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Juddering in 1st and reverse!!

Posted: Sat May 14, 2005 11:47 pm
by guitarcarfanatic
RIGHT!!! My 480, the thing that by the looks of it is going to make the bank manager hate me has a slight problem. When i go to pull away in 1st or reverse the car judders like hell and it feels like its gonna stall. Even if i give more revs it still trys to stall and judders really bad. Now i immediately figured that my clutch is shagged. I only paid £85 for the car so wasn't too bothered but when i took it for a bit of a spin, it seemed ok. As soon as i had released the clutch fully the car was fine and then it was fine whatever gear it was in. I tried flooring it in second and third(i have never driven such a fast car :D ) and it did not seem to slip at all and ran perfectly until i had to pull away again! Now this made me think it was another problem...I have a very large hole in the exhaust rear silencer at the moment (about 2 inches square as well as maybe another smaller hole i'm not sure about ) which give one hell of a noise (my GF described it as sounding liek a bear). Could this being loose have anything to do with the juddering and shaking very violently when pulling off? Please help me lol!!! Cheers and many thanks to all you lovely (knowledgeble) people who will help my little 480 be restored to her former glory!!!

Posted: Sat May 14, 2005 11:52 pm
by dragon
Sounds to me like your engine mount may be shafted...

Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 12:06 am
by guitarcarfanatic
Is that an expensive/easy job to do? I have done it on a renault 5 before...but that was a 1.1 engine and i could lift the engine and gearbox up on my own!!! lol! Any help and advice about how to do this would be much appreciated! Cheers Rob

Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:29 pm
by rpruen
It depends on the year of the car. If it's an old type engine mount then it's cheap enough, one from a scrappy will be ok.

The newer type oil filled (it's round) mount isn't so good, so there are few if any unbroken ones in the scrappy. They are quite expensive from volvo, and a total pain to do.

Just check the metal bracket as well as those tend to snap as well, if you order a new one, then you get one that has metal twice as think, so that's worth doing if yours is broken.

Post what type of engine mount you have, and I (or someone else) will be able to help more. Also use the search feature, that may turn up some info too :)

Richard

Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 9:13 pm
by guitarcarfanatic
It's a 1989 f reg so i believe it has the older mounting. How can i check which mounting is broken? Cheers for the advice, Rob

Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 2:28 pm
by Baffler
4 poster lift and a tommy bar is you best option otherwise it's down on the flat of your back...

I'm one to talk, I think my rear engine mount is gone too as I have been getting a vibration back through the pedals and steering column/wheel. It's most noticeable @ 15/16/1700 rpms. Also, when I'm cruzing along at an average speed the rear view mirror vibrates and I can't see out of it clearly... I'm scared to ask Volvo for a price :scared:

Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 3:00 pm
by Big Brother
rpruen wrote:The newer type oil filled (it's round) mount isn't so good, so there are few if any unbroken ones in the scrappy. They are quite expensive from volvo, and a total pain to do.

Richard
:cryhard: That means mine is going to be a right bastard to do :cryhard:

Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 3:08 pm
by dragon
Mine is so knackered you wouldn't believe.

But mine is easy to fix, since the engine is already out :)

I'll be taking the opportunity to replace the newer type with the stronger older type when I do it :)

Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 9:17 pm
by rpruen
The older type won't fit on the newer type subframe, just so that no one gets the wrong part thinking that they are interchangable.


If you have the new type then you need to change the subframe to the old type, and also the front left gearbox mounting needs to be changed. Lots of work if the engine isn't already out of the car.

I do have an adapter plate to convert the old type engine mount to fit the new type subframe. Only one exists so I'm open to offers. I will just warn you that it is not easy to fit, in fact you need rubber wrists to do the bolts up.

Richard

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 11:36 am
by dragon
Rich is correct - I neglected to mention that I'm changing subframes too

Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 8:16 pm
by lee
That means mine is going to be a right bastard to do
This is not bad. The rear engine mount is very easy to change as long as you the the tools to do the job.

The bracket for the newer style engine mount is not too expensive, if i remember right it was only £30 inc vat. But the mount is more like £70 + vat

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:23 am
by chris1roll
the mount is more like £70 + vat
IIRC when Richard rang up to get prices, you could easily double that then add some. Stupid money. Which is why we made the adapter plate to fit an old type one.

Posted: Sat May 21, 2005 2:23 pm
by Baffler
FYI...

Round type:P/N 3417259 according to Vadis/main dealer. €114 plus vat.
I have the B18EP engine (M57 gbox).

Posted: Sat May 21, 2005 7:03 pm
by rpruen
I think the price must have gone down since then! It came as a bit of a shock when I phoned up for a price.

Also as with some of the other parts, prices seem to be different from Volvo dealer to Volvo dealer?

Richard

Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 9:18 am
by chris1roll
Yeah, seem to, although I thought you rang Taunton Motor co, Formula Cars, and Shipham......

Still, don't need to worry about that particular part any more!

Juddering clutch

Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 10:37 am
by heavend
Did you get it fixed in the end?
I'm noting alot of people on the net commenting on their clutches juddering when the car was cold (which mine is doing) and getting better once warm.
I blamed the engine mounts - which were OK - before I found that the engine movement damper had come loose. Fixing this helped alot, but the juddering when cold remains.

Re: Juddering in 1st and reverse!!

Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 12:01 pm
by balto8
I know it's an old post but I'd like to share some information.
I've been fitting a new clutch in my 1991 turbo and while dismounting the gearbox we saw the rear gearbox rubber support was broken and replaced it. Most of the dashboard vibration on 1st and 2nd gear are gone.