Volvo 480 Club Europe

Hello.

In the cambelt change 'official' instructions it says that a lock pin must inserted into a hole near the dipstick to lock the crankshaft.

Now, I've found the cover plug for that, but I can't see any evidence that it has ever been removed to insert the said lock pin . Car has had 5 or 6 cambelt changes since i've had it.

I am planning to do this myself next time, having only been to mechanics in the past.

How has a mechanic done the job without locking the crankshaft?

Also - is it really necessary to remove the v-rib crankshaft pulley? - Wouldn't the cambelt slide around it when fitting/removing?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Stephen

Suddy

I wouldnt worry about the locking pin, tried using it once and it was a waste of time.
I can do a cambelt in a couple of hours now, hardest job is getting the crankshaft pulley bolt off.
As for aligning everything, you can either use the markings on the crankshaft and the camshaft and use the markings on the belt, which is the best way ive found to get a definite line up.
Or the quickest way that i normal use is align the markings and use tipex or similar and mark where camshaft and crankshaft align on the cover.

If you need any more help let me know.

Cheers

Richard

Thankyou Richard,

So the crankshaft pulley definitely needs so be removed? Sounds like it.

I will take it apart once the weather starts getting warmer.

Stephen

Yeah afraid so, not too bad to get off easier with an air gun, but there are ways around it.

Cheers

Richard

Richmann1 wrote:Yeah afraid so, not too bad to get off easier with an air gun, but there are ways around it.

Cheers

Richard

yep air gun will break the thread sealer if it has never been apart, otherwise LONG bar and six sided impact socket (or a six sided extending arm wheel brace) and somebody with foot on brake and car in gear, top/fifth

air gun will free the bolt with an engine on the floor, little chance otherwise.

I use the white marks on timing belt AND line engine up (add a mark on back on metal part of timing cover before remove the plastic part) at TDC AND lock the engine. note that the timing mark on the bottom pulley DOES NOT line up with the key way, its one tooth (approx) out

So, Today was the day.

I spent well over an hour trying to get the locking pin bolt out. Ended up rounding it off. Accepted that it probably hasn't been removed for 15years.

Decided to have a go at removing the crankshaft pulley. No chance. car was 5th gear, wheels on the floor, and a 2ft breaker bar and it would not budge. I just didn't have large enough angle with the car on the drive and not on a ramp.

Going to go to a Friendly garage in the week, and get it cracked off with the air gun, then get them to bolt it back on by hand.

Nice day for it, but a total waste of time!

You're gonna need a bigger breaker bar if you want to play with a 480 that hasn't been apart for years

If you can't get the angle, use a couple of long extensions to bring the breaker bar out past the wheel arch, that's how I did it the first time years ago before the days of owning an impact gun. You can really give it some welly if you're standing up and able to hold the extensions steady and put your full weight on it.

Hefty ring spanner with a cranked end and big hammer (preferably copper or big dead blow mallet) works too when in need.

There is another trick but it depends how brave you are...

Put the breaker bar and the socket on the bolt, preferably wedging the socket onto the head with some packing like an old feeler blade or something so that you have to knock it on, rest the handle of the breaker bar on some blocks of wood etc., handle facing forward (important!), then, shit your pants and crank the engine over on the starter for an instant. F.F.S. make sure you prevent engine run by taking the king lead off or removing fuel pump/ignition relay or you'll have a hell of a mess on your hands if the engine catches. Not the most precise or best way but I can assure you it'll crack the bugger! Not done this personally on a 480 but it worked a charm on a Pug HDI a few years back that was putting up a hell of a fight with limited equipment around. If you try this, do so at your own risk, I am not responsible for your actions, I'm just letting you know something that worked for me in a moment of desperation. Obviously this will only work for a RH thread, thankfully most are and 99.9% of engines run clockwise looking from the timing end, allowing this to work.

Also, I'd agree that the belt marks are an easy and surefire way of getting it right. If you mark it up, you're relying on the fact that it was right before, not necessarily so unless it's never been done since factory build. An engine without cam position sensing (normally accompanies a VVT system) and OBD (in the modern sense, with EML) cannot tell you if the timing is off by a tooth or two and the engine will still run fine but the torque and power delivery characteristics will be slightly altered. Timing retarded, more bottom end, timing advanced, better top end, hence the beauty of a VVT system.

use a couple of extensions to get the tommy/breaker bar out into the open and support it at outer end on a jack, that way when you give it stamping it will translate into torque not fall-off mode,

PS I've heard of the spin it on starter before but never been brave enough, always managed to get the front nut free , eventually . . . .

if you do try the spin on starter again brace the pivot point against the chassis leg/jack with a block to ensure rotation

Well, it's done.

I had another go, the weekend before, at the crankshaft pulley but it wasn't moving.

As i'd been quoted £160 + VAT for ONLY THE LABOUR, I decided to buy myself cordless impact gun and try to do it.

What a tool - I had some doubts about the power of it because this bottom pulley seemed to be stuck fast. A few cracks of the impact gun and it was loosened. Brilliant tool.

I followed the advice here, didn't bother with the lock pin (rounded the plug off a few weeks ago trying to get it out), and it was all done in a couple of hours...

So all done - thanks to all the advice.
Stephen

Which gun did you end up buying?

I've been debating getting one for at home.

Makita DTW450Z...