My Storage tips
Moderators: jifflemon, coyote1980, Rachel
My Storage tips
As we can't use our cars, I thought I'd share my tips for storing them. Not saying this is a definitive list, just my personal thoughts
1) Brim that fuel tank. The thinking here is that there's less air in the tank, which means less moisture about to form condensation and thus rust.
2) Inflate the tyres to around 40 psi. It'll help the tyres from forming flatspots, but also make it easier if you have to push it about.
3) Get a decent battery charger. I'm a fan of a ctek one, but you need something that does battery conditioning - that's the ability to chrage when needing to charge and switch off when not.
4) Make sure your coolant has got the correct level of anti-freeze and isn't leaking! Anti-freeze contains anti-corrosion properties, so it won't rust from within.
5) If possible, start the car weekly, drive it forwards and backwards, wiggle it around, change it from parking forwards to backwards. Let it get hot enough that the radiator fan kicks in. This just keeps things moving, from heater motors, electric windows and the like. MOTORS MUST MOVE!
6) Controversially, if you HAVE to store it outside, and don't have a carcoon, then DON'T use a cover. whilst they may keep the car dry, covers will flap about in the wind and rub on paintwork (no matter how much they tell you about fleecy linings and secure straps. Plus, they make it a pain in the bum to carry out point 5, which means you're less likely to do it.
7) If you have indoor storage, or a carcoon, just know that I hate you! However, still take heed of point 5! If you've just got a garage, consider a dehumidifier.
1) Brim that fuel tank. The thinking here is that there's less air in the tank, which means less moisture about to form condensation and thus rust.
2) Inflate the tyres to around 40 psi. It'll help the tyres from forming flatspots, but also make it easier if you have to push it about.
3) Get a decent battery charger. I'm a fan of a ctek one, but you need something that does battery conditioning - that's the ability to chrage when needing to charge and switch off when not.
4) Make sure your coolant has got the correct level of anti-freeze and isn't leaking! Anti-freeze contains anti-corrosion properties, so it won't rust from within.
5) If possible, start the car weekly, drive it forwards and backwards, wiggle it around, change it from parking forwards to backwards. Let it get hot enough that the radiator fan kicks in. This just keeps things moving, from heater motors, electric windows and the like. MOTORS MUST MOVE!
6) Controversially, if you HAVE to store it outside, and don't have a carcoon, then DON'T use a cover. whilst they may keep the car dry, covers will flap about in the wind and rub on paintwork (no matter how much they tell you about fleecy linings and secure straps. Plus, they make it a pain in the bum to carry out point 5, which means you're less likely to do it.
7) If you have indoor storage, or a carcoon, just know that I hate you! However, still take heed of point 5! If you've just got a garage, consider a dehumidifier.
Re: My Storage tips
for me i'd NOT do five,jifflemon wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 2:47 pmAs we can't use our cars, I thought I'd share my tips for storing them. Not saying this is a definitive list, just my personal thoughts
1) Brim that fuel tank. The thinking here is that there's less air in the tank, which means less moisture about to form condensation and thus rust.
2) Inflate the tyres to around 40 psi. It'll help the tyres from forming flatspots, but also make it easier if you have to push it about.
3) Get a decent battery charger. I'm a fan of a ctek one, but you need something that does battery conditioning - that's the ability to chrage when needing to charge and switch off when not.
4) Make sure your coolant has got the correct level of anti-freeze and isn't leaking! Anti-freeze contains anti-corrosion properties, so it won't rust from within.
5) If possible, start the car weekly, drive it forwards and backwards, wiggle it around, change it from parking forwards to backwards. Let it get hot enough that the radiator fan kicks in. This just keeps things moving, from heater motors, electric windows and the like. MOTORS MUST MOVE!
6) Controversially, if you HAVE to store it outside, and don't have a carcoon, then DON'T use a cover. whilst they may keep the car dry, covers will flap about in the wind and rub on paintwork (no matter how much they tell you about fleecy linings and secure straps. Plus, they make it a pain in the bum to carry out point 5, which means you're less likely to do it.
7) If you have indoor storage, or a carcoon, just know that I hate you! However, still take heed of point 5! If you've just got a garage, consider a dehumidifier.
I just roll it forward, stick it in fifth and push it backwards , repeat afew times to keep engine free, then repeat with the clutch depressed to make sure it doesn't stick to flywheel.
done this for at least the last ten years on SS1
fuel is an odd one, I often think beter to have an empty tank and fill it to the brim once back on the road as the old fuel losses it's 'sparkle'?
Alan
480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1
480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1
Re: My Storage tips
Just reminded me of another - Don't leave handbrake on!
With number 5, its personal preference. Like I said, I'm a big fan of trying to keep things moving (myself included! ). There's no right or wrong.
Its the same with the fuel - Yes, it loses its sparkle, but running it regularly means your using fuel and thus topping it up, adding back to the sparkle.
Empty tank may less of on issue with it parked indoor/carcooned, as you've more stable air temperatures.
With number 5, its personal preference. Like I said, I'm a big fan of trying to keep things moving (myself included! ). There's no right or wrong.
