Hub nut coming loose?

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edmundpwb
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Hub nut coming loose?

Post by edmundpwb » Mon Jul 26, 2004 10:37 am

Hello can anyone give me any help. a couple of weeks ago i had wurring noise form my passenger side wheel and on inspection found lose hub nut and thought the bearing had gone. i changed the bearing and tightened all bolts. i since driven my 480 about 2000 miles and the noise came back. Again on inspection i found the hub nut to be lose. Does anyone know a cause why the hub nut would work its way loose? oh and one other thing mystery coolant lose, ive checked under the car and the exhaust is there a common place in which the 480's leak? ty

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martinholmesuk
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Post by martinholmesuk » Mon Jul 26, 2004 12:32 pm

Did your Torque the nut up?
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chris1roll
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Post by chris1roll » Mon Jul 26, 2004 5:51 pm

You are technically supposed to replace the hub nuts once you undo them, in practise, nowhere ever does, but you should use some threadlock on it, and remember to tighten it to the torque, which is tight, somewhere in the region of 230 ft/lbs, my torque wrench only does 150, so i do it up that tight and then some!

coolant leak, could be any one of the hose clamps, will often show up as a white crusty deposit, but also look at the lower rad hose, it sometimes rubs on the engine, making a hole in it.

as for the exhaust, the joint between the centre section and the back box is very prone to leaking, as they are on 440/460 too.

where abouts in somerset are you?
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Ben Harris
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Post by Ben Harris » Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:34 pm

I had a mysterious coolant leak which I spent ages trying to track down. In the end I constructed a homemade pressure tester out of an old coolant cap, the valve from an old bicycle inner tube, and a bicycle pump - Blue Peter style!

I basically removed the pressure relief system from the cap, sealed it up so no air could escape, and then made a small hole in the top which I put the bicycle valve through. I made sure that the whole thing would be air-tight, and then used the bicycle pump to pressurise the system.

It didn't take much to show that one of the hoses on the radiator that I'd just replaced a few weeks earlier (as I thought that's what was leaking) wasn't done up tight enough, and the hose coming off the thermostat housing was also leaking a bit (which must have been the original cause). Once I tightened them up, my mysterious coolant leak was cured!

Ben.
Last edited by Ben Harris on Mon Jul 26, 2004 11:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1998-2003 ... 1981 Austin Mini City
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pol
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Post by pol » Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:36 pm

Yes, I agree with chris. Threadlock and new nut to the specified torque (off the scale on smaller torque wrenches). There is also supposed to be a washer behind the nut but these dissapear somehow!

You made a what Ben?! I have always had dissapearing coolant and it's not going in the engin or inside the car.

pol

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Ben Harris
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Post by Ben Harris » Mon Jul 26, 2004 11:49 pm

I got the idea from here: Homemade Cooling System Pressure Tester

It worked very well, and successfully showed me where my coolant was escaping! :D

Ben.
1998-2003 ... 1981 Austin Mini City
2003-2005 ... 1989 Volvo 480 ES (B18E)
2004-2006 ... 1994 Volvo 480 ES (B20F)
2006-2008 ... 1995 Mitsuibshi FTO GPX
2008-2008 ... 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Auto (with RichMod)
2009-Onwards ... 1991 MK1 Eunos Roadster
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robkendall
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Post by robkendall » Tue Jul 27, 2004 8:33 am

i have the hub nut probelm ALL THE DAMN TIME!!!
every coupleof weeks i have to tighten it up.
ive used countless tubes of threadlock,had nylock nuts on it....even considered supergluing the thing on!
arent most 'normal' cars passenger side hubs nuts reversed threaded?
as the wheels move forward on the 480, its constantly undoing the nut....other cars ive had have left handed threadon that side im sure.
other alternative,which imconsidering is drilling the spindle and nut and putting a split pin through
rgrds
rob
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pol
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Post by pol » Tue Jul 27, 2004 9:12 am

Hmmm yeah, sure i've played with a few cars with reverse threaded hub nuts on 1 side?... There must be some reason why some peoples come undone and others like mine dont.... Actually better check mine!

pol

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dragon
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Post by dragon » Tue Jul 27, 2004 11:45 am

chris1roll wrote:You are technically supposed to replace the hub nuts once you undo them, in practise, nowhere ever does, but you should use some threadlock on it, and remember to tighten it to the torque, which is tight, somewhere in the region of 230 ft/lbs, my torque wrench only does 150, so i do it up that tight and then some!
Heh, when I did mine, my torque wrench CAN do the torque, but __I__ could not - I was starting to lift the car right off the axel stand and still couldn't get it done up __that__ tight... hohum :)
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gerrsvolvo
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re: loosening hub locknut

Post by gerrsvolvo » Mon Aug 09, 2004 12:22 pm

Be carefull.
The symptoms you descriobe are the same we had with one of our 480´s
Finnaly resulting in a broken fronthub. The therad had broeken away.
In order to get the nut fixed we had the locknut m,ounted by teh garage but probably with too much torque.

You should always fit a new locknut.
To know is that Volvo in teh early years had e ring under the locknut, but later redesigned the locknut and integrated the ring.

Check for the right torque to tighten the locknut.
Fot the manual gearbos it is 210 (i think to remember)
for the automatuic it is 230
So check it.
Gerrsvolvo

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