Idle problem

[Zoist]

Hello Volvo people

I have just fired up the engine and it is giving me some trouble.

The first time I turned it on, the car-infocenter worked, but the engine hovered about 1300 RPM and suddenly it accelerated to 4000 RPM where it stayed
I quickly turn the engine off. I have to mention that the cooler was not connected at all.

the second time I fired it up I had connected the cooler and apply water. this time the engine stays with 1300 RPM. but the infocenter dos not work....
and when I hit the gas pedal, the engine is very slow to react. I can also hear that the engine is getting some false air, maybe a leaking air hose for the inlet.

I have uploaded a video for you guys, so you can see and hear for your selves what is wrong. I have to mention that the exhaust pipe is not fully mounted.

http://bilgalleri.dk/vid_vis.aspx?VideoID=43167

I really hope you can help me, because I really don't know what to do!

[nemielas]

this is B18F, right?
for RPM acceleration check connectors on air mass meter and throtle body.

[erik-hakkers]

It seems ur throttelhouse (correct me if wrong ) What sitting in front of the intake manifold. not working good (dirty?)

I have the same engine and had it one times .

good luck

[Zoist]

Hi

No it is a B18E engine.
I have tried to clean it and it seems ok.
Can it be the idle regulator? the long thing with in and outlet? it buzz then i have the ignition on, just before i start the engine. is it spouse to do that?

[nemielas]

Hi

No it is a B18E engine.
I have tried to clean it and it seems ok.
Can it be the idle regulator? the long thing with in and outlet? it buzz then i have the ignition on, just before i start the engine. is it spouse to do that?

if it's just stable high idle then try to find that air leak you've mentioned. use some carb cleaner or engine easy start spray and try to spray it around where you think leak is - rpm should rise.

idle valve regulator is more responsible for erratic idle. it could be sticking inside - using some small screwdriver or wire you can try carefully to spin through one or another hole some thingy inside to check it - don't know how to explain
also you can test resistance on connector between two most appart pins. I'm not sure about the correct value for it but somewhere around 20-100 Ohms should be fine. at the same time you could check resistance between the rest pins if it's 3 pin connector. resistance should also vary somewhere around 20-100 Ohms as far as I've seen.

[Van]

A suggestion, on the front of the engine is a thing that is fitted with a bolt that goes into the air intake of the engine. Without the bolt the engine does get false air.

[Zoist]

A suggestion, on the front of the engine is a thing that is fitted with a bolt that goes into the air intake of the engine. Without the bolt the engine does get false air.

du you have a picture?

[Zoist]

Hi Van

i found the missing bolt you was talking about, thank you:) no it is much better, 900-1000 RPM´s in idle could

[Van]

Great! Thanks!

[Van]

Here's a picture for future reference in case someone has an identical problem. Sorry I couldn't post it earlier.




The bolt at the arrow goes into the air intake system. When the bold is removed there is an opening and the engine is getting false air. (I can't understand this is engineered this way. Apart from the obvious it means there's an obstacle in the air intake system which should be as smooth as possible.)

[Zoist]

Hi

I can see you have a different intake than me so i just wanna show where the problem is on the B18E engine.


It is beneath the intake on this model, not easy to see!