ICE install and lights...

[wreeve]

... guys, wired up my pioneer head unit and it works well...apart from I seem to have broken the little "light bulb" indicator on the dash board! It used to be lit green to, I presume, indicate that the running lights were on. Now it doesn't light up! The running lights work as before. It might have something to do with the "illumination" feed to the Pioneer which is meant to dim the display when the headlights are on...but the feed in the ISO plus is live all the time the ignition is on...I presume as the running lights are on!

Also, the switched ignition feed in the ISO plug isn't switched; it's live all the time. This would explain why the head unit doesn't switch on/off with the accessory position on the ignition. The original Philips didn't switch off either.

Is there an easy switch live I can use. I was thinking of using the "illumination" wire as this seems to behave how I want.

I’ve also got to feed the changer cable to the boot, how do I get the plastic strip by the doors off (it holds the carpet down) without breaking it?

Keep well all,

[Ed.]

In my 440, I spliced into the cabling for the heated seats as these only work from acc1 and higher. To remove the carpet trim in my car, just pull upwards. They are only held down by clips.

Not sure about your lights on tell tale. Have you checked the bulb in the dash?

HTH

Ed

[Agwa Moose]

Is there an easy switch live I can use. I was thinking of using the "illumination" wire as this seems to behave how I want.

That's the wire I used, works fine

The light on the dash, as Ed says, it's probably the bulb thats blown

And the plastic strip, just pull it, it should come off, if it seems to not want to then use a screwdriver to prise it up

J

[wreeve]

Thanks guys, the cable is nearly routed to the back. I followed the original gaffer taped loom under the carpet and it's all gone back fine. You can't see the installation. I've decided to velcro the changer onto the rear wheel arch as I don't want to screw into the body work.
I was going to pick up GND from the big metal work in the center of the car, is this structual, it seems attached to the car via huge "gold" bolts!

Keep well,

Will

[Ed.]

Ground for what? an amp? The best ground would actually be the battery negative but for most uses, grounding to the bodywork is fine. To get a better ground/contact, rub down the contact area using emery cloth until it is down to metal.

Ed

[kennymac]

A smear of copper grease on the earth wire to body connection should help keep the tin worm at bay as well (Infact if its got a thread, whatever it is slap on some Coppaslip or similar, you wont regret it!) .

K

[Rikaitch]

I have to admit I have a 12 volt feed direct from the battery to the boot, primarily for my amp and also a 240v 800w inverter. I used an old orange garden mains lead, and wound both cores inside together for extra current. That, and all the speaker cables etc I took along the top of the centre tunnel under the carpet because it's easy to remove the centre console and get to the hole in the carpet for the handbrake assembly. The cable then passes underneath the back seats into the boot easily.

I used the feed going to the fan speed control, because this is live only when the key is turned to position 1. it's right next to the stereo as well, so it's ideal for such an occasion.

[piper1st]

I was going to pick up GND from the big metal work in the center of the car, is this structual, it seems attached to the car via huge "gold" bolts!

I used the buckle of a rear seatbelt for my ground