Sealing the rear lights
Moderators: jifflemon, coyote1980, Rachel
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- Can tell where the 480 was built
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:08 pm
- Location: Knaresborough
Re: Sealing the rear lights
And NO it did not work!!
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2510
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Sealing the rear lights
Definitely still coming in through the lights? The other likely culprits are the rear side reflector seals, the roof hinges (to car and to glass) and the hatch wiring conduit.
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
-
- Can tell where the 480 was built
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:08 pm
- Location: Knaresborough
Re: Sealing the rear lights
Thanks James, no it's definitely the rear lenses. The two small pools are in line and directly underneath both lights. Have water tested rear hatch and that's fine though may replace seal to be certain. The side reflector rubbers are not perished at all so I think they are not the culprits. Looks like along with all the other wedges I've had I will have to live with small leaks.jamescarruthers wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 5:41 pmDefinitely still coming in through the lights? The other likely culprits are the rear side reflector seals, the roof hinges (to car and to glass) and the hatch wiring conduit.
Re: Sealing the rear lights
Until you’ve sat in boot with all the trim out whilst someone else is spraying the rear, you’ll not find it.
Mine leaked in a similar place but it was the rear “pocket” parts not draining. The water couldn’t drain fast enough, so ran along the seam, and escaping under the lights were there was gap in the seam.
Mine leaked in a similar place but it was the rear “pocket” parts not draining. The water couldn’t drain fast enough, so ran along the seam, and escaping under the lights were there was gap in the seam.
-
- Can tell where the 480 was built
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:08 pm
- Location: Knaresborough
Re: Sealing the rear lights
jifflemon wrote: ↑Sat Jun 29, 2019 1:18 pmUntil you’ve sat in boot with all the trim out whilst someone else is spraying the rear, you’ll not find it.
Mine leaked in a similar place but it was the rear “pocket” parts not draining. The water couldn’t drain fast enough, so ran along the seam, and escaping under the lights were there was gap in the seam.
]Thanks Jiff, how did you cure it?
Re: Sealing the rear lights
The cure to clear out the drain holes. The rear pockets drain into the rear of the rear wheel arch. Volvo in their infinite and unknown wisdom placed a sponge under the drain as part of the rear bumper assembly. Water will go through a sponge, dirt does not.
Cleaned out the hole, removed the sponges et voila!
Cleaned out the hole, removed the sponges et voila!
Re: Sealing the rear lights
Good day all,
I have had a bit of a leak problem in the back and thought I would buy Joep's rear light seals and see whether that would help. The seals seem perfect, I got off almost all of the old seals' glue and residue with a stovetop scraper and Goo Gone.
Now I have just mounted the first "renovated" light and... it seems (very) warped, there is a huge gap between the edge of the seal and the car itself. I had not noticed this before. The cluster is not under any kind of stress, but seems oddly curved... Has anyone had this problem? Not sure the seals will be very effective.
Here are some pictures of my problem:
https://ibb.co/M9XCdQh
https://ibb.co/VtLSMRf
Thanks...
I have had a bit of a leak problem in the back and thought I would buy Joep's rear light seals and see whether that would help. The seals seem perfect, I got off almost all of the old seals' glue and residue with a stovetop scraper and Goo Gone.
Now I have just mounted the first "renovated" light and... it seems (very) warped, there is a huge gap between the edge of the seal and the car itself. I had not noticed this before. The cluster is not under any kind of stress, but seems oddly curved... Has anyone had this problem? Not sure the seals will be very effective.
Here are some pictures of my problem:
https://ibb.co/M9XCdQh
https://ibb.co/VtLSMRf
Thanks...
Just got my first 480 (August 2020)!
1990 ES 1.7, Superwhite
I have ticked off around 45 items, cosmetic and mechanical
Remaining:
- Vibration at 1500 RPM (hard to locate)
- Rough idle (harder one)
- Touch-ups
- Change rims (Pollux to slightly fresher Atlas)
- install my “new” flawless door pocket
I also just bought a 2004 XC90.
