The Wolf roams

[WhiteWolf]

Thank you for the info...

I went to the Es today and removed the clusters.. I plugged them into the turbo and half of it lit up.. The halogen bulb has also gone in these.. I also noticed the seatbelt warning light came on..
I replaced the blown bulbs out of the turbo and checked all the smaller bulbs..
I plugged my turbo cluster back in and switched it on and thankfully it lit up.. Obviously no info centre though..

The rev counter still works

To be continued no doubt...

[WhiteWolf]

Today I decided to be even braver after my disaster with the clusters and change my squealing alternator.. It's gradually got worse over the weeks..
I went to the Es and stripped it of its alternator which I vaguely remembered worked for the short time the es was running..
I removed it from the car and to my untrained eye looked ok.. More the turning of the wheel..
All was ok...
It was time to tackle the turbo again.. I stripped the wires off the back and taped one of the bunch together.. It also has a black box on the alternator.. I'm assuming this is the famous MEGAFUSE..
With the wires off I undid the tensioner bolt.. That wave nightmare. It had rusted tight... With the sun setting I tried to hurry things up which went a bit pear shaped to say the least.. I finally won the battle and undid the main bolt holding it to the engine and pulled it out of the engine bay..
On first glance there was a lot of rust on the wheel..
I grabbed the replacement alternator and fitted it in the car and put the main bolt in... The sun was now seriously setting.. I thought it's only the tensioner bolt to put back in...
45minutes later and I still couldn't line the blasted thing up.. My phone died so I didn't have any light I nearly gave up for the day.. A quick 10 minute break and a gift of a torch I proceeded to put the bolt in, out,in,out,in,out etc
It finally went in correctly and I could of danced until 6 in the morning..
I put the wires back on the alternator correctly...
I went to start the car with my fingers crossed.. I started it and it squealed for a second, it must of been the belt settling again...
The noise has gone
My neighbours will like me again...
I took it on a 20 minute drive and I must say the peace is nice.. The battery gauge looks healthier as well... It used to drop down a lot when the heavy electrics were on...

That's the battle of the day done...

One thing I noticed the engine feels very unstable when I moved the alternator.. I will have to check the engine mounts....

Saying that soon I will replace the steering rack and ball joints etc etc

[WhiteWolf]

The alternator has stopped squealing, as bad...
When the car starts up the battery gauge goes to just under the red... More than the other alternator.. Obviously when I put the lights on it dips a bit but when I put the heater on full it goes about half way on the gauge.. When it's down it will squeal a little bit before coming back up to near the red.. It sounds like the belt regripping.. Maybe I need to tighten the belt a little.. Maybe I need to adjust the idle a little although she seems fine..
It was really cold today so when I started her she ticked over at 1200rpm for a few minutes, the to 1000rpm then dropped to about 800rpm.. I'm sure that's right.. The dash under the 1..
So I know the cold start works ok..

Could my regulator be playing up.. Sometimes the battery gauge will flick up and down quickly.. I suppose that is linked to the revs.. Although the revs don't fluctuate that much...

Another thing that was puzzling me was how when I change gear quickly with brisk revs it only looses about 200rpm.
Say I change gear in 2nd at 4000rpm it will drop straight into 3rd at 3800rpm..
I suppose others do this but the videos I've looked on YouTube of 480 turbos accelerating if they change at 5000rpm it drops down at least 1000rpm maybe 1200rpm..
When it's on form the car is scarily fast.. There's a few things I want to sort before getting it on a rolling road..

Namely this cool I have sitting in my kitchen
To be continued....

[jamescarruthers]

Is squealing not a loose belt?

[brinkie]

When was the last time you changed the V-ribbed belts? They cost around a tenner, unless you have aircon, then you'll need a second one, which cost just over a fiver. Just put new ones in and make sure the tension is right. Also, try and measure the battery voltage right on the battery with a digital multimeter, you should measure 13.5 up to 15 Volt at 800 rpm idling without load (i.e. no lights on, no fans running etc.) and you should measure 14-15 Volt at 2500 rpm with 30 Amp load (e.g. headlights on and fan running at full speed). If so, you alternator is doing just fine.

