A happy new 480 owner with a lot of questions

[fruktstav]

Hello dear friendlies!

I just got my hands on a 1989 480 ES and it's a sight to see.. However there are some issues that need to be remedied asap, and I was thinking that maybe you guys can point me in the right direction. I will present my issues sorted by importance, starting the the most pressing issue:

1. The speedometer (rev counter, odometer and info center too btw)
Initially the rev counter was completely dead, but the speedo was working properly. After driving for a while the speedo died too, which lead me to try this solution: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=35684
I was hoping everything would just pop into working order after resoldering the dry joints (actually I resolder pretty much every connection on the whole pcb, being quite an experienced solderer I had a great time ). Unfortunately the info center was still completely dark without any life to it whatsoever (the turn knob had been disconnected before, so I reconnected that too without any success).. However, the speedometer and rev counter was actually working for a while! Then it started dying when using the gas and only briefly sprung to life when letting the gas pedal go completely, while the rev counter is stuck at maximum red line (yikes ). Could there be a bad connection further down the wiring loom or should I do another attempt at reflowing the solder on the connections? Any suggestions are welcomed! Also, any ideas on how to get the info center working? It is quite problematic to not know your fuel level! Someone wrote something about cleaning some connectors and perhaps changing the fuses or something..

2. The front windscreen wipers initially worked properly, but then the left one gave up and struggles to move over the screen, causing the other wiper to hit it and just generally not working so great. I read somewhere on the forum that degreasing the connector strip inside the motors could be a solution so I will try to open them up to clean there, unless somebody has a greater idea.

3. The back windscreen wiper is even more f-ed and does not move at all, the cause is quite obvious however: the wiring loom from the hatch glass has perished and exposed the wiring. The brake light works however, but when I tried to connect two of the remaining broken wires the wiper woke up, but unfortunately moved downwards beyond where it should go.. Perhaps soldering up that wire properly will do the trick tho, but any suggestions is once again welcomed!

4. The back windscreen sprayer isn't doing anything, when pushing the button on the far end of the stalk literally nothing happens. I presume this is because the other wire in the loom is also perished.

5. The fog lights aren't working. I have checked the switch and it works, the back window defroster works (or well, at least the light comes on ) and I have also tried to manually short the switches without any fog lights (or indeed dash lights even) to come on. I heard that the wiring for these might be to think to survive 35 years, but shouldn't the dash light come on at least? Perhaps the dash light is also broken

I think that is about it, even though it is a bit of a list I'm sure I can get it to work with some of your advice. My first plan of action is to resolder the dashboard (again) and hope that I was just being lazy. Last time I just reflowed the solder, so I'm thinking I'll remove the old solder with a solder vacuum and put on some new solder instead, hoping that will fix my intermittent speedo / rev counter issues.

Then I will resolder the wiring loom in the back glass and hope that will revive the windscreen + sprayer back there.

So yeah, that's about it! Thanks for any advice you are willing to give me, my dear 480 enthusiast friends!

[dragonflyjewels]

Hello and a warm welcome to the club ! You will get plenty of help here from people who know a lot more than me, but I might be able to help with two things.

The info centre has a back light - if the bulb is blown it becomes virtually invisible. Try looking at it in the dark. There is also a adjuster wheel on the steering column to dim the dashboard lights, maybe that's turned right down.

The rear washer jet won't be anything to do with the wiring to the hatch. The pump sits on the side of the washer bottle under the bonnet. Perhaps that has died. If it's a UK car, there are 3 pumps, tall one for the headlamp washers and two smaller ones for front and rear screens, so try swapping those over. Depending on where you are you may only have the two pumps as some countries didn't get headlamp washers.

Good luck with sorting it all out - have fun with the car once it's done.

[royhedger]

In relation to the windscreen wipers. There is a mechanical linkage between the 2 wipers so this problem is unlikely to be electrical.
My thought would be that the wiper has come loose on its spindle, or the splines on the spindle have worn down and are no longer gripping the wiper arm.

