Volvo 480 Club Europe

Hello all.

I'm in that unenviable position of attempting to change the front discs and pads on my 91 Turbo auto. It has vented discs & ABS.

I've cracked the two big bolts using a breaker bar & 'extension pole' & lots of penetrating oil.

Now, the screw that holds the disc is pretty 'mashed up' presumably done on the last change & then re-used. I can get a screwdriver to 'bite' still but cannot get it to shift & am concerned that I'll knacker it completely if I keep ongoing at it. I have used the penetrating oil there too.

So, question is how to get it out? Would one of those impact drivers that you whack do it?

if you have one use a impact driver as this rarely fails. If not use a hammer and small chisel/screwdrivers to knock it round. If still no joy afraid its time to drill it out.

I've never changed discs on the Volvo without having to drill it out, easy to do. If you need another one Volvo 25pence, or like me just don't bother replacing them, as the wheels hold them on anyway.

Thanks for both replies. I was considering buying an impact jobby.

Never drilled out a screw before, not sure if I'd cock it up somehow

You say it's easy, what diameter do I go for so as not to knacker the 'hole'

Yep, major novice me

Cheers

I can't remember what size I used, possibly 8ish. When I drilled, it was just a bit smaller than the width of the head, so it came off as a disc, with the shaft still in the hub. I then removed the disc, and used some mole grips from behind to get the shaft out.

I'm an extreme novice to, but it really wasn't to hard! Just go slowly with the drill so it doesnt heat the bit up to much!

Ta for that, I'll let you know how I get on.

you are best off with the impact driver to start with. Even if this doesn't do the job its a good tool to have in your box.

As for drilling start small and slow don't use hammer setting on your drill. Then once the head is off you can use grips to get the main shaft on the screw out.

lee wrote:you are best off with the impact driver to start with. Even if this doesn't do the job its a good tool to have in your box.

O yes! I have resorted to the impact driver many times on the 480!

It depends on how mashed the retaining screw is to start with really, you still need some bite for it to work. An impact driver has always mashed the screw up more when I've used one, in fact, I usually resort to mole grips to finish off getting them out.

I hate those retaining screws. Why do they make them out of such crumby metal anyway?

Well I got me an impact driver this morn'. Bought a couple of decent drill bits as well, just in case

SWMBO has gone off in the 480 today, so maybe I'll give it a go later or tomo'

Well, I've finally got around to starting this job again. And, yet again I'm stuck

Impact driver worked a treat on the mashed screw. Bolts out & calliper out of the way.

Will the disc come off? Will it . as like!!!

Paynes says 'a light tap with a plastic or hide mallet

I've resorted to a bit of wood and a lump hammer. A few short whacks & it's still there as tight as you like. Not even showing signs of moving.

Also found that the lower pin on the calliper, to remove the pads is an 'oddball' size. I've got a set of Allen Keys, but this bolt seems to be an 'in-between' size

Woohoo! A quick rant on here with a cuppa. Went back out and another two whacks sent the disc flyin' off!

Calliper pins are normally 7mm, glad you've got some progress though. Remember to copper grease back of new pads going in, and take it easy when you first use those new brakes, they'll feel horrible...

Thanks, yeh the calliper pin is 7mm. Just checked my set again & it has a 6mm then 8mm DOH.

Thanks for the advice on the brakes, will take it easy.r

Weyhey I've cracked it! All back together & all seems to work phew!

I first had a go at this on 27/07, now 06/08 & just finished

But did you regrease the runners for the caliper?

One of mine had rusted in place after just a year! Use plenty of copper grease for them too, otherwise next time it will mean exchanging the brackets for new ones.

Best one is cracking off those caliper/pad retainers.

I removed mine without too much stress which please me so end but I also first use heat and WD40 before even trying on such rusty looking things.

eEm wrote:But did you regrease the runners for the caliper?

One of mine had rusted in place after just a year! Use plenty of copper grease for them too, otherwise next time it will mean exchanging the brackets for new ones.

Thanks, yes all 're-greased' no squealing, keeping me fingers crossed it stays that way.

Worse bit for me was getting those blessed retaining screws out. I bought an impact driver, but think I've knackered it by whacking it too hard

I have replaced the screws, though many folk don't bother so I'm told. The new ones are black with torx-drive and the heads are smaller so they go into the counter sunk hole on the disc. (as opposed to the old ones that were gold with cross-drive)

Good idea replacing the screws since it stops the disc moving around when trying to locate the wheel back on