Taking the gearbox out.

[martinholmesuk]

Anyone done this on a 1991 turbo automatic?

Whats the score when doing this? Are all turbo automatic the same ?

I want to start this weekend on my own. My dad will be away on his hols so all tips are welcome and it don't matter how long it takes because the car is just on the drive.

Cheers

Martin

[chris1roll]

haven't done it on an auto. i think because the auto box is bigger, you may need to remove the engine and box. still it would make ieasier for you to get the turbo off for me
i'll have a look on sidav.....

[martinholmesuk]

Thanks Chris, Would you put pics on also. My sidav has never worked

[chris1roll]

hmm, its exactly the same as haynes, and has no mention of the auto box. looks like you do it be lowering the subframe slightly, and take it out between subframe and the side member of the engine bay.

[chris1roll]

Copy paste:

Note! Before removing the gearbox it is neccessary to determine the method that has to be followed.
The decisive factor for the choice of method is the routing of the coolant hose from the radiator to the cylinder at bttom right.
When this coolant hose runs under the subframe, the method without removal of the subframe should be followed (see D1-D28) "Gearbox removal, method without removal of subframe" . If, on the other hand, the coolant hose runs over the subframe, the method with removal of the subframe should be followed (see G1-G23) "Gearbox removal, method with removal of subframe"
Note! Before starting these operations clean the engine compartment (if necessary).
Note! On models with a separate bonnet stay, open the bonnet as far as possible and attach a pull–off spring between the stay and the vehicle body.

Preparations
Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position and engage the steering wheel lock. Open the bonnet to the service position (see illustration).


B18 E model:
Remove the battery and battery tray
-Disconnect both battery cables (negative cable first).
-Remove the battery clamp.
-Remove the battery from the vehicle.
-Remove the bracket from the air filter housing.
-Release the four bolts and remove the battery tray.
Remove the air filter together with the air mass meter
-B18 Turbo model:
-Disconnect the wiring from the air mass meter at the connector.
-Disconnect the hose from the air mass meter (at the turbocharger end).
-Pull the air filter assembly off the three attachment points and remove it together with the air intake pipe.
-B18 E/F models:
-Unhook the clips for the air filter cover on the air mass meter.
-Pull the air filter assembly off the three attachment points and remove it together with the air intake pipe.
-Other models:
-Disconnect the battery negative cable.
-Remove the air intake hose (B18 K engines).


Release the starter motor
Remove the bolt (1) from the clamp for the Pulsair lines (if fitted).
E/F engines (without turbocharger) remove the bolt (2) from the heat shield.
Remove the three attachment bolts (3).
Cut through the tie–fastener on the speed sensor cable (E/F engines).


Disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox casing (mechanical speed indication)
Clean the assembly area.
Unhook the retaining pin from behind the bracket and remove the clip.
Carefully release the speedometer cable by pulling it upwards.
Blank off the opening.


Remove the speed/position sensor
Remove the two bolts from the speed/position sensor, lift it out of the gearbox and suspend it to one side.


Remove the gearbox attachment bolts at the top
Note! The bolt at the release fork is shorter than the two other bolts; from chassis no. 505000 this bolt is coloured black.
Remove the three attachment bolts.


Disconnect the clutch cable from the gearbox
Remove the vibration damper (1) (if fitted).
Cable with backnut:
Insert a screwdriver between the backnut and the plastic casing.
Turn the screwdriver clockwise so that the backnut turns as well.
Continue to release the backnut with the fingers until the clutch cable can be taken out of the release fork.
Pull the cable with the plastic casing out of the gearbox mounting.


Locate the support beam
Volvo 440:
remove at both sides the bolts from the front wings at the stands.
Bring support beam 999 5006 in position and locate the lifting hook in the rear lifting eye.
Note! For the Volvo 480 and the Volvo 440 Turbo use lifting hook 999 5115 For all other models use a standard lifting hook.
Locate the extra fixture 999 5383 and insert a lifting hook 999 5115 in the front lifting eye.


Raise the front end
Place stands under the front jacking points.
Remove the front–left wheel.


Drain the gearbox oil
Remove the engine splash guard.
-Drain the oil:
-Place a drip tray under the gearbox.
-Remove the drain plug.
-After draining the oil, replace the plug with a new (solid) sealing washer. Tightening torque: 35 Nm (3.5 kgm).


ABS models:
Remove the front wheel sensor
Remove the sensor attachment bolt.
Release the sensor by rotating it and take it out of the stub axle carrier.


Release the front–left caliper from the stub axle carrier
Lift the hose out of the bracket (up to chassis no. 520380: remove the retaining clip).
Remove the two attachment bolts and suspend the caliper as high as possible.
Note! Never leave the caliper suspended from the flexible brake hose.


Remove the side shield (if fitted)
Remove the two self–tappers.
Pull the shield away from the side member.


Remove the front–left wishbone, stub axle carrier and half–shaft as a complete assembly
Remove the three bolts from the half–shaft seal on the gearbox.
Remove the two bolts from the stub axle carrier/shock absorber.
-Release the steering rod ball joint from the stub axle carrier.
-Remove the split pin and the castle nut.
-Use special tool 999 2294 and press the steering rod ball joint off the stub axle carrier.
Remove the two wishbone bolts from the subframe and take off the assembly.
Blank off the sliding tripod joint and the opening in the gearbox.


