Volvo 480 Club Europe

I had problems starting the car. Volvo 480 turbo '95

After received a non fun discharge coming out from the distributor cap I have changed spark plugs, cables, distributor cap that was destroyed and cleaned the rotor. I bought a new rotor and apparently it was the same but didn't fit by an slightest difference in diameter.



The car continue to no start.

I've done a video of what happen.

From minute 4

https://youtu.be/Zd9ii7fkguM

Could it be the system/fuel pump rele or the fuel pump?

I've red another post about the rele problems.
Mine seems to be under the dash.



Thanks

The way that’s cranking and running at the same time, double check your firing order after the lead/cap swap. Keep in mind, flywheel end is number 1.

It sounds like it starts fine but then does not recognise that the engine is running and switches off the fuel. If this were a non-turbo car, running with a MAP sensor, I’d be looking at that and at the crank sensor… but you don’t have a MAP sensor and the crank sensor is working as the Rev counter moves.

You have a MAF instead of the MAP. Is that all connected up right and can you check the resistances at the pins there? The Haynes manual has the resistance values for all of the sensors and the MAP will have a big resistance range as it is adjustable.

If possible, can you get the blink code reader set up to check the fuel/ignition computer. It’s located on the suspension turret, in the engine bay.

Sorry to not be more helpful but I think MAF and the basic built-in diagnostics are a good start.

To those with a turbo car, I take it that it won’t run with the MAF disconnected, just like a N/A car won’t run with the MAP disconnected?

Thanks a lot for your help.

the blink code reader on my car has only 3 (ABS) 5 and 7, but I don't know what is 5 and 7. I have to investigate, the document I have assign 7 to airbag and I don't have airbag And the code came only once.

Adding more fuel to the admision runs the engine for a couple of seconds. This makes me think it can be the fuel pump.

https://youtu.be/aKd82uCOPnw

I discovered the relays under the dashboard. Which one is for the fuel pump? I'm going to bridge for checking the pump, when I turn the key, I don't hear any noise coming from the pump.

Thanks a lot for your help.

the blink code reader on my car has only 3 (ABS) 5 and 7, but I don't know what is 5 and 7. I have to investigate, the document I have assign 7 to airbag and I don't have airbag And the code came only once.

Adding more fuel to the admision runs the engine for a couple of seconds. This makes me think it can be the fuel pump.

https://youtu.be/aKd82uCOPnw

I discovered the relays under the dashboard. The white socket is the fuel pump. I'm going to bridge for checking the pump like Haynes explain conecting 87 and 30.
When I turn the key, I don't hear any noise coming from the pump.

Is it this document you are referring to? http://volvo480.myds.me/v480eu/download ... _codes.doc

Fuel pump checked with bridge on 87 and 30. The pump runs but doesn't start with the pump running.

jamescarruthers wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 23, 2021 11:31 pm

Is it this document you are referring to? http://volvo480.myds.me/v480eu/download ... _codes.doc

thanks, but it doesn't work to me that link.

Jay-Kay-Em wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 23, 2021 12:53 pm

The way that’s cranking and running at the same time, double check your firing order after the lead/cap swap. Keep in mind, flywheel end is number 1.

Have you checked and confirmed this?

jifflemon wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 24, 2021 4:11 pm

Jay-Kay-Em wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 23, 2021 12:53 pm

The way that’s cranking and running at the same time, double check your firing order after the lead/cap swap. Keep in mind, flywheel end is number 1.

Have you checked and confirmed this?

I have checked three times and it is ok. 1342 order firing. the distributor rotates anticlock wise.

I've Unplugged and checked the distributor cap another time.

Adding spray starter to the inlet manifold after the intercooler hose while craking and it has run a few seconds. this makes me think maybe is a lack of petrol or relays or fuel pressure regulator. something new to me, I'm afraid.

In the past in good running order (better than now) it took always a bit of cranking for starting, around 3 or 4 seconds. Maybe it is related to what is happening now and I don't think is normal in a modern car with electronic fuel inyection that delay on starting.

interchanging system relay and fuel pump relay (white socket) doesn't make any difference. I will buy new relays for discarding that.

And then, I will check the fuel pressure regulator, maybe it is stucked, but first I have to understand how it works reading about it.

We have two turbos and both crank for 3-4 seconds before firing, so I don't think this is abnormal.

Yep, my Turbo cranks that long and every single YouTube video I have watched of a Turbo does just the same.

You could argue the Turbo does have a MAP sensor - being integral to the EZ210K via the vacuum line connection.