Its the same with the fuel - Yes, it loses its sparkle, but running it regularly means your using fuel and thus topping it up, adding back to the sparkle.
Empty tank may less of on issue with it parked indoor/carcooned, as you've more stable air temperatures.
- brinkie
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Re: My Storage tips
You forgot to mention 1a: Fill up with ethanol-free fuel, preferrably RON 98. Do NOT use E10, as the ethanol will trap water and after three months of storage, ethanol will be on the bottom of your tank, then a layer of water and finally the fuel.
I can skip 2, 3, 4, 5; the car is on its winter wheels which I got almost for free (sized for a 440/460 at 175/65-15 on not-so-nice looking Pollux rims) so a bit of flat spots won't bother me, the battery has been disconnected, tank filled up with Shell V-Power (RON 98 with 0% ethanol) and you're gonna hate me Jeff because the car is in a frost-free, well ventilated environment (a parking garage under a shopping centre), under a cover.
I never use the handbrake unless really necessary (parking on a hill, or the need of running idle without someone behind the wheel).
I can skip 2, 3, 4, 5; the car is on its winter wheels which I got almost for free (sized for a 440/460 at 175/65-15 on not-so-nice looking Pollux rims) so a bit of flat spots won't bother me, the battery has been disconnected, tank filled up with Shell V-Power (RON 98 with 0% ethanol) and you're gonna hate me Jeff because the car is in a frost-free, well ventilated environment (a parking garage under a shopping centre), under a cover.
I never use the handbrake unless really necessary (parking on a hill, or the need of running idle without someone behind the wheel).
Robert.
Present cars: 1994 Volvo 480 GT 2.0i, 1999 Volvo S70 2.5 Europa, 2010 Volvo V70 2.0F Momentum
Present cars: 1994 Volvo 480 GT 2.0i, 1999 Volvo S70 2.5 Europa, 2010 Volvo V70 2.0F Momentum
- Jay-Kay-Em
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Re: My Storage tips
All good stuff Jiff and I do most.. no handbrake, over inflate tyres etc.
Also a thumbs-up for a CTEK... they really are fit & forget.
The only thing i'd say is the weekly run-up-to-temp has pro's and con's. Totally agree about motors need using - pop up headlamps especially. But, in my experience, the rear silencer never gets up to temperature enough - even though the cooling fans cut in. So whilst its good for some things, you may find rear silencers rot out (from within) much quicker. They are a huge water trap for condensate. I know the Turbo rear silencer is NLA even as a pattern part. Only a good run gets a tailpipe hot enough - but it's on SORN so what do you do?
The same can be said for condensation on the camshaft cover (internally that is). The amount of times I have removed the oil filler cap and panicked thinking 'head-gasket'.... when in fact it has just been the winter exercise program.
If your bores are well honed and not polished, and you run a good quality engine oil, there shouldn't really be any problems of a lay-up. Its good to hear everyone opinion and no-one is wrong here.
I also pop a couple of moisture traps inside the interior - its amazing how much water they collect - available from Amazon (search ANSIO).
I was thinking about May 1st to de-SORN this year but at this rate... its not going to happen
Also a thumbs-up for a CTEK... they really are fit & forget.
The only thing i'd say is the weekly run-up-to-temp has pro's and con's. Totally agree about motors need using - pop up headlamps especially. But, in my experience, the rear silencer never gets up to temperature enough - even though the cooling fans cut in. So whilst its good for some things, you may find rear silencers rot out (from within) much quicker. They are a huge water trap for condensate. I know the Turbo rear silencer is NLA even as a pattern part. Only a good run gets a tailpipe hot enough - but it's on SORN so what do you do?
The same can be said for condensation on the camshaft cover (internally that is). The amount of times I have removed the oil filler cap and panicked thinking 'head-gasket'.... when in fact it has just been the winter exercise program.
If your bores are well honed and not polished, and you run a good quality engine oil, there shouldn't really be any problems of a lay-up. Its good to hear everyone opinion and no-one is wrong here.
I also pop a couple of moisture traps inside the interior - its amazing how much water they collect - available from Amazon (search ANSIO).
I was thinking about May 1st to de-SORN this year but at this rate... its not going to happen
Jay-Kay-Em
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Click here for My 480 Turbo Diary
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Click here for My 480 Turbo Diary
Click here for My Cars
Re: My Storage tips
two pointsJay-Kay-Em wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 9:51 pmAll good stuff Jiff and I do most.. no handbrake, over inflate tyres etc.
But, in my experience, the rear silencer never gets up to temperature enough - even though the cooling fans cut in. So whilst its good for some things, you may find rear silencers rot out (from within) much quicker. They are a huge water trap for condensate. I know the Turbo rear silencer is NLA even as a pattern part. Only a good run gets a tailpipe hot enough - but it's on SORN so what do you do?
fuel tank is plastic, so no worry about rusting?
for the rear silencer I drill an 1/8" hole at each end at bottom next to the rolled over seam to let it drain, if you check the MoT regs you are allowed drains although teh slight 'puff' might distress you, but you can drill holes and if bothers you, put in a self tapper?
