Why oh why is every bolt you ever need to shift rusted on?

Does your 480 have tracking-problems? Does your car pull to one side? Or is your steering wheel vibrating? Read the posts in this category to find out what's going on.

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glasgowjim
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Why oh why is every bolt you ever need to shift rusted on?

Post by glasgowjim » Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:47 pm

Have decided to take the lowered suspension from 92 turbo across to the 95 turbo so thought no problemo looked at Volviz's pics . So thought just loosen the 3 bottom bolts holding the damper and loosen the 2 top bolts and remove the the complete unit repeat and swop over .
No too easy every bloody bolt rusted to **** will have to grind the damn lot off .
is there no justice in the world!

Seriously I take it that is the way to swop them over lock stock and barrel.

But I assume that the rear springs will need a spring compressor to remove.

would anyone who has done this please confirm for me as I would rather learn the easy way than the hard way.

many thanks Jim. :wink:

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chris1roll
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Post by chris1roll » Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:02 pm

If the rear springs are lowered...I managed to force them in by hand without removing anything at the back. Before unlowering it for better handling...

Are you sure they are that badly rusted??? You are using good quality single hex sockets? The only things we've ever had any problems with is brake caliper retaining bolts, and even they don't resisit the britool set.
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guitarcarfanatic
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Post by guitarcarfanatic » Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:35 pm

I can vouch that good tools really make the difference! I upgraded my toolset to a nice Sykes Picavant set on the advice of Chris (well after watching him take rounded brake caliper bolts off in Approx 5 mins after I had spent all day will my Teng Bi-hex set and a blowtorch trying to shift them) and they really do make all the differnce. I haven't had a problem with any bolt since and I removed the engine in a 406, and dismantled all the front suspension on one and not a single problem. Didn't use a drop of WD40 either!!!

I actually relish getting to use my socket set nowadays!
1996 Saab 9000 CSE 2litre EcoTurbo

Previously...
Peugeot 406 executive TD - The devil!

1991 Red Turbo - Great condition and surprisingly un-rusty!

1989 Light Blue metallic Turbo - Sold!

1993 Steel grey S - Bought for parts

1990 Red ES - Now resting in car heaven!

1989 Black ES - Great runner

1989 Black ES - Spares Car. I murdered it!

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guitarcarfanatic
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Post by guitarcarfanatic » Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:38 pm

Oh and you can't really complain about getting to use the angle grinder! I love using power tools! If it was possible I would cut cheese with my mini grinder... :twisted:








I think I better go lie down in a dark room...
1996 Saab 9000 CSE 2litre EcoTurbo

Previously...
Peugeot 406 executive TD - The devil!

1991 Red Turbo - Great condition and surprisingly un-rusty!

1989 Light Blue metallic Turbo - Sold!

1993 Steel grey S - Bought for parts

1990 Red ES - Now resting in car heaven!

1989 Black ES - Great runner

1989 Black ES - Spares Car. I murdered it!

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glasgowjim
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Post by glasgowjim » Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:41 pm

used metric socket and the thing started to slip.

put on a/f socket was tighter but still slipped totally pissed off will have another go tomorrow as its -2 degrees outside and not much warmer in the garage. ;)

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SMOOTH 480
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Post by SMOOTH 480 » Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:17 pm

jim try a gator grip i had to get my gator grip out to get the front shocks off
but would defo need a spring compressor to get the springs off safely at the rear, as u wont be taking the springs off at the front its a good job as this took 3 attemps with gator grips and a selection of snap-on spanners and vices to hold it in place :rofl:
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Post by guitarcarfanatic » Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:07 pm

glasgowjim wrote: put on a/f socket was tighter but still slipped totally pissed off
Bastard Nuts! :kill:
glasgowjim wrote: will have another go tomorrow as its -2 degrees outside and not much warmer in the garage. ;)

BRRRR...C..C..COLD! I thought the unrelentless southern rain was bad enough! Hasn't dropped below 2C for a good week or so which is handy as I am almost out of de-icer!
1996 Saab 9000 CSE 2litre EcoTurbo

Previously...
Peugeot 406 executive TD - The devil!

1991 Red Turbo - Great condition and surprisingly un-rusty!

1989 Light Blue metallic Turbo - Sold!

1993 Steel grey S - Bought for parts

1990 Red ES - Now resting in car heaven!

1989 Black ES - Great runner

1989 Black ES - Spares Car. I murdered it!

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lee
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Post by lee » Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:39 am

good tools is all you need as chris has already said. I rarely have issues with bolt where i have run out of options and have no option but to cut it.

If its that badly rounded try grips and a good dose of plus gas. If you were down this way i would show you how easy life can be with the right tools for the job.

You don't have to spend a fortune neither to get quality tool. o a search on here as we have had a discussion on tools.
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

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martinholmesuk
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Post by martinholmesuk » Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:04 am

impact gun with air compressor! It's saved me so much effort on the spitfire and volvo over the last 8 months.
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glasgowjim
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Post by glasgowjim » Sat Jan 12, 2008 11:03 am

wow Martin I will only be doing this once so I cant justify the expense will try a superior socket and grips but if all fails I will cut them but I would rather avoid this if possible. The more I work on the 480 I keep on up grading and adding to my tools. Still when the new bolts go in I will make sure they are well protected by grease. Thanks guys. Have looked over the tools thread .

jim

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martinholmesuk
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Post by martinholmesuk » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:48 pm

If you was here you could borrow my compressor. Anyhow on Vader I used to cover exposed threads with bathroom silicon which I could always peel off if I had to remove the bolt. works super!
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Post by 480_rocket » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:56 pm

I was trying to undo the bolt that holds the rear shock, and I spent at least two hours trying it and it wouldn't budge; 12 point socket just kept slipping.

I bought a cheap 20 set of 6 point sockets, they were about £20 in total and it came undone straight away.

For me I can't afford the decent tools, as it would probably not be worth my while as I don't do a huge amount of work that involves removing large bolts, leave that to a garage usually.
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glasgowjim
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Post by glasgowjim » Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:23 pm

Well halfords dont sell gator sockets etc "sorry sale of them banned in the uk since all the neds/pikeys/chavs were using them to remove security nuts on wheels"

So today took the anlge grinder out and fed it a couple of bolts yeah the suspension unit is now out on both sides. :hopping:

finishing up for today in a happy frame of mind feel as if I have achieved something :D

thanks martin for the thought but if all else failed theres always the irn bru back up :kill:

happy happy joy joy

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JohnTurbo
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Post by JohnTurbo » Sun Jan 13, 2008 6:18 pm

I have some Westfalia left hand threaded teeth type sockets for rounded nuts. Bought those in the uk.
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Post by volviz » Tue Jan 15, 2008 11:19 am

lee wrote:good tools is all you need as chris has already said. I rarely have issues with bolt where i have run out of options and have no option but to cut it.

If its that badly rounded try grips and a good dose of plus gas. If you were down this way i would show you how easy life can be with the right tools for the job.

You don't have to spend a fortune neither to get quality tool. o a search on here as we have had a discussion on tools.
+1 and plenty of WD 40
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aibast
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Post by aibast » Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:12 pm

do you have a graphite based oil. If you had lived in the USSR you might get some. Works great on stuck bolts. Way better than WD40 or other stuff.
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martinholmesuk
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Post by martinholmesuk » Tue Jan 15, 2008 1:21 pm

I have a bolt stuck in the spitfire's rear VERTICAL LINK which does turn but can not be banged out.

Looks like I'm going to cut the fecker out. It's the 2nd bolt which I had big problems on so not bad.
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