1991 480 ES "Williams" 2.0 16v conversion!

[Martin Mc]

Heyup Cranna (& all regular posters / participants in the forum)

I think there will be a strong case for a track day, once you and Justtank get your beasts finished and back on the road! I dare say it would be some competition between the two of you, with the rest of us 'gentle enthusiasts' pootling along in your wake

Are there any suitable places where we could all converge as a marque / club?

Just an idea!

Martin

[cranna21]

Hey Martin,

haha, Tom (Justtank) speak pretty on often on Facebook, as it stands his will have the higher numbers than mine pretty easily! but I guess there are a few other variables in there too.. Plus going with my engines record... it might blow up on me!

Bound to be somewhere that's organisable! the main issue being I'm up beside Aberdeen

Fraser

[Martin Mc]

Hey Martin,

haha, Tom (Justtank) speak pretty on often on Facebook, as it stands his will have the higher numbers than mine pretty easily! but I guess there are a few other variables in there too.. Plus going with my engines record... it might blow up on me!

Bound to be somewhere that's organisable! the main issue being I'm up beside Aberdeen

Fraser

Howdo Fraser!

This is how madness gets a hold of folks! First its a crazy idea, next people start talking about it, and before you know it, a plan has been hatched!

Let's see what other folks think - I know there is a healthy contingent in the North, and some of our Southern peeps have been known to venture up here. Just imagine, a load of wedgie miracles high-tailing it around a race circuit!!

Oh yes! Bring it on!

M

[jamescarruthers]

Good luck with it all Fraser! Following closely mate. 

[cranna21]

Another small victory last night!

Been planning to relocate the battery into the rear of the car, try to tidy up some of the bird's nest of OEM wiring + my additions with the Standalone ECU...

So far I've got it mostly mapped out and have a rough idea where everything is going just needed to figure out how and where I was mounting the battery!

So after work yesterday I whipped up a homebrew pressbrake that mounts in a vice with some offcuts of steel then finished it off at my unit (excuse the mess on the bench, its a communal bench and thus has communal mess.... ) a quick test with some plate amazed me that it actually works!



Next, I started fiddling about with some 3mm Ally that I had kicking about and came up with this little bracket, I'll finish it off with some matching dimple dies on the front and either spray it satin black once the corners are all trimmed and tidied OR I might trim it in some thin black carpet to match the black carpet I have fitted to the full rear and soon the front!



PS - No I didn't make the battery box... that was Ebays finest

[jifflemon]

I shall not post pictures of the bending machine I can play with; the important to remember when using it is to move your wallet far away, as it's magnets that clamp the material will render your banks cards useless....

Couple of Q's and thoughts:

What type of battery are you going for?
Could you use the jack recess or even spare wheel well for mounting? (or are you trying to avoid drilling holes?)

[cranna21]

I won't post our 150Te one at work either

A: Standard 093 Battery, I can perform CPR to the bracket and it moves nowhere so good enough for me!
B: Jack recess renders the boot relatively useless, did think on using spare wheel but as you say I don't want to drill holes and I'd rather still be able to carry the oversized bicycle wheel -just in case-

[Alan 480]

I won't post our 150Te one at work either

A: Standard 093 Battery, I can perform CPR to the bracket and it moves nowhere so good enough for me!
B: Jack recess renders the boot relatively useless, did think on using spare wheel but as you say I don't want to drill holes and I'd rather still be able to carry the oversized bicycle wheel -just in case-

aye but this will spoil the seating area (that you don't have)
if it was on the floor meant you'd have kept your 'flat loading bay' estate option ? ? ? ?

[cranna21]

I won't post our 150Te one at work either

A: Standard 093 Battery, I can perform CPR to the bracket and it moves nowhere so good enough for me!
B: Jack recess renders the boot relatively useless, did think on using spare wheel but as you say I don't want to drill holes and I'd rather still be able to carry the oversized bicycle wheel -just in case-

aye but this will spoil the seating area (that you don't have)
if it was on the floor meant you'd have kept your 'flat loading bay' estate option ? ? ? ?

Damn... how ever will I cope with marginally hampered rear seating!

I have a 940 for the second scenario!

[cranna21]

Pretty sure if this post should be titled "Bitter-sweet Nothings"...

Let's start with the good news, to lure the unsuspecting reader in

SO! My new pistons have arrived - complete with their rods, some nice shiny 83mm bore 11.2:1 Wossner pistons with PEC rods, ARP hardware etc! Have another box sitting with all King Racing bearings and other ARP hardware and so on so forth.



And that is the end of the good news!