Fuel / Ignition / Air & compression. Work your way through those methodically.

My experience of Bosch Jetronic fuel pressure regulators is they fail in the maximum pressure position. When operating correctly, high vacuum at idle makes them bleed more down the return line. Petrol destroys the internal diaphragm and they become permanently closed, meaning excessive fuel pressure at idle. Not many people would know that it had actually failed. Remember that pressure regulation is a post-rail process and not a pre-rail process.

There is no point speculating what your fuel pressure may or may not be when a full blown fuel pressure test kit, gauges and adapters are £16 from eBay.

I'm away for Chrstmas at the moment, but i'm fairly sure a Haynes manual has all the specifications you need. In fact, the process of disconnecting the rail feed line and doing a pump flow rate test into a beaker is fairly universal across all Jetronic equipped cars.

These new spark plugs you have installed.... what are they trying to tell you? Are they still clean? Do any exhibit combustion deposits? Do they stink of fuel?

Also check for induction leaks post- air flow meter. If the engine is drawing in air that the MAF isn't registering, then you'll have problems. I know the "elephants trunk" inlet hose can split adjacent to the turbine inlet side.

Thanks for your answers, I was making a check before reading those.

The spark plug had better moments in the past, I'm afraid. I would say it is very rich mixture, but of course I've added petrol directly to the inlet manifold.



I've checked if the petrol arrives to the rail. The fuel pump looks very noisy. The fuel goes out of the rail but maybe with not enough pressure.
I will buy that kit for checking fuel pressure. And maybe the regulator and the pump. I think it is too much noisy. Maybe is ending and is a good idea to have a good fuel pump.

I unscrew a bit the nut on the rail and the fuel goes out easily. But It doesn't mean there is enough pressure. I know is not that simple like a carburator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrZdA5PysU8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzwWlITOxiM

trying to start the engine with the fuel pump relay unplugged makes a very different noise. very flat, no signal of trying to start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoCTZw251Xo

with the relay plugged it tries to start at the beginning. Every time I try to start, the first try is the best.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-Xg2Q1OThU

After reading the Haynes and follow your directions, I don´t find a solution for this. The Haynes doesn´t say anything about the injectors and explain more about simplier engines like B18U.

I have ordered a fuel pressure kit for checking the pressure on the rail but I think there´s enough pressure on it as now is leaking on the return conection.

I have removed the fuel rail with the injectors, a pain as it is necessary to remove the inlet manifold for gain access and I couldn´t remove the rail with all the injectors but one by one.

No petrol comes from the injectors while cranking. I tend to think that the injectors don´t receive signal for opening. Who says to the injector to open? the ECU?

Ecu switches the injectors.

You’ve checked the crank sensor?

jifflemon wrote: ↑

Sat May 21, 2022 8:49 pm

Ecu switches the injectors.

You’ve checked the crank sensor?

No, and I know why, it took me a lot of time to find where it was, hidden by thousands of pipes and wires.

it was a bit dirty
I have checked it, 220ohm as Haynes says. So I think it works

How do I check the inyectors? If I apply 12v, do they move?

They get 12v from ignition, then the ecu earths them (in pairs, not sequentially)

jifflemon wrote: ↑

Tue May 24, 2022 7:03 pm

They get 12v from ignition, then the ecu earths them (in pairs, not sequentially)

Ok, it seems I´m close.

One inyector makes click on applying 12v, The others three sleep.

I´m putting WD40 on the interior hoping they come alive.

A garage is checking and trying to recover them with ultrasonics with no luck, only one works, so I´m looking for new ones. Difficult (and expensive) thing.

Problem solved.

I write the situation in case is useful for later users.
I have changed three of the four inyectors, they were stucked and not possible to recover. Probably the got stucked for not start the car during a long period and for sitting on a wet garage.

I have mounted everything and it was a bit tricky to place the rail with the inyectors. I put vaseline on the O-rings and this helps a lot to insert the inyectors, but to screw the rail is difficult, because of the position and angle of the screws pointing upwards. I recommed to unscrew the intermediate parts bolted on the head where the rail is attached, to unscrew but not completely and then screw the bolts of the rail to these parts. This gives a bit of play to the parts and is easier to bolt the rail.
Then add the electrical conectors.

In any case there is one big screw I don`t know where it goes, I´m a bit frustated about it.

The car started after a long crank. After that first time, it starts easily every time as it should.

https://youtu.be/mLOrlKQD5UU