Page 1 of 1
self adjuster on back brakes
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 7:40 pm
by Murf
hi all, been doing the rear discs/pads on my S today in readyness for its MOT.
is the self adjuster that is mentioned in haynes as needing to be wound back the crappy little Allen bolt on the back of the caliper? if so mine have rounded off without winding anything back!
was going to try to loosen the bleed nipple and push the piston back in but it seems to be stuck pretty fast and i dont want to snap it off.
my mate who is a mechanic said he doubted if it had a self adjuster cos the allen bolt looked unrelated. he told me to gently G-Clamp it back into place but i thought i would ask on here for advice first cos this sounds like a pile of pish to me!!!
thanks in advance!
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 7:53 pm
by chris1roll
there is a little allen bolt that is a cover over a even littler allen bolt that does teh adjusting.
the cover ones always seize in. try hammering a torx bit into it and get it out like that. replace with new ones, and copper slip it!
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 8:15 pm
by Murf
cheers chris, i wish HBOL had mentioned that!!!
could i drill it out if the worst came to the worst? is the tiny bolt far behind the cover??
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 8:19 pm
by chris1roll
ummmm well i suppose your stuffed if you cant do it anyway, try drilling a hole in the centre and reverse tapping it
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:10 pm
by bbf
you can also screw the piston in - the same as turning the allen screw. yes, the outer one is a bitch - hamer gives him a teach!
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:39 pm
by pol
It's a really crappy mechanism / design if u ask me. You could drill the cap / dust cover and the screw underneath isn't far away. Just mind you dont wreck the adjusted behind the cap when the drill bit breaks through! Can you not get some good mole grips around the cap?
pol
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:43 pm
by MatBat
New ones are only 50p ish when you get old ones out.
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:40 am
by gerrsvolvo
Hi guys
I do not really think it ios a crap design.
But mainly crap servicing that caus so many problems and olso these.
It seems taht many garages are not aaware of the existeance of coppergrease.
A little bit of coppergrease on the trhead and there should not be any problems in the futre on the point of undoing bolts and nuts.
One examle we had to remove the wheels of a 480 that has been standing in a scarpyard for over many years.
We had no problems of undoing the wheelbolts. What was the case?
All bolts where done with coppergerase last time the wheels where fitted.
So buy a bit of coppergrease and apply it on the thread before you fasten any bolts or nuts.
If you try you can fiddle a molegrip on the head of the covering allenscrewed covering "bolt". I succeeded in doing so.
Good luck
Gerrsvolvo
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 7:55 am
by Murf
ok, i'll try the mole grip approach first!!
i was pleasantly surprised how easily (relative) the parallel ARB drop links came off after 11 years driving about in scottish rain and salt, i had my torch and grinder on standby but didnt even need them!!!!
today is wishbone day as my new discs aint here yet, cross your fingers!!
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 11:47 am
by Murf
got it, cheers guys!
now, anyone want two torx T40 bits with dustcaps jammed on them??
