stalling and rough idle after start up?

[timrosser]

Hi All,

My 480 celeb is running roughly and stalling approximately 3 mins after starting up in the morning, but after 5-10 mins the revs stay at 900rpm and the car dosnt stall.

So far Ive replaced the fuel filter, dizzy cap, throttle sensor...

Any theory's, perhaps the automatic choke?

Best

Tim

[dcwalker]

Have you cleaned the idle control valve?

If not I'd certainly try that...

David

[jifflemon]

Automatic chokes don't exist in the fuel injection world.

I'm in agreement with DCwalker, cleaning the Idle control valve would be on my list of things to do. Carb cleaner and toothbrush will do it nicely.

Is your engine temperature gauge reading ok?

[Alan 480]

ASSUME N/A ??

also check the throttle position switch that lives BELOW the butterfly/throttle, it can get full of oil / cables broken and then can prove interesting results!

small pipe on drivers side of inlet manifold can fail (the one that goes to the bulkhead pressure sensor) though that tends to let car stall on lift-off as you approach a junction in neutral or clutch down

NB engine temperature reading is NOT the same as the one that the ECU uses, cabin display is on back o block, ECU is on front or N/S of block (from memory)

[Ade]

If you're looking for a 'comes and goes' air leak, don't rule out injector seals. Mine were in a bad way when I rebuilt my head, the car had always had a shitty idle and would sometimes conk completely under certain conditions (like the first minute or two after a hot start when left to heat soak for like 10-15 for example, ok not the same as your problem but don't rule it out as a possible cause) and, touch wood, it hasn't done it since the rebuild and I think it's down to the new injector seals as I had already ruled out air leaks anywhere else in an effort to sort it and never managed to, until now at least. All my sensors and ICV etc are all the same as before hence me thinking it was an air leak problem and that it seems likely to have been the injector seals because they were about the only possible point for an air leak left unchecked and now they are renewed, the problem seems to have gone away without having changed anything else that would have accounted for such behaviour.

[timrosser]

Thanks all, I've tried emptying a bottle of carb cleaner with no obvious effects, but my symptoms sound a lot like Alan's stalling at junctions etc, so I'll look into that, many thanks

Ti

[timrosser]

OK the idle control valve and pipe are the latest parts to have been changed out. Still the same symptoms, stalling a few mins after start up then running well after warm up.

Which would you guys go with next to investigate, are injector seals a full strip down kind of job?

Best

Tim

[Ade]

Injector seals aren't difficult to do, once you remove the top part of the inlet manifold you should see the fuel rail. Couple of brackets hold it in place, once these are off it should just pull out. The injector bores are 14mm, seals are fairly standardised, I used some from work designed for totally different bosch injectors and they were fine. Worth doing for the hour or so it will take and the few pennies for the seals.

[Alan 480]

Does the HBOL give the various resistances of the engine sensor that the ECU uses?

I'm at work so can't check, I could see what ours is sitting at when cold. might be different though for a two litre vs 1700?

If that wire has come off or the sensor resistance/connection is dicky then the ECU for car will think it is cold and set idle speed higher to compensate?

an easy check with very little tools required.

you could always pull the wire off and see if makes any odds, if doesn't change the way the car drives then possibly that is your problem?

only my tuppence worth

EDIT

ECU
WATER temp sensor 290 ohms +/- 20 for B18E
2500 for allothers

air inlet temp sensor 290 ohms +/- 20 for BLACK
2500 for all others BLUE

[timrosser]

Guys thats gold, I'm so grateful

Best

Tim

[eye of ra]

You may wish to check this tread out it may help. Make sure you read to the end.

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/forum/v ... 11&t=34640

[timrosser]

Current theory is valve seating Will keep you all posted!

Tim

[timrosser]

Great thread Ra thanks you- current theory is the valves as my cylinder pressures are all over the show, but I'll have a look at the fairly liquid cure myself when i get it back!

Best

Tim

[Rachel]

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/forum/v ... 11&t=12966

Have a look here. Not sure if it's the same but I solved my issue easily.

[timrosser]

Just for the record, my problem was the seating of the valves, I only had full compression on one cylinder so no wonder it was a bit of a state!

Thanks for all the help on this thread!

Tim