Volvo 480 Club Europe

As the original part is obsolete (part no 3451221) and not very well engineered, does anyone know of alternative set-ups (not catch-cans or bodging a filter on the end of the oil strainer) that maintains satisfactory breathing through the inlet manifold and turbo inlet?

Rob

Yes, we have a solution. viewtopic.php?f=24&t=19542

In our how to section

Thanks for this but I cant see any pictures and the crankcase breather is not a recirc valve - it's a diagram and one way valve combined - plus, my car is unmodified.

Does anyone have an alternative method? I am currently experimenting with a few set-ups...

R

The pictures are showing for me? However, a recirc valve is just that - a one way valve. The diaphragm acts under vacuum, to open the valve.

I cannot see the pictures, sadly, as I do not have Photobucket membership. Yet, as the original part acts BOTH as a one way valve and as a calibrated restrictor under boost conditions, I fail to see how this conversion works in terms of the crankcase ventilation for an unmodified Turbo.

R

Both valves perform the same action, they open when a difference in pressure is detected between the inlet manifold and the hose they are connected to.
This is why the recirculation valve can be used to replace the crankcase breather. But mounting it is quite a hassle because of the different diameters of the connections.
Here the pictures would have helped, but they are not necessary for this diy job.

triumphtoledo wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 20, 2018 12:17 am

I cannot see the pictures, sadly, as I do not have Photobucket membership.

Even a Photobucket membership won't help you, the original uploaders have to pay a ransom of $400 to release the pictures to the public.
Luckily there is a workaround, I have managed to save the pictures and have added them to the thread.

Hi, here you can find some pictures from the Volvo service manual,
https://imgur.com/a/cMdH8
should help you understand how the valve works.
It is important to note that it's tree things in one, a non-return valve to avoid pressurising the crankcase, a diaphragm valve balanced with atmospheric pressure to avoid too much suction from the inlet (or you will be sucking oil up) and a bunch of calibrated holes to avoid pressure buildup in the crankcase when the non-return valve is closed.
I was researching this matter when I suspected mine was broken, and I was going to try to use this one

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-vol ... 6a129101d/
or a cheap chinese version maibe
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Sh ... 04668.html

plus a small non-return valve (like the metal ones for fuel lines) to go to the inlet

I was also thinking to 3d print a T junction with calibrated holes o connect it all