[WhiteWolf]

Thanks for the information...
With your advice I went to the car yesterday to get the multimetre out of the boot.. I then realised I had left it on
At idle with no load it sits nicely under 16v on the gauge.. Even under load it sits nicely... When I put the fan on it will dip until I accelerate or touch the Revs..
The alternator is fine though by the looks of things..

I haven't changed no belts although I suspect they should be done..
The previous owner had spent a ton of money getting it running right..
I will change them asap though.. Along with the cambelt.

I need to check the tension on the belt.. I will read Haynes for advice on the tension level...

[WhiteWolf]

I decided to change the coil on my turbo today as it doesn't really like going over 4000rpm under load.. Sometimes it will just die.. I put my foot down and it just dies at 4000rpm with a lot of popping from the exhaust.. It doesn't even bump start.. I used to have to pull over and restart it.. I soon realised I could just whilst rolling turn the ignition on and off and it would start again..

Anyways I removed my coil an replaced it with a spare I have.. I connected all the wires and turned her on.. She started thankfully, I didn't want to damage the car more which is becoming a normality
I took her out for a drive, obviously been 3pm there are a lot of people about so it was 20mph everywhere... The car does feel a lot smoother.. In first it got past 4000rpm with ease then it was time to brake.. It did cut out once when I accelerated on the bypass.. I had it in 2nd and it got upto 4000rpm and then it stopped pulling.. The engine did not die though.. I need to take the distributor off and check the condition.. I didn't have time today due to the sun disappearing...

What I didn't also do was reset Robous ecu.. I should have done that after I'd changed the coil.
Back out later when it's quieter...

Also what I've noticed is my coolant level had stayed stable for months now which is a bonus

I need to correct what I said about gear changes as well...
I said when I quick shift it only drops 200rpm.. I meant 400rpm..


To be continued

[WhiteWolf]

I also failed to mentioned the car seems to rev more freely with the replacement coil fitted.. Once I had warmed it it bounced off the limiter.. Before it used to really slowly do it..

[WhiteWolf]

Well I've just been out in her and the same thing has happened... Not as bad though.. It revved up to 5000rpm no problems better than before.. The problem seems worse on WOT if It's halfway it seems to be ok..
Obviously I have to check the distributor and rotor and condition of the spark plugs.. I will be on it tommorow..
It feels like it's the fuel struggling when it was in 3rd gear between 3500-5000rpm it was stopping and starting basically whilst accelerating..

It also died when I down geared it into second again.. There was a lot of popping again..
I will reset the Ecu and also turn the Maf back to where it was this morning.. To be honest I don't know why I turned it up.. It's been running good.. No smell of fuel coming through the vents..

To be continued...

[WhiteWolf]

I decided to inspect the plugs and distributor today..

I should of done it sooner is all I can say

All the plugs were oily and also smelt of fuel.. Also they were black.. I've cleaned them up for now.. They will be replaced...

On one of my spark plug leads there is a break in the insulation or the insulation is breaking down..
Also all the leads were tangled.. Which Robou advised me to check as well.. They should have spacers and be as far away from the engine as possible..

I took the distributor cap off and there was green corrosion on some of them.. I think there is only one decent point in the cap.. The rest are nearly flat.. Rotor arm looked ok.. Although it does look like water may have entered at one point or at least moisture..
I also found a crack on it were it attaches to the engine, it's were the bolt goes..

That's a few things on the shopping list...

Anyway I cleaned the plugs and gently filed them down along with the cap.. Cleaned it with wd40 and wiped it out...
I also tighten the alternator belt... Not even a sound now which is a bonus...

Anyway I took the car out and the difference is very noticeable..

It still struggles slightly at high revs but that is expected with the condition of the ignition system..

The coolant level is not loosing a mm and the revs are working which has been a real help

[WhiteWolf]

I've just read some things on spark plugs..
Mine been carbon covered is the mixture is to rich or the ignition is not reaching full voltage.. I don't know if that causes it or leads to it though...

The oil is a worry though... It could be worn Pistons at the worst or a problem with the crankcase pressure at best..