Rear wiper. Remove it from the spindle and then switch the wiper on an off again. The pit the wiper back on the spindle. Hopefully this will reset it's position on the spindle.

Rear fog lights, have you tried the fuse?

[WillC9303]

Welcome!

In regards to the broken rear window wash jet...

Nothing to do with the tailgate wiring loom, that doesn't control it. The issue will be one of 3 things:
1) Dead rear washer pump - found in the screen wash bottle in engine bay. There will be one for the front windows, one for tailgate and one for the headlamp washer jets (though headlamp washers were a very rare option on non-UK spec 480s, so you may only have 2 pumps not 3). Unfortunately I can't remember exactly which pump does which.
2) There is a plastic pass-through connector that sits above the headlining along near the b-pillar that can seize. I fixed mine by drilling a hole straight through the connector.
3) The rear washer nozzle could be blocked. Try pushing a pin through the nozzle hole.

[davekit]

This all sounds quite familiar!

1. Resoldering should sort the speedo, etc. However, after mine was done, I still had problems. It turned out that the multipin connectors behind the console were not pushed home fully. They are difficult to access and align, and to put enough force on them to connect properly, so try again! After I got mine back together properly, even the trip meter started working properly, and that is mechanical!

2. Only one motor on front wipers, which are connected by a system of rods. Quite easy to remove whole assembly if necessary. Either the one wiper is loose on the spindle or a connecting rod has come adrift.

3. Rear wiper is controlled throught the CEM - a box full of relays in the left footwell, not to be confused with the relay box under the bonnet. The CEM controls the intermittent wipe function. I had problems with my CEM and a seized switch and the motor itself. Any of these faults may have prompted a previous owner to simply disconnect the wires. Have a look at 'Recommissioning a 480' - in 9 parts! - to see if that helps.

4. If the rear washer motor is suspect, swap connections with the front one, they are identical. If the motor is ok and the jet is clear, then the tubing is blocked. This is a long run from front to back, via the cill. Disconnect from both ends and apply reverse pressure. It may clear using a squeezy plastic bottle full of water. I had to buy a bicycle pump and adaptors to clear mine, and when it did clear it shot water the length of the drive!

5. Rear fog will only work with headlights on (possibly side lights?). Front fogs and long range also require other lights on first, the latter needs main beam.

Hope that gets things moving.
Dave, 1987 480ES.

[jifflemon]

Dashboard:

Speedo: More likely to be the cog, or the connection from the speedo sensor (under the airbox in the engine bay)
The infocentre, should be illuminated by a 5w, B10d halogen bulb. Anything else is going be..... troublesome.

Just another thought - are the faces of dials flaking? Its a coming thing, and could be stopping the needles from moving.

[Jay-Kay-Em]

Note that the n/s rear fog might be a dummy. When new owners see both not working they assume a system fault, when it’s just the one and only o/s bulb blown.

The rear fog units are quite vulnerable to road grit and salt down there so make sure connectors are all good. Similarly earths within the boot (back panel) - an area often plagued with moisture.

[fruktstav]

Hello and a warm welcome to the club ! You will get plenty of help here from people who know a lot more than me, but I might be able to help with two things.

The info centre has a back light - if the bulb is blown it becomes virtually invisible. Try looking at it in the dark. There is also a adjuster wheel on the steering column to dim the dashboard lights, maybe that's turned right down.

The rear washer jet won't be anything to do with the wiring to the hatch. The pump sits on the side of the washer bottle under the bonnet. Perhaps that has died. If it's a UK car, there are 3 pumps, tall one for the headlamp washers and two smaller ones for front and rear screens, so try swapping those over. Depending on where you are you may only have the two pumps as some countries didn't get headlamp washers.

Good luck with sorting it all out - have fun with the car once it's done.

Thanks for your advice and warm welcome! But there is nothing to show on the info center, the dial is turned up and the backlight works for the other parts of the dash, but not the info center. I also tried shining a light into it, but to no avail - it show's nothing.