So last night I went about removing the rear axle + suspension, mostly because I wanted to do some undersealing but also partially because my lovely powder-coated suspension components needed a good clean and I was feeling a bit anal So up in the air she went on my wee scissor lift:



Suspension components all removed (with the exception of the driver's side rear torque bar because the back bolt on the chassis leg has seized to the metal sleeve in the bush somehow, need to cut the head off the bolt and punch it through but I've run out of cutting disks, job for the weekend.

Started having a little poke around some bits that looked a little questionable and well, see below...




the main offenders amongst others hidden below the OEM sealer/years of paint and sealer. On top of this, on the passenger side, the Torque rod bracket connection onto the bottom of the chassis leg has burst its welds presumably due to a combination of age, fatigue, rust and stiffer suspension/bushes.

Plan of attack is to cut out the full offending 10" or so section of chassis leg including the bracket on both sides (as complete as possible but not holding my breath there) then from my spare shell cuts of the GT I broke and cut up recently I'll remove its amazingly like new rear section of chassis legs with brackets, have them blasted, make repairs as required + beef up some of the connections of the bracket onto the leg, paint/protect as required internally and externally and piece in the whole rear section on each side along with probably some strengthening additions.

I'll accept that it's unlikely I'll get them PAP on perfect, but it might be time to explode adjustable rear torque rods so that any error in my mounting can be negated and with the added benefit of correcting changes to the toe of the rear wheels that comes with lowering a 480.

Stay tuned for more episodes of misery hidden with a shroud of hysteria!

[justtank]

"Hello darkness my old friend"

[Alan 480]

bu**er

I'll make you an offer for the original rear torque arms later . .. . .

I assume you are getting the adjustable ones from usual supply?

if any consolation I have already made some 'new' rear mounts for the rear torque arms that bolt onto the existing chassis legs, remove thin parts, replace with 1/8th thick and large plates within.

but when I did extra digging the metal was more intact than i'd seen from initial inspection

[cranna21]

I might re-cycle this pair and make them adjustable, however, I do have at least one other pair of complete normal arms, unsure of the bush condition...

I think I'll try to keep it as original as I can in the sense that I have some good condition mount here anyway, I'll just beef them up for longevity and to cope with the added stress of stiffer suspension. On the whole the area is still quite strong, but I don't trust it...

[cranna21]

And THIS is why I love my 940

80% of the engine components loaded up ready for heading to an old-school lad locally on Friday for building up!

[cranna21]

Well, we have an engine! or at least 95% of one!

Just waiting on a few small parts and I can get the crank pulley on and all timed up, water pump etc etc etc! Spec of the engine is as below for those as nerdy as me

F7R A700 2.0l 16v Block and head - as per Renault Clio Williams
Block overbored slightly from 82.7mm (1998cc) to 83.00mm (2013cc)
Standard A700 crank with standard-sized bearings
King Racing big end and rod bearings
Genuine Renault OE thrust washers
ARP crank stud kit
Genuine new oil pump with uprated oil pressure spring
PEC H-beam steel rods
Wossner 11.2:1 Compression ratio forged pistons (factory 10.0:1)
ARP 2000 rod bolts
Head is a standard Williams 'small valve' head with light porting and polishing
CATCAMS 5502225 - duration 260/258 + 230/220, max lift 10.90/10.65 (a really mild cam, very very slight idle lope but minimal)
CATCAMS Vernier pulleys
OEM hydraulic lifters

before the rebuild when first installed the engine made 208bhp and 230nm at the crank, I'd need to hunt for the graph. At this time the engine was basically a standard bottom end fitted with the head as described, I'm not going to gain much peak power with the modifications done during this engine build but hopefully, it'll be nice and stout and take some abuse perhaps with a power increase across the board thanks to the increased compression ratio.

In the future, I'll do up my F7R A714 'Big valve' Megane head with more porting and polishing, larger cams and swap it on - but that's a job for the future.

See below pics!


(in a layby eating a bacon roll)

[justtank]

"Fraser Fraser he's our man!" - some cheerleader 2020

We need to get some adjustable rear torque arms made up, im sure people will want some with fresh bush's.

Lookin' fresh af man. Might have chance against mine now

[Alan 480]

serious looking bit of kit,

all you need is a starter motor ????

[cranna21]

serious looking bit of kit,

all you need is a starter motor ????

aye almost ready to remedy the original problem now

[jifflemon]

Make sure you have a gear reduction starter - They're the ones that are physically smaller. The gearing means they produce more torque than a regular starter, and the the fact that its a 9 volt motor, means it's even handier in a low voltage situation!

Geared:


Not geared:

[cranna21]

to this point, my things only ever had the chunky bois on it and consistently killed them due to direct heat transfer from contact with the block, had intended on going for one of the slimmer reduction ones in the hope it helps, failing that I'll move to a WOSP high output unit, but at £300, id rather not...