Volvo 480 Club Europe

I've never quite gotten over the loss of my flame red Celebration (269) that David took on a few years ago, but it was massively too rotten to save.

I may potentially be interested.
Could you PM me some details and a price you have in mind for me to try and convince Mrs Sideways with?

Cheers,
Steve

PM sent.

I hope you two can sort something out here...Colin, I can vouch for the fact that "chez doingitsideways" would be a safe and loving new home for Blinky, which if you're anything like most of us on here will be a major consideration if you are parting with her

David

For me the right owner makes a difference.

I sold a 2300 SD1 years ago on ebay, (there was a long story was a £100 sale or something ridiculous). I got a call from the club rep, the buyer had basically abandoned it in a street. The club guy picked it up and drove it back to his without problem. I went round and checked the mileage and it had done 25 miles. No explanation.


Today I had the 480 out, went to cut some of my LHD shell up. I need to get the good bits off and dispose of the rest then do a few repairs to the garage in lieu of storage fees.





I don't think a slimline 480 would look too bad

I'd definitely drive the slimline one.

Means the missus can't sit next to me moaning

re you keeping the section of rear arches?

Plan was to salvage the panels for future repair/restoration.

Will give whoever buys the car first refusal on the spares I have.

Got a bit of 480 work done today.

The drivers rear caliper had developed a leak through the adjuster. Rather than mess about I got a reconditioned unit. All bled and working again.

Refitted the fog lamps and had a look at the reverse lamps, my brother said they were not working. Now this is the interesting bit, the LEDs on my VEM had stopped working a few weeks back when I was testing my units. Well it turns out that the reverse lamp fuse also feeds the AC specifically the power supply to the button LEDs.

I had bought a throttle position sensor as even though it was running better when I added a drain hole the car was still a little lumpy. There wasn't much improvement to be honest so I whipped the plugs out to see condition they were in. Oddly 2 of them had really tight gaps and 2 were a fraction to wide. Cleaned and re-gapped to 0.8mm as per the Haynes and that seems to have done the trick. I have replaced the sparks within the last 3,000 miles and the gaps were fine.

Whilst I have it in the garage I am giving the drivers rear arch a skim of filler, I have been meaning to revisit it after the repair last year but had yet to even look at it.

Hopefully it will be looking smarter when I have finished, the storm grey paint I managed to get is a better match to the halfords one I got last year.

Got the car out to stretch its legs before the MOT this week.

Nice little 100+ mile drive in the middle of nowhere with a few coffee stops.

Made a nice ladies day, she had one when new til it fell apart, would love a new one but is forced to drive a little Merc she told me fond memories of comfy seats etc.

Very lucky to live close to Lochs and Glens, we always take new purchases on this rite of passage trip but somehow I think the 480 had missed out.

Cracking photos That would make a great rally location, from the looks of things. Just have to avoid all the motorhomers in convoy and parking up unexpectedly for a wee spot o wild camping (with all mod cons ye ken).

Serious about a Scottish meet-up though, if that could be organised for us northern folk..

M

I have done a few routes over the years, I worked a lot n Argyll so these views were a daily occurrence for me but still enjoy them. I once gave way to a convoy of 27 Dutch Morgans pass going to Lochgoilhead where we went today really was a sight and sound thundering through a glen.

Few years back I did a run with some car friends and their partners with a few nights out and it was great. There is a lot more campervans and tourists on the road today but summer is busy.

Dont share this with all your friends but it is a great road trip, mixture of B roads, scenery and avoids the bulk of tourists. With some really nice restaurants along the way. I vary it a bit but the Argyll area is good for a day trip.



I have been on most of the NC 500 but as nice as it is there is a lot of traffic, getting stuck behind German campers isnt fun. For those not familiar single track roads with passing places is to allow you to let cars pass whether they are approaching or following. If you let a car pass it takes a long time before another is up your tail so makes a pleasant drive. I pull over a lot, no point getting stressed.

Argyll and the lower highlands have some great roads and you can have a good time regardless of the weather.

Sylvia organised a good meet on the East coast, there are so many options and roads through hills, valleys, moors.

dreading this. currently in the fast fit getting tracking adjusted.

Have had good results in the past with them but not sure why three of them need to be thinking about the job and look over parts of the car that have nothing to do with the alignment. curiosity or confusion, might be finding a new place to do it as they didn't do a good job last year hence the return visit.

Will have a word with the manager, as they also only adjusted one side by the look of it.

Oh I'm sure they're going to come back with a list of stuff that needs replacing...

I once had a car MOT'd by kwik fit. I was a tester at the time, and never tested my own cars - always better for a second pair of eyes.

The failed it for "leaking shocks" but luckily, they had an offer on, which meant I'd get a 30% discount.

So I asked to see the "leaking shocks", knowing I'd only replaced them the previous year. Sure enough, bigs leaks down the side. Only problem was that it smelt remarkably like WD40....

Walked back into the reception, and asked the manager for a VT17. He looked utterly confused. I explained that a VT17 was an appeal form, and that I was more than happy to leave the vehicle at the station until it could be inspected by VOSA.