I guess I will have to test the washer pump!

In relation to the windscreen wipers. There is a mechanical linkage between the 2 wipers so this problem is unlikely to be electrical.
My thought would be that the wiper has come loose on its spindle, or the splines on the spindle have worn down and are no longer gripping the wiper arm.

Rear wiper. Remove it from the spindle and then switch the wiper on an off again. The pit the wiper back on the spindle. Hopefully this will reset it's position on the spindle.

Rear fog lights, have you tried the fuse?

You're right, the grip of the spindle has been worn down, but the spindle's themselves work perfectly fine! Any ideas on how to remedy this? Should I just get a new wiper arm or can I get by using some Loctite or something in there?

I will try your suggestion about the rear wiper. Cheers!

Welcome!

In regards to the broken rear window wash jet...

Nothing to do with the tailgate wiring loom, that doesn't control it. The issue will be one of 3 things:
1) Dead rear washer pump - found in the screen wash bottle in engine bay. There will be one for the front windows, one for tailgate and one for the headlamp washer jets (though headlamp washers were a very rare option on non-UK spec 480s, so you may only have 2 pumps not 3). Unfortunately I can't remember exactly which pump does which.
2) There is a plastic pass-through connector that sits above the headlining along near the b-pillar that can seize. I fixed mine by drilling a hole straight through the connector.
3) The rear washer nozzle could be blocked. Try pushing a pin through the nozzle hole.

Thank you. Seems like it's the motor that's the issue, or it's connections, since there is no reaction to pushing the button at all. I will try giving the pump 12v directly and see if it works.

This all sounds quite familiar!

1. Resoldering should sort the speedo, etc. However, after mine was done, I still had problems. It turned out that the multipin connectors behind the console were not pushed home fully. They are difficult to access and align, and to put enough force on them to connect properly, so try again! After I got mine back together properly, even the trip meter started working properly, and that is mechanical!

2. Only one motor on front wipers, which are connected by a system of rods. Quite easy to remove whole assembly if necessary. Either the one wiper is loose on the spindle or a connecting rod has come adrift.

3. Rear wiper is controlled throught the CEM - a box full of relays in the left footwell, not to be confused with the relay box under the bonnet. The CEM controls the intermittent wipe function. I had problems with my CEM and a seized switch and the motor itself. Any of these faults may have prompted a previous owner to simply disconnect the wires. Have a look at 'Recommissioning a 480' - in 9 parts! - to see if that helps.

4. If the rear washer motor is suspect, swap connections with the front one, they are identical. If the motor is ok and the jet is clear, then the tubing is blocked. This is a long run from front to back, via the cill. Disconnect from both ends and apply reverse pressure. It may clear using a squeezy plastic bottle full of water. I had to buy a bicycle pump and adaptors to clear mine, and when it did clear it shot water the length of the drive!

5. Rear fog will only work with headlights on (possibly side lights?). Front fogs and long range also require other lights on first, the latter needs main beam.

Hope that gets things moving.
Dave, 1987 480ES.

Thanks! One question regarding the fogs, which light setting do I have to choose to try it exactly! Sorry if I'm slow

Anyways, I got the dash by my side here and will soon attempt a second resolder

[royhedger]

There's a couple of cars being broken at the moment, I'm sure they'll have wiper arms and spindles. Alternatively you could try some loctite, or as a more robust fix and one you can remove if needed, you could drill and tap a hole in the wiper arm so you can insert a bolt or grub screw to grip the spindle. If you do this I'd file a flat on the spindle to accept the bolt.

[royhedger]

Headlights on to operate fog lights.

[fruktstav]

Ok guys!

Some news from the workshop:

I fixed the windscreen wipers with some loctite, seems to be working OK for now.

After the re-resolder the fog lights show up on the dash! Wohoo! As does the ABS-light for the first time ever hehe. Unfortunately the info center is completely dead still, and the rev counter still goes full redline.

