How to buy a 480
Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2021 10:14 am
Having seen, and got infuriated by, several for sale ads recently, I figured I'd share my thoughts around buying a 480. This is by no means a definitive guide, but its how I go about buying a car.
Step 1: Know thy subject. (buy in haste, repent at leisure)
We've all been there. You need a 480. Everyone else has one, they're super cool and you've a wedge of cash literally burning a hole in your pocket.
At this point, you really need to step away from the Ads, and start your studying. Know your car. Know where to look, what goes wrong, what it takes to fix etc. Knowledge here is going to save you LOTS in the long run.
Edie did a great video on youtube highlighting a lot of what to look for.
Everyone on this forum is probably MORE than happy to take a look at any potential cars and spot stuff to question.
Step 2: Budget. (it's never enough)
Have a realistic budget. Remember to factor in running costs. If you're handy with the spanners, a 480 is a fantastic car to own; I'll happily argue its the golden age of motoring, with enough electrics to keep you from missing your modern, whilst making servicing and maintenance a straightforward, no need for a bloody computer affair.
If you're NOT au fait with the spanners, then you're going to need to make sure that you've got a garage who doesn't shy away from old cars.
My general rule of thumb is that its going to cost you £500 a year to maintain a car. Some years you may not come close to it, others you'll bust through that with ease.
Know your budget not only for buying a car, but for its first year of running.
You've got to be realistic. If you're buying at the bottom end of the market, you're going to have to let a lot slide. The difference between a £200 car and a £2000 car should be very much noticeable.
Sadly, that doesn't mean some people aren't going to try and pass off that £200 car as a £2000 car one.
Step 3: Viewing the car (Sorting the wheat from the chaff)
No, not in the metal. We're a LONG way from that. This is the part where most of the cars can be dealt with.
Rule#1. Use your brain, not your heart.
Read the advert, look at the pictures. Then do it all again, this time with your brain.
Things that will instantly trigger me?
"No MOT but should easily pass one" - Really? Then why haven't you done that?
"Just needs an XYZ...." - Then put one on!
"MOT tester/Mechanic says it's the cleanest one he's seen" - Does the car come with signed statement from said person? Just how many 480's has this person seen? Are they going to personally warranty the car?
"full service history, but previous owner lost paperwork" - So that's NO service history
Rule#2. Always check the MOT history.
MOT's in uk went computerised back in 2006 ish, so at least 50% of the MOT's should be online.
Look for mileage discrepancies, signs of corrosion. I like to look at advisory notices, particularly ones that keep re-appearing.
Rule#3. Scrutinise the photos and don't be afraid to ask for more. Gone are the days when it was difficult to do photo's. Photo's are always going to show the best bits of the car. The seller wants to show the car in the best light. You need to get in the habit of looking BEYOND the photo.
Car stood on wet ground/local carwash? Photos all at different times of the Year?
Rule#4. Start the conversation. How long have they had the car? Why is it being sold? What your trying to understand is whether this is a genuine owner, or some Mike Brewer wannabe.
Step 4: View the car (yes, in the metal)
When viewing the car in person, nothing should be a surprise. You'll have hopefully be aware of any problem areas prior to purchase. Its now about assessing whether the problem(s) are bad enough to walk away from.
I personally like to see the V5. Not just to check the chassis number against the ones stamped on the car, but to see that the registered keeper is the address/person selling the car.
If possible, test drive the car - I actually prefer to let the seller drive, leaving me free to listen for knocks, rattles and weirdness rather than "where the hell am I driving".
You need the test drive to be long enough for the car to get warm, with a combination of low speed and high speed sections.
Rot is the single biggest killer of 480's, so check all the usual places. If you don't know what your looking for, take someone who does. If you do know what to look for, take a foam mat to kneel/lie on! A lucky fridge magnet could save you a lot of pain.
In terms of what to pay, my method is quite straightforward, almost equation like (because it's brain, not heart that's buying)
Assume a very good car is worth X. What is this car, going to take to get to X?
Take that list, break it down into short term, medium and long term.
Now be realistic. Pretty much every 480 out there is going to need paintwork in some form. A stone chip I'd not worry about. Rot I do.
Mechanical stuff? If its service items, you're going to end up replacing most within a year. However, if it needs new wishbones, droplinks and shocks all round, that's a different story.
Broken/Missing trim is always tricky to source, simply because "they all do that". Are the rear lights at a saveable or replaceable stage?
What I then do is deduct about 50% of the price of what the above is going to cost me from the asking price.