Alan
480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1
480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1
Re: My Storage tips
I had my car under a cover for several years. I used a good cover with a cloth lining. I had worked out a folding scheme to have the cover moved and replaced in the easiest and quickest way. It was always windy where the car was parked, but when it would be heavy windy I used a strap all round the car to secure it extra. I never had any issues with the paint due to the cover. Important however is, to put the cover on a clean car only. And use a good quality cover.
after over 10 years parted with the 1995 Volvo 480 ES 2.0
- dragonflyjewels
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Re: My Storage tips
We have used good quality covers for about 5 years - the downside is the price, around £100 each, but they have a fabric lining and strong elastication under the bumpers. It gets pretty windy here, but we have yet to have a problem with them taking off or shifting.
They are micro-porous so after heavy rain there can be a bit of condensation on the rear hatch and front of the bonnet, so on a fine day I peel both ends back for a while to let it all dry out. Removal of a dry cover isn't a problem - after unhooking the ends we fold the sides up onto the roof and bonnet then roll from front to back so we know which way round it goes. No problems with the paint, but I'm careful not to get any bits of leaf or twig etc caught in the lining when I put it down. The other advantage is that they are UV resistant so the paint is less likely to fade.
The biggest probem is if we need the car when the cover is wet, so I wouldn't recommend using one for a daily driver.
They are micro-porous so after heavy rain there can be a bit of condensation on the rear hatch and front of the bonnet, so on a fine day I peel both ends back for a while to let it all dry out. Removal of a dry cover isn't a problem - after unhooking the ends we fold the sides up onto the roof and bonnet then roll from front to back so we know which way round it goes. No problems with the paint, but I'm careful not to get any bits of leaf or twig etc caught in the lining when I put it down. The other advantage is that they are UV resistant so the paint is less likely to fade.
The biggest probem is if we need the car when the cover is wet, so I wouldn't recommend using one for a daily driver.
Sylvia
Snazzy - 1993 Paris Blue ES red dipstick 2.0i bought 2001
Lethal Lily - 1991 White Turbo
Paris the Unicorn - 1991 Paris Edition
hubby has
Sven - 1994 Racing Green GT
Evil Eva - 1992 Paris Blue Turbo
no previous 480s - can't bear to sell any
Snazzy - 1993 Paris Blue ES red dipstick 2.0i bought 2001
Lethal Lily - 1991 White Turbo
Paris the Unicorn - 1991 Paris Edition
hubby has
Sven - 1994 Racing Green GT
Evil Eva - 1992 Paris Blue Turbo
no previous 480s - can't bear to sell any
Re: My Storage tips
My 480 stands for months at a time usually, so no different for it during these times, I just disconnect the battery, that is all. Never have any issues. Always runs and starts like it was run the day before
'95 Storm Grey 323 Manual Turbo, Richmod
----------------------------------------------------------
'95 Flame Red Celeb, Nos.191, 2 litre, LPG, used to be Adams ;) SOLD
'95 Vase Green Turbo~ Vanessa~ 'Serendipity' manual, Richmod. RIP
'90 Light Blue 480 Turbo auto....RIP
'68 VW Type 3 1.6 auto Lotus White,Swedish import. SOLD
Audi 80 coupe Gold...pimp my ride! RIP
'76 Bug, Ocean Blue, lowered, Empi wheels.RIP
'72 Bay window VW Camper 1600 twinport. Sold
----------------------------------------------------------
'95 Flame Red Celeb, Nos.191, 2 litre, LPG, used to be Adams ;) SOLD
'95 Vase Green Turbo~ Vanessa~ 'Serendipity' manual, Richmod. RIP
'90 Light Blue 480 Turbo auto....RIP
'68 VW Type 3 1.6 auto Lotus White,Swedish import. SOLD
Audi 80 coupe Gold...pimp my ride! RIP
'76 Bug, Ocean Blue, lowered, Empi wheels.RIP
'72 Bay window VW Camper 1600 twinport. Sold
Re: My Storage tips
Just to add it is in a cosy garage so that does help
'95 Storm Grey 323 Manual Turbo, Richmod
----------------------------------------------------------
'95 Flame Red Celeb, Nos.191, 2 litre, LPG, used to be Adams ;) SOLD
'95 Vase Green Turbo~ Vanessa~ 'Serendipity' manual, Richmod. RIP
'90 Light Blue 480 Turbo auto....RIP
'68 VW Type 3 1.6 auto Lotus White,Swedish import. SOLD
Audi 80 coupe Gold...pimp my ride! RIP
'76 Bug, Ocean Blue, lowered, Empi wheels.RIP
'72 Bay window VW Camper 1600 twinport. Sold
----------------------------------------------------------
'95 Flame Red Celeb, Nos.191, 2 litre, LPG, used to be Adams ;) SOLD
'95 Vase Green Turbo~ Vanessa~ 'Serendipity' manual, Richmod. RIP
'90 Light Blue 480 Turbo auto....RIP
'68 VW Type 3 1.6 auto Lotus White,Swedish import. SOLD
Audi 80 coupe Gold...pimp my ride! RIP
'76 Bug, Ocean Blue, lowered, Empi wheels.RIP
'72 Bay window VW Camper 1600 twinport. Sold