Oh well....

To be continued...

[WhiteWolf]

What I've just realised is the oil wasn't actually on the spark plugs themselves.. It was more on the threading which probably happened when I took them out.. The plugs themselves were dry..
To be continued...

[Baxter]

You could check the health of the pistons with a gauge pressure tester. It's cheap and gives the right compression on each cylinder.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOMOTIVE-PE ... XQDDZR1Cps

[WhiteWolf]

Thanks for the link, I will certainly purchase one or get someone who's got one to test it...

I've been out in the car again and it's so much smoother.. I know it will improve a 1000% when I replace the ignition components..

The lack of squealing is a pleasure.. I suppose my neighbours and local pets are enjoying this new found peace..



The next step is to sort the leaks out...

The rubber along the roof is not a waterproof seal any more...

Can this be replaced or shall I just silicone it back to a waterproof seal...

At some point this year she will be stripped and welded.. All rust shall be banished..

It's either that or transfer everything over to the Es shell which apart from surface rust on the arches is perfect.. Apart from the backlights she's watertight..

I will check the legality of reshelling the car as I believe it has to go through some official checks.. Depends which is cheaper which will probably be the welding.. Rather than full transplant...

To be continued....

[Baxter]

There's an special silicone for that. It doesn't get dry and it's watertight, so in the situation that you break the glass it's easier to replace it.

[glasgowjim]

Rubber along the roof ?

[WhiteWolf]

I will enquire more about the silicone.. I don't mind if it drys...

It's the rubber above the doors... I suppose it's where the roof and sides meet.. I've noticed a few bad patches behind it.. On inspection it looks like it needs to be glued down somehow..
Sorry for the bad description..

[Alan 480]

At some point this year she will be stripped and welded.. All rust shall be banished..


I will check the legality of reshelling the car as I believe it has to go through some official checks.. Depends which is cheaper which will probably be the welding.. Rather than full transplant...

To be continued....

mmmmm swapping shells is complete nightmare, legally you are up poo street, so if you decide to do this then you need to use the identity of the 'donor' shell and replace the engine running gear etc INTO the donor shell.

so if you have the V5 for BOTH cars just use the V5 for the car with the 'good shell'

or just keep VERY quiet,
you will get into a pickle as the chassis number is stamped into the shell and you will be done for 'ringing'

DVLA are doing a BIG clamp down, they have started on land-rovers and are working their way through various cars that have a chassis . . .. eg lotus, reliant etc (although you can buy a 'heritage' shell for an MG and keep the registration/V5 etc) I can't see why MG / MINI are 'different, maybe cos the shell is 'new' and has never had a previous life.

just a wee heads up

if it was me, I'd use the GOOD shell, put the best bits of two onto it, get it taxed etc and then if you REALLY want to keep the plate from the donor, do a number transfer (make sure that the MoT is still valid tho if you wan to do this)


PS not a legel expert, merely relating issues from other car info

[WhiteWolf]

Thanks Alan...
I've read a bit up on it and the only way you can reshell is if it's a new unregistered shell, like the heritage shell of MGs an Minis.. If it is reshelled like I want to do it has to be inspected then put on a Q plate..

I don't want to break the law.. I just thought if you had two cars of the same age it could be done.. A note put in the v5 maybe.. Obviously not though.
I have a friend who is good at welding so it shouldn't be a problem repairing the Turbo..

Another downside in putting the turbo into the Es is everything would be modified so would probably affect the insurance in a big way..

Thanks again...

To be continued...

[Alan 480]

Another downside in putting the turbo into the Es is everything would be modified so would probably affect the insurance in a big way..
.

I'd ask then about insurance then as a rust free shell is always better than a rusty shell that you are welding

Q plate is not that bad? are you allowed a 'personal plate' on Q reg?

'swapping' everything, I assume you mean the loom as well as engine etc?

Maybe the looms are the same? different sensors / ECU etc but all cars 'fitted for , but not with' as the MoD used to put it, in other words on poverty spec cars the wiring is in there for leccy windows, but the loom just has open plugs/sockets inside the A pillar