removing gearbox help

The Great Nothing · Post by **The Great Nothing** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:20 pm

Hi all,

I'm changing my broken gear box in my '94 turbo - for a working replacement (let me know if you got one sitting around).

I have removed the all the bits under the left side wheel arch including drive shaft. And all the items from the air box area under the bonnet. Also removed all the cables, wires, clipped parts, clutch etc, that I can see getting in the way of removing the gearbox.

Now I feel I'm getting stuck, even with (or maybe especially) after reading the Haynes manual.

So I got a few questions -

1. Do I really need to remove the starter motor? Why? I could just feed the wiring from the battery through the hole in the mounting bracket, so it does not snag on anything when the box is removed?

2. How do I 'release the steering column universal joint from the pinion shaft'? Sounds scary! Where do I find this? Is it necesary?

3. Where are the roll pins I need to 'drift out' of the right hand side driveshaft?

Once I have cleared the above points, I plan to support both the engine and gear box, then just undo all the bolts attaching gearbox to engine and all the gearbox mounts, then wrestle it out through the subframe...is this dumb/impossible? Hints and tips are much appreciated.

Thanks

Matt

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:59 pm

The Great Nothing wrote:Hi all,

I'm changing my broken gear box in my '94 turbo - for a working replacement (let me know if you got one sitting around).

I have removed the all the bits under the left side wheel arch including drive shaft. And all the items from the air box area under the bonnet. Also removed all the cables, wires, clipped parts, clutch etc, that I can see getting in the way of removing the gearbox.

Now I feel I'm getting stuck, even with (or maybe especially) after reading the Haynes manual.

So I got a few questions -

1. Do I really need to remove the starter motor? Why? I could just feed the wiring from the battery through the hole in the mounting bracket, so it does not snag on anything when the box is removed?

2. How do I 'release the steering column universal joint from the pinion shaft'? Sounds scary! Where do I find this? Is it necesary?

3. Where are the roll pins I need to 'drift out' of the right hand side driveshaft?

Once I have cleared the above points, I plan to support both the engine and gear box, then just undo all the bolts attaching gearbox to engine and all the gearbox mounts, then wrestle it out through the subframe...is this dumb/impossible? Hints and tips are much appreciated.

Thanks

Matt

1) No way would you have to do that!

2) thats a bit of a bugger to do. flexible ratchet spanners help. its a fingertip job though, and you gotta be underneeth. It may be possible to leave it connected - i've never removed the gearbox the haynes way.

3)Theres no roll pins, thats haynes bollocks.

The Great Nothing · Post by **The Great Nothing** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:05 am

Thanks John,

You confirmed my thoughts (especially about Haynes!)

So tonight I plan to remove the bolts from the gearbox rear mounting brackets, then remove the gearbox to engine bolts, then remove the gearbox front mounting bracket bolts. Then pull the gearbox towards the left wheel arch (hopefully the right drive shaft will fall out of the diff). Then drop the box through the front subframe and withdraw under the car.

Sounds easy! Cant wait!

Matt

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:20 am

The shaft will indeed fall out. Sounds about right to me.

Haynes is a right arse. I set up a facebook group about it, with me as the only member. Entertaining mistakes when removing the engine:-

It doesn't tell you to remove the bottom rad hose.
It has no idea about the existance of a PAS pump.
No 400 series volvo was ever turbocharged.
It tells you to do the rad fan for no reason, and you can't even get it out without removing a whole load of hoses - which it doesn't tell you to remove.

In the end i just do what i normally do and just do it my way. Its just a shame, because its nice to have a checklist so you don't miss anything.

Richmann1 · Post by **Richmann1** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 2:56 pm

Mine had a roll pin on the righthand side shaft which i had to remove to get the box out just thought i would warn you as maybe some have it

.

Rich

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:00 pm

What car was that rich? I've seen 3 m59 gearboxes (94 Turbos), and one M60 (94 2.0), and none of them have had this.

Richmann1 · Post by **Richmann1** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:04 pm

This was on my Turbo Collection which is an m59 box. Not sure maybe i have an odd one

Rich

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:09 pm

LHD? God knows!! There was a hole in the gearbox stub?

Richmann1 · Post by **Richmann1** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:22 pm

Yeah it was a pain in the backside to get out. Definetly remember trying to drift it out from underneath not easy

Rich

The Great Nothing · Post by **The Great Nothing** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:33 pm

news just in....

My right hand drive '94 turbo had the 2 drift pins in the right side drive shaft. Fortunately they were a piece of p1ss to knock out...this allowed the right hand drive shaft to move about 2-3 inches towards the drivers wheel.

all good, but...

still cant drop the f'ing box out. Removed all the bolts from the front and rear gear box mounts. removed all visible (and invisible) bolts from around the top/sides of the engine to gearbox joint face, and removed the 4 bolts across the bottom of this joint. But even with much josling and jigling, I couldnt get it out.

Am I missing anything important? It feels like there is something around the back of the engine (under the turbo ish) that is stopping things sliding apart...but cant see or feel anything.

Could it be the clutch holding it all together? It has been stood for 18months (and I forgot to push the clutch before disconecting the cable!)

Should it all slide apart quite easilly?

Thanks guys

M

Richmann1 · Post by **Richmann1** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:37 pm

Mine split quite easy i had taken the engine out to do it though i seem to remember a bolt quite well hidden near the starter but im not to sure it was a while ago.

Cheers

Rich

pol · Post by **pol** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:42 pm

I think you do need to remove the starter motor!...? Aren't at least one of the starter bolts also connecting to the gearbox? I'm pretty sure you'll have missed one or 2. Which are in the location you are mentioning...

Rollpins are easy if you use a broken drill bit of suitable size.

There may be a couple of locating dowels.

pol

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:05 am

Wait, are these rollpins on the hub side of the driveshaft?

The starter doesn't share gearbox bolts, but there is a bolt behind it (if i remember right, it was only last week!)

You got the three little ones in the steel tubular bracket underneeth?

If you're sure they are all out, try prizing a little with a screwdriver.

The Great Nothing · Post by **The Great Nothing** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 9:25 am

hi,

The pins are shown in the driveshaft section of the haynes manual (actually correctly!) - best to look at this section rather than go by what would be a terrible description by me!!

I gave it a little prize with a screw driver at the front of the engine/gearbox - it opened a little, but I think there must be a bolt or 2 hidden in the starter area...damn.

Guess I will take a few more bits off tonight to try and access the starter area, then see what I can do about finding this last bolt.

Fun!

M

heavend · Post by **heavend** » Sat Oct 20, 2007 9:10 am

Done three, and half way through one now. Got it down to three hours.

1. The starter motor does have to come off. There is the one last bolt holding the bell housing to the motor underneath it. The starter/heatshield and stupid rear bracket is a pain in the arse to get off. Poor design. I found it easier to take the first section of the exhaust off to improve access. Then I MIG the two pieces of the bracket together for re-assembly....you might see why...
2. The roll pins are there. If the drive shaft is clean all you'll see is a little hole about 4mm in diameter. The pins are concentric - one inside the other. Worth spending a couple of quid on a set on pin punches.
3. Haynes is entirely correct, if a little bit around the houses.

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