Volvo 480 Club Europe

While driving my car this evening I turned the radio on as I often do and suddenly it lost signal, I looked out of the mirror and the aerial was gone!

I turned the knob however and it promptly reappeared and rose again, all fine.

Later on I went to turn the radio off, and the aerial did nothing. Turned it on again and the whirring noise occurred (though quieter than normal) and the aerial remained static. When I turned the radio off there was no motor noise, but every time I turned it on there was a noise.

I tried taking the radio out and playing with the connectors, but it was not playing ball. I deconstructed the rear trim, drew a blank and put it all together again.

Basically my car has backdated a few months to when they all had manual aerials, except I can physically push the aerial down either

Just when you thought it was safe to relax, the Wedge Factor strikes again


Any tips or advice? I assume people have had this happen before

Sounds like it needs a new mast

Fortunetly the mast is shared with the S40 - I've used this one

Thank you Jeff, is it too much to hope the process of fixing it is simple and easy, or do I need a degree in particle physics and quantum cable entanglement?

Quite straightforward. Depending on the urgency, I’ve another one to do, so could do a how to?

That would be most useful, the car needs a good going over as it has also thrown a clutch cable which it thrust on me after a long fast run to the south downs and back

Ah that’s annoying. Is it the cable itself that has snapped or the connector between the cable on the pedal? Early cars can have a plastic connector which is prone to failure. Replacing it with a later metal one fixes this nicely!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164576444835

jamescarruthers wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 18, 2021 8:23 am

Ah that’s annoying. Is it the cable itself that has snapped or the connector between the cable on the pedal? Early cars can have a plastic connector which is prone to failure. Replacing it with a later metal one fixes this nicely!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164576444835

Indeed, my Jaws poster would be more appropriate here.

We haven't actually checked yet, but it was a case of the clutch has felt a bit heavy for a while (assumed it was normal) and just as I pulled into my road I went to go for reverse, put the clutch in, and the release was pretty much gone, so it wasn't really engaging the gear, and when I tried to select a gear with the clutch engaged, and the gear just grinded as if there was no clutch.

Now if I turned the engine off, clutch in, select gear, and start the engine with the clutch in, that is ok, but when I release the clutch, then it works but is essentially undrivable

Oh dear. Another early car foible is that one of the routing brackets can tear out of its mount. It does seem odd that yours is still half connected— like it has gotten longer or pulled the bracket.

Keep up posted and good luck!

Well we have had a look and the classic 480 fault of the day is..........


The classic bulkhead split!

I have been talking to Jeff about it and while we are able to manufacture a repair bracket, it looks like we have to take the pedal box out of the car to actually sort it out, not helped by the fact the nut seems to be at the same time 3 different sizes that were all replaced in the 1780s

Not sure how to proceed...

I have changed the name of the thread now, but not sure if it needs a new section

If I recall correctly this was a known fault and VOLVO supplied a pressed steel section with a handy double sided sticky pad to cover the offending hole!!

other similar solutions are available, namely a section of 16SWG steel bolted / popped into place, which is what I did on my E reg one....
pedal box was 'unmoved', probably bolted 'high up' where I could get access ie next to wiper motor?

more "thinking outloud and from memory"....

I'd remove the pedal box assembly, as the throttle cable goes through close by on the early cars.
I'd even be tempted to remove the servo, as it'd give you (or your welder) more access to create a decent repair.

jifflemon wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 20, 2021 10:44 am

more "thinking outloud and from memory"....

I'd remove the pedal box assembly, as the throttle cable goes through close by on the early cars.
I'd even be tempted to remove the servo, as it'd give you (or your welder) more access to create a decent repair.

So is this a job that requires welding then?

MisterH wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 20, 2021 12:44 pm

jifflemon wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 20, 2021 10:44 am

more "thinking outloud and from memory"....

I'd remove the pedal box assembly, as the throttle cable goes through close by on the early cars.
I'd even be tempted to remove the servo, as it'd give you (or your welder) more access to create a decent repair.

So is this a job that requires welding then?

yes welding or the stick on patch , but maybe it was VW Golf that had the same/similar issue.

i DIDN'T weld mine, just made up a section to spread the load.

also consider the mods to have a longer release arm might be able to fit, or is it just the extension bolted to the gear box?

should probably be split into a new thread?

the extended arm is two things - a bolt on extension to the gearbox and a longer clutch fork, which means gearbox removal to fit.

jifflemon wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 21, 2021 11:34 am

the extended arm is two things - a bolt on extension to the gearbox and a longer clutch fork, which means gearbox removal to fit.

Aye just had alook when got home from office (one of few days when been IN the office)

also I see that there are two bolts that hold the wiper motor in place so one (or both) of those could be used to secure a re-inforcing plate saving welding?

Many thanks for all the help, we have now been able to successfully fix this problem, read all about it in my new Howto guide!