A Shocking Picture!

Frantic · Post by **Frantic** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 1:05 am

JohnTurbo wrote:...Kwik-fit guidlines state that a damper should be replaced every 100miles or 48hours, whichever comes sooner.

48hours I guess

I would be filthy rich by now if I was mr.Kwik-Fit

chris1roll · Post by **chris1roll** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 8:31 am

Looks like i'll be replacing mine soon then, I think they are supposed to be gas shocks..

Don't forget you've got to replace the battery each time you start your car.

volvofox · Post by **volvofox** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 8:49 am

Frantic wrote:
JohnTurbo wrote:...Kwik-fit guidlines state that a damper should be replaced every 100miles or 48hours, whichever comes sooner.
48hours I guess
I would be filthy rich by now if I was mr.Kwik-Fit

I once was there on my bicilcle, asking prices. One guy stated to me I needed new brake pads....He saw it on my nose

these alone are attitudes worth not going there no more !

johnd · Post by **johnd** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:06 pm

Hmmmm.....you'll find a lot of oil shocks are actually nitrogen charged to prevent foaming (oil sloshing about)....really depends on the make though, it's not cut and dried.

Volvo shocks, as standard, self-extend.

You can get oil and gas/oil shocks. Mini's used to just have urethane rubbers bungs as shocks/springs!!!

John

johnd · Post by **johnd** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:09 pm

......another reason for gas charging is take the pressure off the spring. If it was a pure oil damper the spring would have to pull the shock back again. This way the gas gives a little helping hand.

John

Ben Harris · Post by **Ben Harris** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 7:16 pm

Grrr - Front shock changing didn't go too well this evening. I only managed to get the nut from one bolt undone, with the help of lots of penetrating fluid, and a blow-lamp! Then, I manage to crack both my 19mm and 3/4" sockets trying to undo the second nut!

Assuming Volvo spares have some replacement nuts and bolts in stock tomorrow, it looks like I'm going to get to play with my new angle grinder at the weekend!

Ben.

martinholmesuk · Post by **martinholmesuk** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 7:21 pm

@ Ben,

Seems you have all the toys for the job. I think Mat & I had it easy when taking the nuts of the front shocks. Good luck mate.

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Fri Apr 16, 2004 2:21 pm

ah yes elastomeric dampers...

The old 'door wedge' lavaball mini suspension wasn't as bad as you'd think tho, elastomers damp through internal friction. Somebike suspension forks still use them.

- Still, think i'd rather have a gas strut!

johnd · Post by **johnd** » Fri Apr 16, 2004 4:14 pm

Aye John.....good 'ole Micro Cellular Urethane!!

U talking motorbikes or mountain bikes?

John

doug_480_turbo · Post by **doug_480_turbo** » Fri Apr 16, 2004 5:29 pm

when i replaced my rear ones on monday i undone the top bolt and the shock fell down!! when i took the shock out you could see it had been leaking. anyway replaced now. new front shocks next month and a set of lowering springs. My new shocks are 30% uprated. And i found out the local parts place does lowering springs for a round Â£30 + VAT

red480gt · Post by **red480gt** » Fri Apr 16, 2004 11:36 pm

How do i check mine, im sure the ride quality is getting worse or uk roads are (oh no a new argument started there!!)

ste

Ben Harris · Post by **Ben Harris** » Fri Apr 16, 2004 11:43 pm

The simple test is the "bounce test". You just press down on the suspension, and see how much it bounces before settling.

On my 480 with the lowering springs, and new shocks, if I press down on the front suspension, when I let go, it goes straight back to the "normal" position - no bounce at all!

On my other 480 (which I'm replacing the shocks on as we speak), if I press down on the front suspension, when I let go, it rises up, then drops down again, and then rises up to the point where it settles. This (to me) indicates that the shocks are worn out and need replacing.

However, the ride quality is very smooth in the one which I'm replacing the shocks on - it's just a bit "wallowy" around corners, and tends to sway a bit (which should be cured by replacing the shocks).

Ben.

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Sat Apr 17, 2004 12:15 am

mountain bikes...motor bikes i have no experience of. My father has a couple of patents on high density urethane moulding, so i'm a bit sad when it comes to plastics

I'm wondering about my shocks, it corners well but is wallowy. I am wondering if thats just compared to my 2 previous (lowered) cars.

MatBat · Post by **MatBat** » Sat Apr 17, 2004 9:19 am

I heard that the 'Bounce Test' is no longer the best way, as some cars can pass the bounce test (if they have very stiff springs) but still have shocks in need of replacing.