Ortovox77 wrote: ↑
Thu Feb 14, 2019 12:20 am
Regarding the pop-up motor check the relay first. Get a used relay from a junkyard to test with or if you have another Volvo 480 owner close that you can borrow from. I learned this the hard way after changing the pop-up motor twice just to find out that it was a 1minute fix by changing a relay that I had laying around
Ah, I thought I was the only one who made that mistake
The relays can be refurbished at little cost, though.
(lucky for me I have TWO fellow 480 owners in town and the biggest 480 breaker in the world is less than half an hour away)
About the lights, the 480 headlights and wiring should be capable of handling the 100W bulbs as I know someone who uses them in a Volvo 480. I'd rather not take the risk and stick to the Osram Night Breaker Laser or similar high brightness bulbs, they do have a limited lifespan.
DO NOT USE LED IN THE POP-UP HEADLIGHTS.
The beam pattern is off by a wide margin if there is a pattern at all. You have to point the beam down up to the point its range is useless, otherwise the beam will blind the oncoming traffic and it will fail MOT or whatever the technical inspection is called in your country. They do work fine in projector headlights, but LED is not suitable for reflector headlights which were designed for H4 or H7 halogen bulbs. Period.
I have LED in the DRL, but stay away from the cheap dodgy Chinese fleabay stuff, here's a demonstration why https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M05b47UtM1k
I have red Osram LEDriving in the tail/stop lights, which work surprisingly well with good difference in brightness between normal and "stop" operation, a feature that is usually bad in cheap Chinese LEDs. Also, they don't trigger the bulb failure which is good. They are a tad expensive, though.
For using LED in the indicators, you have to change the resistor to the flasher IC in the CEM, otherwise the bulb failure detection will trigger, causing the flasher to operate at double frequency. To my big surprise, the flashing is not computer controlled, there is a mysterious IC labelled VW BWR/1 which I found to be equivalent to U2043B (see http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe ... yzutry.pdf
). The IC uses a 30 milli-ohm resistor to measure lamp current, it is constructed as a piece of bent metal next to the flasher relay. For LED operation, I sugget to replace that resistor with 0.1 or maybe 0.15 ohm, depending on the efficiency of the LEDs used. The more efficient, the less current and the higher the resistor should be, the trigger voltage is 81mV. There is a potential problem with the operation, the IC is specified for a minimum of 10 watts load, LEDs will drop just below that. To be safe, you could leave standard bulbs in the side indicators, but I think it should give no problem. If it does, you could replace the IC with one designed for motorcycles.