Rear brake selfadjuster

stu chacks · Post by **stu chacks** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 12:48 pm

Can anyone confirm this (below pic-allen key inserted) is the 'Rearbrake selfadjuster' or at least the 'dustcover' for it? Trying to swap the discs and pads today and having a mare - can't get this allenbolt to budge to slacken off the piston for starters.

Then to make matters worse the grub screw holding the rear disc on has been completely mashed at some point and I think is crossthreaded as I can get it 1/2 way out with effort, but then it jams solid.

Anyone got a suggestion on A:getting the selfadjuster/dustcap undone to get the piston back and B: what to do with the disc grub screw plse?
Was hopeing to change the discs and pads today for it's MOT this pm. So much for a mornings work....

Cheers,
Stu.

catgroom · Post by **catgroom** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:29 pm

On the dustcover Stu I use mole grips when it seizes regularly!

I often have to use quite some force to shift the adjuster too,spray the old WD40 if you aint already.

With the disc retaining screw,Rich Mann showed me that by winding the screw back in (using grips again) you get it to loosen off easier,just kep winding it back in then out further each time.

Good Luck!

Groomus

stu chacks · Post by **stu chacks** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 4:24 pm

Cheers Groomiester,
Eventually got off the dustscrews with some brut force and WD40, replaced the pads, and now can't get the nearside handbrake to work, I've tightened the caliper adjusters to lock the discs then backed them off a bit, but looking at Haynes need to get under and release the adjuster right off with the handbrake on then tighten it again.

Cancelled the MOT til I get the handbrake working. Ordered 2 new grubscrews from Volvo for when I attempt the disc repaclement again this weekend.

Stu.

Ben Harris · Post by **Ben Harris** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:20 pm

Tip:

When you put the dust cover back on again, put some copper grease on the thread, and it'll be nice and easy to get it off again next time you need to adjust the handbrake, even if it's several years later (although it's likely to be much sooner than that, based on the two 480's I've owned!).

Ben.

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:13 pm

The "grubscrew" is in fact a worm, driving on a 'wheel' which adjusts the breaks. If the grubscrew is too chewed up, your wheel is much likely worse and you need to fully recon the bugger. I've done this on an mx5 (same system)....and its a pig!

Good luck.

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:15 pm

ahhh ignore that, different grubscrew!

stu chacks · Post by **stu chacks** » Fri Mar 24, 2006 3:40 pm

You wind up merchant JT! Had that sinking feeling reading that for a mo.

Anyway, Â£1 each for the non-hub disc grubscrews from Volvo, what a bargin... hmm. Let's see if I can get the old ones out without shearing the heads off, as I'll really be in trouble then. Strange for them only to start sticking when 1/2 way out me finks.....

Stu.

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Fri Mar 24, 2006 4:57 pm

stu chacks wrote:
You wind up merchant JT! Had that sinking feeling reading that for a mo.

Anyway, Â£1 each for the non-hub disc grubscrews from Volvo, what a bargin... hmm. Let's see if I can get the old ones out without shearing the heads off, as I'll really be in trouble then. Strange for them only to start sticking when 1/2 way out me finks.....

Stu.

i found this, and molegripped the bastards. sorry about the FU

stu chacks · Post by **stu chacks** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 5:47 pm

Excellent tip JT. Stilsons worked a treat.

Found out why it was jamming 1/2 way out too - the (threaded) end of the grubscrew actually protrudes out the back of the hub and of course gets rusty as hell. Then when you try to unscrew it, the rusty end grinds to a halt when it gets into the thread.

You can't get to the back of it to wirebrush it without starting a full stripdown, so WD40 and grips (once part of the screw head is far enough out to grip) seem the only answer.

All sorted now exept the nearside handbrake still. Tried adjusting from underneath, but with the exhaust right in the way, I'm gonna leave it to a garage who can get it up on ramps.

It's made a big noticeable difference to braking and will use less pads now the discs aren't shredding through them all the time.

I've done a full step-by-step photo guide for swapping the pads and discs, will post it when I get photobucket going if anyone is interested.

Stu.

martinholmesuk · Post by **martinholmesuk** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 9:59 pm

Now you should think about stopping the rust like I have.

Did you have any problems removing the caliper bolts?

