Reverse gear problems

hamish · Post by **hamish** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 2:36 pm

Got a problem with reverse gear... Firstly it crunches when going into reverse. However the bigger problem is a lack of drive in reverse gear. It's fine on the flat, but if I try to reverse up a hill in makes a grinding noise and there's no drive getting through.. so won't go anywhere... Not sure if it's a linkage issue or a more serious gearbox problem?

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 5:46 pm

Do you have a floppy knob?

C

480 Tatey · Post by **480 Tatey** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 6:25 pm

stig · Post by **stig** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 7:09 pm

Is a Floppy Knob serious ?

I fear that I may also have one !!

Cheers

Stig

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:48 pm

It's quite serious... but all you need to do is get someone to slide
underneath and adjust your nuts until your knob stiffens.

Everything slides in much more easily once things firm up.

C

stig · Post by **stig** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 9:59 am

Aye Cerberus......I was suffering from the usual Saturday morning blues until I read your reply..

Brilliant !!..........spontaneous laughter ......you have set me up for the day....Cheers.

I fear however that Hamish may still require some assistance. Apologies to Hamish, we feel for you.

Cheers

Stig

Yossarian · Post by **Yossarian** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 11:04 am

My knob crunches when going into reverse. It still has plenty of power though, whichever way it's going.

glasgowjim · Post by **glasgowjim** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 11:14 am

No Cerby is right translating he said

stage 1 if the gear stick is very loose and floppy ie not a nice tight definite gear positionining then that is a sign of one of 2 things

stage 2 go under car and follow the long gear linkage to the engine remove cover panel and you will see a rubber boot cover the connection move this clear and you wil see a bushing and an attachment nut which holds the assembly he the engine/bearblok . Tighten nut if tight check bushing .

Oh one thing you can also check is open up the bonnet and check hat he engine block has not moved to the drivers side which can happen if the front engine mounting NS (passenger) has sheared in 2 . This can be checked by carefully jacking up engine and doing a visual check of mount .
If all else fails it is back to the bearbox.

however I much prefer Cerby's description ..........

I wonder if he does dodgy film scripts

stig · Post by **stig** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 11:22 am

Well done Glasgowjim......just as well that someone took this seriously (almost).

Good luck wi' yer Knob and yer Nuts Hamish.

Cheers

Stig

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 5:08 pm

It's all mechnical gold.. you just got to be able to translate cerby-speak

GJ's translation is correct

Cry havoc and let slip the dog of war

C
(Officially 'good' at havoc)

Yossarian · Post by **Yossarian** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 11:25 pm

It would have been awesome if someone had slipped some flange into the equation.

richj · Post by **richj** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 11:35 am

glasgowjim wrote:No Cerby is right translating he said

stage 1 if the gear stick is very loose and floppy ie not a nice tight definite gear positionining then that is a sign of one of 2 things

stage 2 go under car and follow the long gear linkage to the engine remove cover panel and you will see a rubber boot cover the connection move this clear and you wil see a bushing and an attachment nut which holds the assembly he the engine/bearblok . Tighten nut if tight check bushing .

Oh one thing you can also check is open up the bonnet and check hat he engine block has not moved to the drivers side which can happen if the front engine mounting NS (passenger) has sheared in 2 . This can be checked by carefully jacking up engine and doing a visual check of mount .
If all else fails it is back to the bearbox.

however I much prefer Cerby's description ..........

I wonder if he does dodgy film scripts

thankyou, I was about to start a thread with this same issue. Glad I didnt now :p