carputer project

richj · Post by **richj** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:22 pm

I have started my carputer quest

Got a 8" TM 868 touchscreen monitor.

After disassembling it, here is a pic of the space it will need to fit itno.

As you can see I have had to do away with a headunit, the boost/voltage/oil pressure gauges and the heater controls

I'm going to try and re-locate them

Initially I want digital radio and mp3's - then maybe the fancy stuff ;p

Got to make a good job of fitting this screen first

esta · Post by **esta** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:33 pm

could always try and incorporate some gauges that appear on the screen...?

And do like Cerby did with his radio so its all "attached" on the screen and you can change stations/track/volume on the screen!

Good luck!

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:09 pm

You might want to have a look here :

http://www.digital-car.co.uk/forum/show ... php?t=9446

I dont have a head unit at all Esty.. even the radio is handled
by the PC.

A 7 Inch screen fits better and allows you to keep your heater
controls. Good luck with an 8. Will be interesting to see what
you do to move the heater controls!

C

richj · Post by **richj** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:19 pm

Ultimately I want them controlled by motors, so I can have a sort of pc controlled climate control thing. In the mean time - its going to be a bit of a bodge

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:38 pm

Look into micro servo's as used in radio controlled models. But be aware
that the 'throw' of the heater control cables is quite large and will require
a large 'lever' to actuate them.

Also bear in mind that CAR PC's are never ever reliable. So you might
want to think about a 'backup' plan to manually adjust your heater
settings.

C

richj · Post by **richj** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:40 pm

Never fear, richard's here. I thought about a nut and bolt approach for the heater controls - spit a bolt and let the nut run down it. That's a long way off mind.

Wondering how you attached your screen. Did you screw it into the dash surround?

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:11 pm

Nope.. the dash surround is too thin to screw into without the
fastener showing through to the dash side. It's bonded in with
high strength epoxy.

Nut and bolt is an interesting idea. I would vote against it for 2 reasons.
1, you aren't going to have enough room behind the dash to hide the
required mechanics.
2, I very very much doubt you will generate the required torque to
properly move the control cables.

C

richj · Post by **richj** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:09 pm

This is how I think the screen will be going in, still in its case.

does it look about right??

The big plus of the screw mechanism, is the thread is a gear ratio. It will take a lot of turns to move a small knut along a 10cm bolt. Wont take much space either. Not sure it would work, but I can leave the heater on hot/windscreen for a couple of months

esta · Post by **esta** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:04 pm

Cerberus wrote: I dont have a head unit at all Esty.. even the radio is handled
by the PC.

C

Lol I know, I dont think I explained myself at all

When i said attached, I think i should have put "incorporated into" again!!

PS, you are both too clever!!

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:59 pm

I think you have to loose the case and fabricate it into the dash...
but then I prefer the 'oem look'...

I think you should remove the control rods... go straight to the other
end of them (the flaps) and install servo's...

You will need to remove the limit stops in the servo's and invest in
a board that interfaces the servo's to the PC. The nut on a threaded
bar plan just sounds like a world of hurt to me...

Sorry.. Just being honest...

C

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 10:00 pm

esta wrote: Lol I know, I dont think I explained myself at all When i said attached, I think i should have put "incorporated into" again!!

PS, you are both too clever!!

Ahh I see what u mean now....

xx
C

richj · Post by **richj** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:55 pm

now for my next problem, removing the plastic cage for the headunit and dials.

how does it come out??

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:43 pm

Easy answer - It doesn't.

Difficult answer - You have to remove the WHOLE dash to get to the
uppermost fixings. To get to the dash fixings you have to remove the
windscreen....

Easy solution... You take a dremmel to it and cut away the parts of the
'radio box' that foul your install.

Edited to add - Beware how much you remove as the box provides the
structural integrity of the dash. The more you remove the floppier your
dash will become

C

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:46 pm

By the way.... have you decided how you are going to replace
your 3 guages yet? (boost, volts and oil pressure)

C

richj · Post by **richj** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:55 pm

I don't have any idea about the turbo guage, but the other two should wire up with a usb interface board. I'm guessing there is some sort of 'pressure to output voltage' device that i can use with the turbo guage. I havn't decided/looked into it yet.

My main aim is getting the black cage out, so I can replace it with a custom one.

I might cut it out then, (cleanly), so that it can be put back with some epoxy when/if returning to standard. Thats a real shame :/

I don't want to damage it.

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:09 pm

Don't worry about a future return to standard. There's plenty of us that
break 480's. So you can always buy a replacement somewhere down the
line.

Will be interested in your boost guage solution. Have you not considered
solving it the same way I did?

If you do find a way to sense the vacuum electronically without spending
mega buck's I'd be very interested.

C

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:19 pm

Why do I always forget to type everything in one post? *whistles innocently*

for volts and oil pressure you have a few options.

Have a search for-
* Velleman K8055
* Fusion Brain
* Arduino

For a non PC integrated solution.. Check mu digital car thread for a
solution using :

Integrated would be very cool. I just couldn't bear the thought of not
having access to my volts, boost or oil pressure if the PC BSOD'd

(plus.. it;s very likely your LCD wont actually come on, on very cold
mornings

)
C

richj · Post by **richj** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:25 pm

I have got the dials out now, & I 'think' I have found the top most screw. Definitely no chance of getting a screw driving to it, but Im thinking a ratchet with a screw piece might get to it.

A custom turbo dial is always an option - I liked the way you moved yours :)

I really made an assumption that I would find something like this that would do the job. I don't have a clue about that exact item, but something along those lines?

richj · Post by **richj** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:32 pm

maybe this might be made of the right stuff.

Very interesting you mention the screen not coming on when cold. Mostly the reason I wanted to keep the back cover on was to keep water out (a silicon gell sachet. Not sure how to get round the cold problem though. Maybe some insulation?

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:43 pm

I'm liking your vacuum sensor idea. They look cheep enuf to get hold
of and try out! The issue will be the callibration of the sensor they may
not be rated ina suitable 'scale' to give the right result. Worth a try
tho I recon.

My screen has no rear case so I think I suffer from a spot of condensation
on the cold mornings. I'd definately reccomend casing the rear of your
screen (with appropriate cooling vents because heat kills them real fast)

A good wheeze for warming it up is to make a hole in the heating vent
pipe thats coming up to the vent to the left of your screen. Attach a
suitable bit of ducting to the hole to redirect some nice warm air
to the back of your screen. Might also help when the summer comes
to keep the LCD panel cool

Oh and wire in a hidden switch somewhere for the power to the screen.
If they do try to come on but fail they get stuck in a fail state and just
removing the signal and reapplying it (reboot the pc) wont bring it back
to life even if it has warmed up. Neither will the power switch on the sceen.

If that happens a reboot of the screen. (power off, power on) is the only
thing that will get it on again.

C