Ben Harris · Post by **Ben Harris** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:25 pm

I replaced my rear discs and pads this weekend too, and after spending bloody ages trying to remove the rusted solid caliper bolts, as instructed by VADIS, discovered that you don't need to - all you need to do it to undo the two allen key bolts (covered by protective caps), loosen off the handbrake adjuster, and remove the screw holding the disc on (which Stu was having problems with). It's then possible to remove and replace the disc without having to actually remove the caliper completely (as VADIS said to do).

Ben.

martinholmesuk · Post by **martinholmesuk** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:53 pm

Thanks Ben! My rear bolts refused to come out so I gave up installing rear brembos!

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:21 am

I did a full rustproof too Martin, or rather my dad did....any time he sees me working on the car he hides in the shades with a jamjar full of waxoyl.

Just irritating when he fills the rear side flasher with the stuff :S

I remember now about the rust on the back of the countersunk screws.

I didn't remove the caliper either, like ben. Done a lot of brakes in the past...i do all my friends....it keeps me in beer.

stu chacks · Post by **stu chacks** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 12:51 pm

Your dead right guys, no need to remove the 'outer caliper' to swap the discs, only the 2 allen screws and the pad caliper itself, then you can just about squeeze the discs out and in. I've got the photo's on bucket now, will post new thread.

Good tip Mart, I cleaned the inner arches (the amount of crap that collects on that lip is unreal - why didn't they put plastic guards on them like the front arches?) and treated them aswell then WD40'd everything mechanical in there that wasn't a braking surface also.

Even had time to respray the alloys the weather was so nice

Stu.

Cooper · Post by **Cooper** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 1:27 pm

Stu - Volvo supply replacement caliper auto-adjuster dust covers (ref. your original post)- they are quite cheap and you don't need to buy new calipers at the same time. I had the same problem when I recently changed my rear disks and didn't want to have the same problem in five years time!

Cooper

stu chacks · Post by **stu chacks** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:21 pm

Cheers Coop, as thread, I eventually got the dustcover (some dustcover huh?) off when I got a bit braver with the hammer! As it wasn't actually mashed (unlike the disc retaining screw) I just greased it and replaced it.
Did replace the 2 d.retaining screws though, they were 10*worse to try and get off, and never made it back on either.

Stu.

martinholmesuk · Post by **martinholmesuk** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:56 pm

Just got myself a new front wheel bearing for 8 pounds inc p&p.

Is that a good price?

VanDerGraaf · Post by **VanDerGraaf** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:41 am

I need to change the setting of one of my rear caliper selfadjusters, as there's only about half the pressure going to that one from both foot and handbrake (so it's not the handbrake cable).

stu chacks wrote:
I've tightened the caliper adjusters to lock the discs then backed them off a bit, but looking at Haynes need to get under and release the adjuster right off with the handbrake on then tighten it again.

Stu.

Is it only the middle bolt of the three on the rear caliper (as in Stu's pic in the first post) that needs adjusted to get more force, in the manner described above?
Have already soaked up all the stuck dustcover horror stories so really looking forward to this one!

Rohan

guitarcarfanatic · Post by **guitarcarfanatic** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 11:02 am

Just the middle one. The two with caps hold the caliper together!

Just get a proper alan key(5mm) on it rather than a a socket bit and it will come off hopefully. Then adjust with a 4mm alan key in the hole.

If you do experience problems just get a T40 torx bit (the type that will go in a socket set ratchet) push it into the hole for teh alan key and give it a couple of good whacks with a hammer/lump hammer and teh nget a ratchet on the end of the bit. Then it will turn away magically. I think the trauma from the hammer helps to loosen them. Order new parts at 90p each and put plenty of copper grease on the threads and undo, redo a few times to make sure the copper graese is workewd into the thread

guitarcarfanatic · Post by **guitarcarfanatic** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 11:10 am

Oh and the T40 bit will be lodged in firmly and WILL NOT come out from the dust cover from pulling (2 guys on either end, both with mole grips pulling couldnt get the bit out). Just give the bit/dust cover a bloody good whack with the hammer a few times and it ping out. I used a lump hammer and decimated a curb through so be careful where you do this/strategically do this near any nasty neighbours!