Speedo

chriskay · Post by **chriskay** » Thu Nov 13, 2003 6:52 pm

My speedo has started working erratically; Quite a common problem I think. Probably a poor connection at one of the plugs at the back of the dash?? Also, one of the dash illumination bulbs has gone intermittent, but I'm not sure whether the two things happen at the same time. I know I'll have to take the dash out (no great problem; done it a few times) but my main question is, when the speedo isn't working, is the fuel indication/mileage remaining correct or not? I know the average speed/fuel consumption is not accurate. Any help or advice appreciated.
Thanks, Chris Kay

gerrsvolvo · Post by **gerrsvolvo** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 10:25 am

Hi Chriskay
If the speedometer is not working and this is due to a bad connection on the back of the speedometer than the infocenter does not get any information to be able to calculate the average speed and fuelconsumption and so on.

Succes
gerrsvolvo

ESone · Post by **ESone** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 11:26 am

But i think that the indication of the kilometres you can do with the fuel you got is right...

i don't know if you understand what i mean

but when the button is in the middle position the indication is right.

gerrsvolvo · Post by **gerrsvolvo** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 12:33 pm

I think that you cannot on forehand trust the display of the rest km or milage.
Becaus if the problem is in the connector to the dashboard. The computer does not get information on point of the numbers of wheel revolutions only on the number of fuelinjections. So it cannot calculate and compare the distance covered against the numbers of fuelinjections.

However the normal indiactor for the fueltank works separatly form the computer in this aspect. Should also show the fuellevel in your tank.
Succes
Gerrsvolvo

Gimle · Post by **Gimle** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 1:59 pm

I agree with gerrsvolvo... If the avg speed and fuel consumption doesn't work (which must have current speed and current fuelconsumption in the calculation) how can the remaining milage be correct?

The fueltank indicator on the other hand should be correct...

ESone · Post by **ESone** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 3:49 pm

That's what i try to say...damned!

David Thornber · Post by **David Thornber** » Sat Nov 15, 2003 6:59 pm

I had this happen on my old ES, the speedo failed. The above posts are spot on, the range, consumption and average speed readouts will all be incorrect. The fuel gauge will be ok, the only annoyance is the range warning light flashing when you still have half a tank of petrol.

volvofox · Post by **volvofox** » Sat Nov 15, 2003 7:36 pm

there is a thick grey wire couvered with steel (Coaxcable), I mean sortof like an antennacable for tv or radio. The wire in there is very brittle. Make a d-tour with some cables to the sensor. I seen a lot of cars who had this. Also one with a plug in the dash housing as green as grass. clean best with grandpa's interdental brush

and some contactspray
Look up in the electric schedule the colours and entrances in the clockhouse.

The only way to solve this it to get to work, look and stay cool. print the right page of the schedule this will help.

Luck
JPf

chriskay · Post by **chriskay** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 7:06 pm

Thanks guys for all of your advice. Today I found an instrument panel with the right colour connectors(grey & green) at the breakers. It was labelled '440 Turbo' but since the colours were right I decided to chance it. Seems to work OK. One reason I went for it was that some previous owner had soldered some of the connecting pins on my old one, so I couldn't easily get the main board off to look for dry joints.
Chris.

Ben Harris · Post by **Ben Harris** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 7:50 pm

One of the two 480's which Dad had, had to have the speedo replaced by Volvo. He can't remember which one it was, but suspects it was the Turbo, rather than the ES, so that could explain why it's been soldered in the past - Volvo may have done it!

Ben.

chriskay · Post by **chriskay** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 10:43 pm

Hi, Ben. Seems unlikely that Volvo would have done it if it wasn't part of the original design. It may seem crazy, but I didn't notice whether the replacement one had any soldering. I'll be taking it out again soon; I've just ordered a new dash surround to replace my old damaged one, so I'll have a look. Don't suppose you can remember the mileage on the one that was changed? The one I've just replaced had 95,000 on. I thought it was a bit low for a 12 yr. old car.
Cheers, Chris

Ben Harris · Post by **Ben Harris** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 10:55 pm

I don't think the mileage was particularly high when it was replaced. He only had the car for about a year (possibly even less), and was only doing short journeys in it (40-miles a day, at most) to work. I'd imagine it was probably under 10,000miles, and certainly under 20,000!

I've know of another 480 which a friend has, where the speedo didn't work. When I took it out to try and fix it for him, that had had the connectors which held the speedo onto the main board soldered too. Aparently (acording to Dad), the speedo failure was a common fault, even as early as that (under 1yr old car), which was why I thought it could have been an official Volvo fix.... but i'm just guessing. Although thinking about it - if they'd gone to the touble of replacing the whole unit, I doubt they'd have bothered if soldering it would have cured it, so you're probably right!

How much was the dash surround, by the way? I replaced my damaged one with one from the scrappy, but the replacement is still slightly cracked. If they're not too expensive (knowing Volvo, that's probably not the case though!), I'll consider buying a new one for my 480.

Ben.

volvofox · Post by **volvofox** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 11:09 pm

solderedprint connectors can be opened: just make the one most to the outside hot, and in the same instant keep a pressure on the print to move. It pops as the soldered connector is hot enough. The print can bent a tiny bit (to much is not good for the leads on it) I opened a soldered dashhouse with no dammage

As you did all the soldered connectors take the print away, make the connectors hot and clean out the solder with forinstance a toothpick.

What you did is no guarantee for a solution: The dash you have might have the same illnes of other (halogen bulb) and also the problem is often outside the dashhouse, like the brittle covered cable, or a green connector.

I hope youre lucky dough.

JPF

Ben Harris · Post by **Ben Harris** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 11:14 pm

Yes, this was what I had to do to my friend's 480. Upon reassembly, the speedo began to work, but quite wobbly (which was better than when it didn't work at all before!). My next area of suspicion in this case was the voltage regulator, but haven't got round to changing it yet.

Ben.

chriskay · Post by **chriskay** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 1:18 pm

Hi, Volvofox & Ben,
Thanks for the tip about unsoldering; I'll try that on the old unit. The new one works perfectly but I'd like to repair the old one so I have a spare.
Ben; I talked to my Volvo agent today & he confirms that the soldering on the 5 pins was an official Volvo mod. (not the 4 at the other end of the board though). The dash surround cost Â£38 (with 10% off) +VAT. I'm now going back to them to find out how the vent assembly at the left hand end comes out, 'cos it's not included!
Chris.

tevred turbo · Post by **tevred turbo** » Thu Nov 20, 2003 12:48 pm

Hi there

remember guys that the CEM provides the speedo with its signal!

i have had 3 cars that all had 'dropping' speedos I changed units, dashes and still the problems eventually re-occured!

The rear of the circuit board is flawed with weak soldering - a problem that was apparently corrected in 1992, its very easy to make a mistake and do more damage!

I changed the cem on my second car (it took ages to trace the right number 001, 002 etc) and the speedo now and the radio both work perfectly!

Hope this is useful

Anthony

volvofox · Post by **volvofox** » Fri Nov 21, 2003 2:46 am

No anthony. Youre right, but also wrong. There is a direct , wrapped in cable between the sensor and the clockhousing. I can immangine there is lots of cables going to the cem from the clockhouse though, that could have caused your cure.

the fact that I know this is because I have seen one remade, as the wrapped in (against magnetic influences) cable is veruy brittle, and some one made cables direct to the sensor.

In general I would advise not to be prejudged on the CEM to much, as often the solutions are much simpler.

luck
JPF

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