The single most important part is being prepared to walk away; Remember that budget? there's little point in buying the car if you can't afford to run it/maintain it.
Step 1: Know thy subject. (buy in haste, repent at leisure)
We've all been there. You need a 480. Everyone else has one, they're super cool and you've a wedge of cash literally burning a hole in your pocket.
At this point, you really need to step away from the Ads, and start your studying. Know your car. Know where to look, what goes wrong, what it takes to fix etc. Knowledge here is going to save you LOTS in the long run.
Edie did a great video on youtube highlighting a lot of what to look for.
Everyone on this forum is probably MORE than happy to take a look at any potential cars and spot stuff to question.
Step 2: Budget. (it's never enough)
Have a realistic budget. Remember to factor in running costs. If you're handy with the spanners, a 480 is a fantastic car to own; I'll happily argue its the golden age of motoring, with enough electrics to keep you from missing your modern, whilst making servicing and maintenance a straightforward, no need for a bloody computer affair.
If you're NOT au fait with the spanners, then you're going to need to make sure that you've got a garage who doesn't shy away from old cars.
My general rule of thumb is that its going to cost you £500 a year to maintain a car. Some years you may not come close to it, others you'll bust through that with ease.
Know your budget not only for buying a car, but for its first year of running.
You've got to be realistic. If you're buying at the bottom end of the market, you're going to have to let a lot slide. The difference between a £200 car and a £2000 car should be very much noticeable.
Sadly, that doesn't mean some people aren't going to try and pass off that £200 car as a £2000 car one.
Step 3: Viewing the car (Sorting the wheat from the chaff)
No, not in the metal. We're a LONG way from that. This is the part where most of the cars can be dealt with.
Rule#1. Use your brain, not your heart.
Read the advert, look at the pictures. Then do it all again, this time with your brain.
Things that will instantly trigger me?
"No MOT but should easily pass one" - Really? Then why haven't you done that?
"Just needs an XYZ...." - Then put one on!
"MOT tester/Mechanic says it's the cleanest one he's seen" - Does the car come with signed statement from said person? Just how many 480's has this person seen? Are they going to personally warranty the car?
"full service history, but previous owner lost paperwork" - So that's NO service history
Rule#2. Always check the MOT history.
MOT's in uk went computerised back in 2006 ish, so at least 50% of the MOT's should be online.
Look for mileage discrepancies, signs of corrosion. I like to look at advisory notices, particularly ones that keep re-appearing.
Rule#3. Scrutinise the photos and don't be afraid to ask for more. Gone are the days when it was difficult to do photo's. Photo's are always going to show the best bits of the car. The seller wants to show the car in the best light. You need to get in the habit of looking BEYOND the photo.
Car stood on wet ground/local carwash? Photos all at different times of the Year?
Rule#4. Start the conversation. How long have they had the car? Why is it being sold? What your trying to understand is whether this is a genuine owner, or some Mike Brewer wannabe.
Step 4: View the car (yes, in the metal)
When viewing the car in person, nothing should be a surprise. You'll have hopefully be aware of any problem areas prior to purchase. Its now about assessing whether the problem(s) are bad enough to walk away from.
I personally like to see the V5. Not just to check the chassis number against the ones stamped on the car, but to see that the registered keeper is the address/person selling the car.
If possible, test drive the car - I actually prefer to let the seller drive, leaving me free to listen for knocks, rattles and weirdness rather than "where the hell am I driving".
You need the test drive to be long enough for the car to get warm, with a combination of low speed and high speed sections.
Rot is the single biggest killer of 480's, so check all the usual places. If you don't know what your looking for, take someone who does. If you do know what to look for, take a foam mat to kneel/lie on! A lucky fridge magnet could save you a lot of pain.
In terms of what to pay, my method is quite straightforward, almost equation like (because it's brain, not heart that's buying)
Assume a very good car is worth X. What is this car, going to take to get to X?
Take that list, break it down into short term, medium and long term.
Now be realistic. Pretty much every 480 out there is going to need paintwork in some form. A stone chip I'd not worry about. Rot I do.
Mechanical stuff? If its service items, you're going to end up replacing most within a year. However, if it needs new wishbones, droplinks and shocks all round, that's a different story.
Broken/Missing trim is always tricky to source, simply because "they all do that". Are the rear lights at a saveable or replaceable stage?
What I then do is deduct about 50% of the price of what the above is going to cost me from the asking price.
The single most important part is being prepared to walk away; Remember that budget? there's little point in buying the car if you can't afford to run it/maintain it.