I managed to get all the fog lights in worker order too, just need to change one of the back bulbs it seems.

So only thing left to do before the MOT is the rear wiper and it's rear washer nozzle. I have ordered one of those battery operated soldering irons off of Temu, and hopefully that will let me resolder the broken cables from the hatch window.

If I recall correctly, there are 3 cables there? Anyone knows what they all do?

I guess one is for the high brake light, one for the window wiper.. But what is the last one for?

Thanks for all your advice, guys! Happy weekend

[jifflemon]

Rear wiper and washer aren’t needed for MOT.
High level brake light is, and the ABS light will fail too.

[Alan 480]

Ok guys!

If I recall correctly, there are 3 cables there? Anyone knows what they all do?

I guess one is for the high brake light, one for the window wiper.. But what is the last one for?

Thanks for all your advice, guys! Happy weekend

you have three items on back window
1 rear wiper
2 heated screen
3 high level brake
AND
the rear wiper needs an EXTRA wire so that the motor can self park across the bottom of the screen , otherwise it would just stop when switched off at the supply.


I thought there were five black wires, very useful to number them but hey-ho, not that easy a task to isolate the damged cabling at the top of hatch

On mine the one return wire was goosed and only found out after I'd removed the wiper and 'assumed' that it had properly parked, but in reality it was stopped in the 'vertical' position so that when it did wipe it was moving from vertical down over the N/S lens and then hitting the bumper, nae impressed.


I used a diode from the brake light as the supply for the self parking, so the wiper stops anywhere until the brake is pressed when it correctly parks!!!

for an MoT i'm not 100% certain if it is one of those items that 'if fitted must work'?? others will confirm/deny

if push comes to shove just remove the whole assembly and put a grommet until you find time to fix it

[fruktstav]

Rear wiper and washer aren’t needed for MOT.
High level brake light is, and the ABS light will fail too.

Oh nice, I guess you're right! And the ABS goes out after starting the engine, so it's all good

Ok guys!

If I recall correctly, there are 3 cables there? Anyone knows what they all do?

I guess one is for the high brake light, one for the window wiper.. But what is the last one for?

Thanks for all your advice, guys! Happy weekend

you have three items on back window
1 rear wiper
2 heated screen
3 high level brake
AND
the rear wiper needs an EXTRA wire so that the motor can self park across the bottom of the screen , otherwise it would just stop when switched off at the supply.


I thought there were five black wires, very useful to number them but hey-ho, not that easy a task to isolate the damged cabling at the top of hatch

On mine the one return wire was goosed and only found out after I'd removed the wiper and 'assumed' that it had properly parked, but in reality it was stopped in the 'vertical' position so that when it did wipe it was moving from vertical down over the N/S lens and then hitting the bumper, nae impressed.


I used a diode from the brake light as the supply for the self parking, so the wiper stops anywhere until the brake is pressed when it correctly parks!!!

for an MoT i'm not 100% certain if it is one of those items that 'if fitted must work'?? others will confirm/deny

if push comes to shove just remove the whole assembly and put a grommet until you find time to fix it

Thanks for the info! I guess I'm just two new bulbs away from a MOT then (fingers crossed)

[fruktstav]

Oh, I just remembered. When I first got the car, I drove it home and parked at which point I locked the driver side (left) door with my key, and then went to the other side to check if that door was locked. It wasn’t and the alarm went off. It continued for a couple of excruciating and quite embarrassing minutes with me trying to lock/unlock doors with anything working. After a while the sound fizzled out and I was happy it turned quiet. But ever since the horn won’t go off (and the alarm won’t either). Never did try the horn before this incident so I am unsure if the horn button ever worked.

So what do you think? Did I fry the horn? How can I investigate this? Where is the horn located so I can try to connect it directly to 12v.

