Long range lights again

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ernibv
480 Newbie
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:45 pm
Location: Leiden Netherlands

Long range lights again

Post by ernibv » Mon May 11, 2009 4:42 pm

Volvo 480 ES 1995 left-hand drive
The symptoms all started at the same time:
Long-range lights don't work.
Interior lights (ceiling and rear-hatch) don't work.
Instrument panel indicates that a door is open.
The glove-box light and horn work (same fuse).
Rear fog-light works.
All switches and bulbs have been tested.
Forum information indicates a CEM problem.
...but I can't find the CEM. Is that weird, or am I just stupid?

The only electronics box i can find is a metal Siemans box mounted in the passenger foot-well just in front of the door hinge. This is inaccessable except by completely removing the dashboard and does not fit the descriptions mentioned on the forum.
Until now I have been able to fix all my electric problems and the car runs like a charm.
So, has anyone experienced this combination of failures?And where is the CEM hiding?
Any help would be appreciated. :angry:

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guitarcarfanatic
480 Is my middle name
Posts: 1782
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 12:31 am
Location: Taunton, Somerset

Post by guitarcarfanatic » Mon May 11, 2009 5:57 pm

You need the passenger footwell on a uk car which on your car is on the drivers side! Sit in the drivers seat and then it is to the left of your left foot but up a bit.

Good luck!
1996 Saab 9000 CSE 2litre EcoTurbo

Previously...
Peugeot 406 executive TD - The devil!

1991 Red Turbo - Great condition and surprisingly un-rusty!

1989 Light Blue metallic Turbo - Sold!

1993 Steel grey S - Bought for parts

1990 Red ES - Now resting in car heaven!

1989 Black ES - Great runner

1989 Black ES - Spares Car. I murdered it!

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glasgowjim
480 Is my middle name
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Location: GLASGOW SCOTLAND

Post by glasgowjim » Mon May 11, 2009 6:19 pm

to the side of your left foot as you sit in drivers seat .
pull off plastic bonnet release handle and unscrew the single screw
remove trim
the cem can be seen it is the black plastic box held on by 2 screws to the botom left and right hand side.

you do not need to remove glove box to remove cem . I have a spare if you need it!

regards jim

ernibv
480 Newbie
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:45 pm
Location: Leiden Netherlands

CEM location

Post by ernibv » Mon May 11, 2009 7:13 pm

Thanks for the info. I'll have a look in the morning. Do you concur that the problem is the CEM
grtz

ernibv
480 Newbie
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:45 pm
Location: Leiden Netherlands

Post by ernibv » Mon May 11, 2009 7:35 pm

Jim,
What do you want for the spare?

ernibv
480 Newbie
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:45 pm
Location: Leiden Netherlands

Post by ernibv » Tue May 12, 2009 12:33 pm

I have found the CEM.
Checked all the connections and solder points.
It looks like it's brand new.
Put it all back together and the problems are the same.
Any info on which relay switches the long-range lights?

ted clutch
Advanced 480 rookie
Posts: 509
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 2:53 pm

/

Post by ted clutch » Tue May 12, 2009 3:06 pm

plug the cem in with the cover off.operate the relays with a tooth pick or something.remember the lights have to be on.if this makes them work you have a cem problem.dont forget the long range switch is on near the heated seat switches.|

ernibv
480 Newbie
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:45 pm
Location: Leiden Netherlands

Post by ernibv » Tue May 12, 2009 6:33 pm

I'll give it a try.
I don't understand this part:
"don't forget the long range switch is on near the heated seat switches"
Do you mean the switch under the clock?
grtz

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glasgowjim
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Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:28 pm
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Post by glasgowjim » Tue May 12, 2009 8:11 pm

Yes he means the switch is below the main dashboard on the central part forward and up from the gear lever.

pm me if you still need a cem 3

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guitarcarfanatic
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Location: Taunton, Somerset

Post by guitarcarfanatic » Tue May 12, 2009 9:02 pm

Ok... To cannibalise a previosu post of mine, here is exactly how the long range lights should work...

"

When pop ups are down irregardless of whether the lamp switch is pressed: When the pop ups are down, pulling the flasher stalk forward should illuminate just the long range lamps and releasing the stalk turns them off. It will not click on and then have to be depressed again to turn it off.

When Pop ups are up, lamp switch depressed: Pulling the stalk gently should turn on main beam and long range lamps on and once realeased they should go out. A firmer pull back should switch main beam on which will then require another firm tug to turn it off. This is an important process to check as your stalk SHOULD be able to flash your main beam lights when you pull the stalk gently and then turn off when realeased. This is to save having to hard pull to turn the main beam on and then hard pull to turn them lights off.

When Pop ups are up, lamp switch not depressed: Main beam should come on, on it's own with no long range lamps. You should once again be able to merely flash the lights without them staying on by gently pulling the stick.

Other: A working stalk will also give you the option to flash the stalk with the car engine off and keys removed so your long range lamps light for 30 seconds to illuminate the your path to the door! "

"



So as a first test, press the long range light switch (next to heated seat switch) on. Now with the engine running, turn your lights on using the wheel to the left. Now activate full beam by pulling the indicator stalk in. Get out the car and check your lights to see if the long range lamps are on. Hopefully they will be. If not, post back and we can troubleshoot.

Rather than looking at all the problems as having a common cause, maybe they are seperate.

Do you have a sunroof? If so remove the interior light cover and make sure there is no corrosion. Also make sure the bulb is amking good contact.

As for the door thinking it's open all the time, Check the little push in peg located on the inside of the door hinge. This is the switch that controls that signal. Make sure it moves in and out ok. Check both sides, passenger and drivers.


If your CEM looks ok, the problems could be unrelated.

Good luck and post back with your results!
1996 Saab 9000 CSE 2litre EcoTurbo

Previously...
Peugeot 406 executive TD - The devil!

1991 Red Turbo - Great condition and surprisingly un-rusty!

1989 Light Blue metallic Turbo - Sold!

1993 Steel grey S - Bought for parts

1990 Red ES - Now resting in car heaven!

1989 Black ES - Great runner

1989 Black ES - Spares Car. I murdered it!

ernibv
480 Newbie
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:45 pm
Location: Leiden Netherlands

Post by ernibv » Thu May 14, 2009 11:32 am

Interesting developments here:
We found a loose wire that ws grounded behind the fuse-box.
Re-connected, and all the seemingly unrelated problems disappeared.
In the computer network world we call this a ground-loop. Some people call it a chaos-loop: you just don't know what confusion it will cause.
Thanks for you help, and I hope this experience wil be of use to someone.
grtz
ernibv

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