There followed a brief conversation with the tester, whereupon it was decided that the shocks were in fact, absolutely fine, and not even worthy of a mention on the advisory list...

I've argued for a LONG time, that the MOT test, like the TUV test in germany, should be separated from day to day garage work. Since the above incident, all my cars have been to testing stations that only do MOT's.

They didnt come back with a list but I did ask some questions when paying.

I think they must have thought it was a set up, All the brakes and suspension on the car are new or near as. The car was in this January and only done a few hundred miles since.

They had the foreman serving me, the guy who did the job and another guy nearby must have knew they were going to be asked. Couldn't get it spot on but it is better.

I asked what they set the alignment to. "parallel" clarified if they meant 0 degrees. As it is supposed to be 1-1.5 degree toe in. the one who did the work said my tyres were low, I did see him adding air after they had done the adjustment

Sure they would have got it if they had spent more time and adjusted both sides but with everything skills are dying out. I wont be going back which is a shame as they had done good work a over the last few years but the staff changes.

I have an MOT booked on Tuesday at my regular place and know the car it is in good shape. Would need be a brave or stupid garage to try and pull a fast one on me. I know all my cars inside out even though only an enthusiast have been maintaining and restoring cars for 20 years and my fleet stands at 8 just now. Have had maybe 4 fails all in which isn't bad and these were mostly the first test of cars that had been off the road for decades.

arthuy wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 25, 2020 11:29 am

I asked what they set the alignment to. "parallel" clarified if they meant 0 degrees. As it is supposed to be 1-1.5 degree toe in. the one who did the work said my tyres were low, I did see him adding air after they had done the adjustment

Have had maybe 4 fails all in which isn't bad and these were mostly the first test of cars that had been off the road for decades.

thanks for prompt, I need to check tracking on CDC, it was a thochty toe out, about 2-3mm on one side, assuming that I'd got the wheels straight with the steering wheel 'centralised', but it did seem to sit with the steering wheel thochty left on stright'level/no camber roads

HBOL says 1mm toe-in at rim, I'm assuming EACH side?
It use dto be rear wheel drive were toe-in, front wheel drive toe-OUT, ie the slack would result in 'parallel'

well done on only four fails in how many years!!!! i seem to forget daft things, or the ruddy handbrakes on the 480, discs, who needs them
although to be fair last time the car shot out of the rollers when handbrake was applied

Have you got your own gauges? I bought a trackrite with the laser. Have never used it but am going to dig it out.

Would like a set of Dunlop scopes but they are always very expensive.

Last fail was on 2017 which broke a long streak 10/11 years. Was cross as it was hub swivels with excess play on my defender. I was cross as I had a few days previously replaced a steering rod or something. I couldn't feel the play when driving and I didnt need to jack the wheels up to do the other job.

arthuy wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:07 pm

Have you got your own gauges?

nothing as fancy as that . . ..

I have two steel tubes, same length, some strong window cord, approx 2.5mm diameter,

one post at rear against tow bar, the posts have a marker for centre, so this is set 'near enough' to the cover on tow bar which has a dome-nut

repeat at the front, pull strings VERY tight . . ..

then measure hub cntre to string front and rear, repeat as requried to confrm 'central'

measure distance from wheel to string.

simples. .. . nothing to break/wear out etc

arthuy wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:07 pm

Last fail was on 2017 which broke a long streak 10/11 years. Was cross as it was hub swivels with excess play on my defender. I was cross as I had a few days previously replaced a steering rod or something. I couldn't feel the play when driving and I didnt need to jack the wheels up to do the other job.

I know the feeling, took front pads off to replace pads and check pistons were free and when put the pad back on just caught it on the edge of the carrier, so still braking fine without pulling to side (oddly) but massive difference on rollers and if i'd put it in without checks, straight pass

Well the 480 broke my streak but nothing major and a bit self inflicted.

Near side CV boot needs changed, probably nicked it with the strut when sorting out the suspension, funnily the fast fitters never mentioned it even though it i minor was obvious.

Rear brakes, handbrake just on the wrong side of OK so will sort that easy enough.

Otherwise ok and I did ask the tester to be tough as I will be selling it.

Gives me a bit of motivation to sort my Land Rover which I have taken the week off work to sort some major rust out, I will need to get it rolling to get the 480 on the lift.

Whilst I was dismantling bits I found part potentially common to the 480. Heater cable clip part number 13H7343L



https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/ ... series_111

I have a spare VEM so will see if it is a direct fit.

CV boot and brakes adjusted ready for the MOT retest.

Thinking back there was a bit of confusion about the weight of my car. It is lighter than expected

Is the unladen weight on the vin or is there a chart , I cant remember now.

Hand brake is pretty good but want to go armed with the correct information.

Got it, found in the handbook of all places.

B20 manual kerb weight is 1020kg , the max weight is 1440kg so think that confuses.

incase anyone is searching the Kerb weights are

b20f M 1020kg, A 1040kg, B18FP M 1012kg, A 1034KG, B18FT M 1048kg, A 1070kg