Any help as per usual is much appreciated

[Alan 480]

Oh, I just remembered. When I first got the car, I drove it home and parked at which point I locked the driver side (left) door with my key, and then went to the other side to check if that door was locked. It wasn’t and the alarm went off. It continued for a couple of excruciating and quite embarrassing minutes with me trying to lock/unlock doors with anything working. After a while the sound fizzled out and I was happy it turned quiet. But ever since the horn won’t go off (and the alarm won’t either). Never did try the horn before this incident so I am unsure if the horn button ever worked.

So what do you think? Did I fry the horn? How can I investigate this? Where is the horn located so I can try to connect it directly to 12v.

Any help as per usual is much appreciated

Volvo were 'cheap skates' and the 'central locking only works from the drivers door (RHS in UK), although I 'think' that the switch in the passenger door 'should' turn off the alarm and then you can unlock the drivers door by leaning across? (or unlock with the key from outside which will help)

I'd check but the better half is using the car today.

I do know that if the bonnet is open and you have locked car the alarm will sound when you do close the bonnet.

I had a similar issue when i'd been fixing the boot lock, must have had the wring in 'wrong place', but it sorted out after lock/unlock using th ekey in RHS door

the alarm horns are the same horns as the 'alert function' on the steering wheel, so you will need them connected for your MoT, they are situated down behnd the radiator.
easy access from under car with plastic tray removed.

try a gentle tap (or three) whilst you get a tame person to hold the button for you.....

should be a pair 'high' & 'low'

PS I assume you are NOT in UK as you said "the driver side (left) door "
you can update the location in your profile, if you want to..

[fruktstav]

Oh, I just remembered. When I first got the car, I drove it home and parked at which point I locked the driver side (left) door with my key, and then went to the other side to check if that door was locked. It wasn’t and the alarm went off. It continued for a couple of excruciating and quite embarrassing minutes with me trying to lock/unlock doors with anything working. After a while the sound fizzled out and I was happy it turned quiet. But ever since the horn won’t go off (and the alarm won’t either). Never did try the horn before this incident so I am unsure if the horn button ever worked.

So what do you think? Did I fry the horn? How can I investigate this? Where is the horn located so I can try to connect it directly to 12v.

Any help as per usual is much appreciated

Volvo were 'cheap skates' and the 'central locking only works from the drivers door (RHS in UK), although I 'think' that the switch in the passenger door 'should' turn off the alarm and then you can unlock the drivers door by leaning across? (or unlock with the key from outside which will help)

I'd check but the better half is using the car today.

I do know that if the bonnet is open and you have locked car the alarm will sound when you do close the bonnet.

I had a similar issue when i'd been fixing the boot lock, must have had the wring in 'wrong place', but it sorted out after lock/unlock using th ekey in RHS door

the alarm horns are the same horns as the 'alert function' on the steering wheel, so you will need them connected for your MoT, they are situated down behnd the radiator.
easy access from under car with plastic tray removed.

try a gentle tap (or three) whilst you get a tame person to hold the button for you.....

should be a pair 'high' & 'low'

PS I assume you are NOT in UK as you said "the driver side (left) door "
you can update the location in your profile, if you want to..

Thanks, but after diagnosing a parasitic current that empties my battery over night I found the fuse to be blown. Will replace that before continuing any additional trouble shooting.

Speaking of the parasitic draw, even with all the fuses disconnected the car draws 33mA. I can also hear what sounds like a relay clucking when I connect the battery. Any idea what this could be? The alternator maybe?

[Roselan1]

Hey there! Congrats on your 1989 480 ES—what a classic! It sounds like you’ve got a bit of a project ahead, but with some careful troubleshooting, I’m sure you can sort things out. For your dashboard issues, it's possible that the connections could be loose or there's corrosion in the wiring harness, so reflowing the solder sounds like a good approach. For your wiper problems, cleaning or replacing the motor and checking the connections should help. As for the fog lights, it could be a fuse or a bad relay. Double-check the wiring diagrams to make sure everything is connected properly. Best of luck, and enjoy your restoration journey!