1990 ES 1.7, Superwhite
I have ticked off around 45 items, cosmetic and mechanical
Remaining:
- Vibration at 1500 RPM (hard to locate)
- Rough idle (harder one)
- Touch-ups
- Change rims (Pollux to slightly fresher Atlas)
- install my “new” flawless door pocket
I also just bought a 2004 XC90.
- jamescarruthers
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 2510
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:19 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Sealing the rear lights
Originally these were in with butyl tape which doesn't set. You could install with this, nice and thick, and it would take up the shape of your warped light.
If you ordered the "seals" back in the day from Volvo you would receive a roll of this:
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/butyl-sea ... ip-7-metre
If you ordered the "seals" back in the day from Volvo you would receive a roll of this:
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/butyl-sea ... ip-7-metre
1987 Volvo 480 ES, 507274, 217 - Red (Ness)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
2006 Citroen C6 Exclusive 3.0 petrol/LPG
2008 Mini Cooper convertible (Mau)
Previous 480's:
J123 CFU -- ES
J449 MNL -- ES auto
D864 CPV -- ES
L691 JFC -- Turbo
F70 MNR -- ES
H858 FGV -- Turbo auto
E981 KHM -- ES (509849)
Re: Sealing the rear lights
so is that the ONLY seal, nothing vertically between the lenses?jamesy12345 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 09, 2015 10:49 pmJoep answered - he is still making the seals as below, also makes one for the part between the two rear clusters...
both photos are Joep's btw
mine have a large fresh air gap, mostly as I investigated the source of the leak with a watering can and I could get the penknife easily in the gap between the seal and body!!! BUT no sign of any real movement, even with all three nuts loose.....
pressed gently on the holders to see if any movement, a little, I suspect 'well held' at top edge of hockey stick, a little thin blade I reckon to wiggle around ??
tried even at the centre of the car (removed middle panel for better access) and pushed thin scraper into 'stop'
I've read al the hints!
Alan
480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1
480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1
Re: Sealing the rear lights
are you "unsealing" lights? there's nothing vertically between the cluster.
Central panel off first, then undo the three nuts, but don't remove them.
Cut out as much of the current sealing method as you can with a sharp knife - The problem here is that it depends what has been previously used.
Butyl responds well to a hair dryer, silicone sealant doesn't respond as well (but it's still worth warming them).
Central panel off first, then undo the three nuts, but don't remove them.
Cut out as much of the current sealing method as you can with a sharp knife - The problem here is that it depends what has been previously used.
Butyl responds well to a hair dryer, silicone sealant doesn't respond as well (but it's still worth warming them).
Re: Sealing the rear lights
Thanks, well 'removal' was the plan so I could re-seal them. Can I post sketches, assume I need to make it a jpg first?jifflemon wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 10:38 amare you "unsealing" lights? there's nothing vertically between the cluster.
Central panel off first, then undo the three nuts, but don't remove them.
Cut out as much of the current sealing method as you can with a sharp knife - The problem here is that it depends what has been previously used.
Butyl responds well to a hair dryer, silicone sealant doesn't respond as well (but it's still worth warming them).
picture paints thousand words.....
no way will the top edge of the light move even with ALL the foam lifted out, it wasn't really bonded, just some sticky stuff
well I think that the water is getting in where the arrow shows, maybe the 'bonding' has given up between the two halves of the light cluster?
I removed the foam seal (not glued in) and poured water into the void and NOTHING went into the car...
the lights seem 'well sealed' onto the steel work (black) with sealant (shown in green) not factory as seems like 'bathroom' and I have a receipt for 'repairs to rear light cluster'
so plan is to carefully apply some tape along the top edge and then any water that drips in will (hopefully) run along the new 'gutter' cos it did tonight
or try this link
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pXNkjiNkFzaLYKdk8
if image is not seen I'm sure Jeff will fix it....
Alan
480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1
480 ES 2litre 'Celebration' ? , C30 1.8ES, SS1