Volvo 480 Club Europe

Anyone got any views on painting and rustproofing- I'm thinking about the rear arches especially!

What do you use to remove the rust and what do you use to prepare them for your top coat of paint? I go for jenonite & wire brush or file! zinc primer and then volvo paintshop white- but my rust seems to come back so any tips? Should I degrese or go for a more expensive paint like por-15 etc?

I too would like some top tips on this!

Hi ive been doing bodywork for 22 years and have found the best method is to cut away all the rust and replace but jenolite and a small shotblast gun is pretty good start and try and apply the primer in dry conditions ' primers are porous too so prime and paint without driving about in damp weather ' hope this helps a little

Nice one.

I presume with surface rust you just sand it back to bare metal and start from there?

Yes bare metal and jenolite too and etch primer ' the rear arches need to be sealed on the inside too with windscreen sealer and waxoyl the from the inside

POE wrote:Yes bare metal and jenolite too and etch primer ' the rear arches need to be sealed on the inside too with windscreen sealer and waxoyl the from the inside

Ah thank you. Good to know.

The rear arches on mine are pretty bad now. It looks to me like it would really need cutting out on both sides.

When you say on the inside, do you mean from inside the car (access from the boot I guess-not that I've noticed) or by getting round the back of the lip inside the wheel arch?

Yes from inside the car' check for any waxoyl appearing from the arch on the outside then if so that needs sealing

Poe can I ask you a bit more, If Im going to waxol the 'inside' of the wheel arch from the boot, do I need to take out the interior trim, is there an obvious place to get acess to the space. And when I find any waxol getting out then 'I need to seel'- that would be waxol making its way outisde (eg dribbling onto the tyre or thereabouts) through a rust hole or gap from the cavity?

Thanks a lot for your help here, I have often driven about once my primer is on- mine says to let it cure for 24 hours I think- before top coating so that might explain my poor results

Yes be best to remove interior trim but if you can get to borrow a decent waxoyl gun they have a long flexible pipe so should be fine ' if you dont kill all the rust it will breed ' ' i shot bladt my wings and used jenolite too and no rust has come back through and that was over 3 years ago and lives outside and yes its a hard job to stop the rust but can be done ' just a little time and patience' i used to scrape the rust out with a pin if i wasnt 100% positive id killed it

Thanks Poe, Ive seen some dinatrol aerosols come with a 60cm 360' hose tube thing- for an amateur like me would that do instead of a waxol gun - they need an air compressor don't they? Although I've seen some 'bike pump' type things sold with waxol too?

One more question- when your done with your jennonite & pin, and your back to bare metal, do you use anything to clean the metal of the jenonite and prepare it for the undercoat? I see the por-15 range of paints have some sort of cleaner for this stage, which apparanlty sees off the surface rust that can appear.

Grateful!

Tim

Yes tim that waxoyl gun sounds fine ' to prep before paint id use a scotch cloth and some degreasorand wipe with dry cloth immediately ' even after using jenolite i prefer to remove even the dead rust as a precaution ' you could use a heat on area to be primed too if air is damp

Thats so helpful Poe, do you have a favorate brand or kind of undercoat? Ive seen some debates on classic forums talking about whether brussing or spraying is the best way to apply.

Thanks again!

Most primers i use are dupont and not in aerosol form as much cheaper for as mix exact amount needed and costs me very little ' i have used upol aerosol etch primer to good effect and also roller primed but that is used for a high build for filler repairs and not very good to use with metallic finishes as sometimes can see lines from uneven application

Hi Poe, do you have any veiws on painting and rust profing the underside of the car? Waxol vs Dintrol underbody sealent seem the popular makes on most forums?

Shame you dont live a bit nearer blackpool or I would be your best customer, thanks again

The best for underneath is brushable seam sealer really ' waxoyl tends to stay sticky and you end up with everything on the road sticking to it and attracting moisture to live underneath permanently

Thanks so much Poe, I think I'm just about ready to shop for some paint very grateful for your help

No probs and hope all goes well

anyone interested in a couple of front wings arches for cutting out/repair. they are same shape and can be cut to make repair arches for the rear.

Are they the plastic liners Axel? Or the full metal wings?