Volvo 480 Club Europe

I have managed to get ray-le-otter back on the road and through an MOT, she took a while to get there.

Is there anyone knowledgeable on the 400 turbos in/near lowestoft that would be willing to help me get it 100% healthy and right or suggest improvements here and there?

One issue I would like to sort out is the tachometer not working, despite a few bashes on the dash, earth's are all OK and added some extra for insurance

The info centre keeps freezing aswell, anything like that happen here before?

Is that the very rusty 440 with the knackered auto box? If so, well done that must have been a lot of work!

Why is it called that by the way?!

I think tachometer is fed from one of the plugs on the coil but the gauges can fail. Mine did and installing a replacement in the cluster sorted it all out.

Info centre failing sounds like some dry joints on the board(s) or at least a very good place to start.

Excellent news!!! If you’ve got an infocentre, then it sounds like a stand 400 series dash, with the same problems as a 480, all sorted with a soldering iron and patience!

jamescarruthers wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 19, 2022 11:02 pm

Is that the very rusty 440 with the knackered auto box? If so, well done that must have been a lot of work!

Why is it called that by the way?!

I think tachometer is fed from one of the plugs on the coil but the gauges can fail. Mine did and installing a replacement in the cluster sorted it all out.

Info centre failing sounds like some dry joints on the board(s) or at least a very good place to start.

Close, very rusty 460 turbo with a knackered auto box K872 LUF is the reggo, doingitsideways used to have it before me.

She's named Ray-le-otter because she broke down on one previous owner, and when he opened the bonnet the french engine stared back up at him and said "f**k you monsier" like the Viz character.

I have re-soldered the board and tried to repair the tracks a couple of times already, I might need to pull the board again now that I have done 900 miles in it

The tacho is fed off a plug on the coil you say? Any way I can find out for certain?

I have also ordered a new flywheel sensor for it as Haynes suggests that on the B18FT, but I find the diagrams a bit confusing, they dont follow a convention im used to, unless top is positive and bottom is negative on this style of diagram

I'm gonna have a bit of fun changing the starter coming up too, despite one being fitted 2 years before the car would even start its already failing 🤨

What are the symptoms of the starter? it may be a wiring problem rather than starter.

In terms of running, I'm going to assume you've covered the basics? (New fuel filter, plugs, leads, cap and rotor?)

jifflemon wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 21, 2022 9:32 am

What are the symptoms of the starter? it may be a wiring problem rather than starter.

In terms of running, I'm going to assume you've covered the basics? (New fuel filter, plugs, leads, cap and rotor?)

I haven't done fuel filter, due to how crusty the banjo clips are, I don't fancy that trouble just yet .

plugs, and leads are done, I cant get the cap off to do the rotor, head of the screw is rounded off

Starter clicks as though the bendix engages with the flywheel but dosent turn the motor over and then takes 3-6 turns of the key to finally engage.

I did have 60 ohms from the block to the negative post of the battery hence the extra earth lead, I am going to rewire the positive side at somepoint because of this issue. Its cheaper the buy lengths of jumper cables than it is to buy short reels of 0gauge battery cable

Anadinolin wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 22, 2022 8:33 pm

I haven't done fuel filter, due to how crusty the banjo clips are, I don't fancy that trouble just yet .

Understandable, but it's not going to get any better......

Anadinolin wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 22, 2022 8:33 pm

plugs, and leads are done, I cant get the cap off to do the rotor, head of the screw is rounded off

Again..... You'll need to attack it at some point. As long as you've a replacement cap (Lucas DDB248) and rotor arm (Lucas DRB243C), you could just smash the old cap off, which should give you mole grip access to the bolt. Obviously, have a replacement bolt too!

Anadinolin wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 22, 2022 8:33 pm

Starter clicks as though the bendix engages with the flywheel but dosent turn the motor over and then takes 3-6 turns of the key to finally engage.

I did have 60 ohms from the block to the negative post of the battery hence the extra earth lead, I am going to rewire the positive side at somepoint because of this issue. Its cheaper the buy lengths of jumper cables than it is to buy short reels of 0gauge battery cable

Now, what you could be getting, is a lack of voltage to the starter terminal - NOT the main battery terminal, but the "start" terminal. You can normally disconnect the trigger cable halfway; Do this and hit it with 12v. If it still fails to trigger the starter, then yes, it's very likely the starter.

Extra earths - Bonus points awarded. I like to go from the gearbox to anti-roll bar mount. I also add Alternator earth to engine block, as well as lifting eye to suspension top mount. You can rarely have too many earths!

I'll give it a go, she's out of action for the minute, the cooling fan decided to play silly buggers and died, so now is the time to start attacking the little pieces that cause issues