Disconnect the remote control rod from the gearbox
Slide back the dust gaiter.
Remove the bolt.
Put the remote control rod to one side.
Note! Do not mislay the fitted sleeve and the nylon cover.


Release the engine/gearbox mounting
Remove the bolt from the gearbox.
Release the two bolts and press the mounting downwards.


Remove the flywheel guard
Remove the three bolts and take off the guard.


Remove the half–shaft heat shield
Old variant: remove the three bolts.
Variant with large heat shield: slacken the top–left bolt and remove the other two bolts.
Remove the heat shield.


Remove the steering housing heat shield
Remove the attachment bolts and take off the heat shield.


Disconnect the right–hand half–shaft
Remove the double spring pins.
Move the half–shaft outwards as far as possible.


Remove the speedometer sensor (models with electronic speedometer)
Remove the socket–head screws from the attachment plate.
Pull the sensor carefully out of the gearbox casing.
Blank off the opening in the gearbox.


Release the starter motor heat shield (turbocharged engines)
Disconnect the oil return line from the turbocharger unit, lower the engine as far as is necessary and remove the upper bolt from the heat shield.
Release the bolt at the rear end and pivot the heat shield to one side.


Disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
Remove the nut and the washer.
Disconnect the wiring at the connector.
Disconnect the wiring, pass it (and, if fitted, the speedometer sensor) through the eye on the gearbox and put it to one side.


Release the steering shaft universal joint from the pinion shaft
Treat the parts with a de–rusting agent.
Remove the bolt.
Press the universal joint upwards as far as possible.


Release the subframe
Remove the nut from the engine mounting at front–left at the subframe end.
Release the four subframe nuts as far as possible.


Release the gearbox/subframe mounting
Volvo 480 up to chassis no. 521500:
Release the mounting from the subframe; remove the two bolts (13).
Other models:
-Release the mounting from the rear mounting pad on the subframe.
-Lower the engine as far as is necessary.
-Remove the two bolts (A).


Remove the front–left gearbox mounting
Remove the nut (9).
Remove the four bolts (10) and take off the mounting and pad assembly; when doing this, raise the engine slightly.
Note! The mounting pad bolt cannot be removed.


Disconnect the reversing light switch wiring
Disconnect the wiring from the switch and take it out of the bracket on the gearbox cover.


Release the gearbox
Raise the engine at the rear end with the spindle to the correct working height.
Release the bolt or nut at the rear end of the gearbox.
Remove the bolt at the front end of the gearbox.


Volvo 480 up to chassis no. 521500:
Remove the gearbox/subframe mounting from the gearbox
Remove the two nuts (16).
Remove the two bolts (17); when doing this, raise the engine slightly.
Move the mounting as far as possible to the rear.


Separate the gearbox from the engine
Remove the two nuts and washers from the subframe at the left.
Release the steering shaft universal joint from the steering housing.
Press the gearbox away from the engine with the aid of a screwdriver while pulling the right–hand half–shaft out of the gearbox. Place the gearbox on the subframe.
Withdraw the gearbox between the vehicle body and the subframe.
Caution! In view of the weight and unwieldy nature of the gearbox, it should be removed and carried by two persons.

[martinholmesuk]

That's a shit load of stuff!

I need my dad then, Well I can do some of it I guess.

[dragon]

That... is.... bonkers!


Good luck with the ABS sensor - mine was corroded on and was impossible to remove when I did my bearing had to chop the cable and make it good later with solder and tape.

[chris1roll]

its the same as what i am going to have to do to change the clutch.

pols done it several times.


though if i am changing my turbo manifold, i may as well lift the engine out, and make it easier.

[pol]

Wouldn't worry about your coolant hose thing. Just remove it. Or cut it. On your new (older car) it'll probably be routed under the subframe.

Remove the subframe. It's easier.

You need to buy or hire a hoist or engine support beam before you get started. Also a good toolkit with lots of crazy extenstions.

It sounds a lot but it's not that bad. Me and turbotwat are finally going to do his on Sunday / Monday.

Follow chris's instructions. Get a mattress / big old duvet to bounce the old gearbox out onto.

Make sure you have a good angle grinder to hand if the wishbone bolts haven't been moved for a while! Dont waste your time trying ot move them if they dont want to shift.

It does take a long time the first time, but its good 480 experience!

I'm looking forward to Radio 1's 10 hour takeover on bank holiday Monday! Just 10 hours of cheesy requests! Helped me through my cars first gearbox off. I'd reccomend it...

Erm... have fun!

pol

[sakis480]

Only one person??? sorry friend but that think is almost 100 kg, and you must have someone to help you too....

[Ernie]

I've been there ...

Given enough time and resources, you will get there too! However, not on your own...you will need a (strong) mate or at least a jack or crane. Lowering the subframe is indeed an essential thing to start with.
Most difficult part of the job is when you are nearly finished ... lifting up the heavy transmissionbox and putting it exactly back on its mountings. (dont forget the "pasbussen" (can not translate this - the small parts that are needed for the exact fitting)

Bon courage!

[pol]

TurboTwat (Phil) my modding bud has mastered the gearbox 'bench press' technique! Whilst I hold some ropes in case he drops it on his head! Works a treat.

pol