns you, you don't need to rip the moonroof apart to fix it. Just replacing the coupling piece does the job and it's done in 30 minutes once you get to know the system. Remeber that the hex bolts that fix the crystal itself screw counteclockwise and unscrew clockwise. This is important, you might end up breaking one of theese and it would be a drama. I have some spares for that though ( I have spares for the entire damm moonroof). Remember also to have some grease at hand to lubricate the hole thing and give the systema a few forward and backwards rounds before you put the crystal back on top.

[balto8]

Here

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/forum/v ... of#p208010

[WhiteWolf]

cheers for the replies guys....

It would be a lot easier than stripping sun visors, headlining etc... I shall have a good read in the next few days...

I have fitted an MBC on it today.....

sometimes the car pins me back in the seat.. Most of the time it doesnt though... The turbo boosts up.... I shall see tonight... I dont want excessive boost... Just a bit more and regular as well. Not when it feels like it...
If I disable the wastegate it boosts so fast its crazy... I want it in the middle of wastegate/no wastegate..

A bad thing I noticed today was a spot of oil when i took the pipe off of the actuator... Not a good sign... I have never noticed it before.. seals probaly

[WhiteWolf]

Im just using the MBC to fault find...