Remove snapped off bleed screw

Melvin480 · Post by **Melvin480** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:11 am

I have a B20F with a bleed screw in the T-piece in the hose between the head and the heater matrix. I needed to bleed the system but the bleed screw was very very tight. In the end it came loose and air came out. But after screwing it in again the disc snapped off the screw (without much force, far less than needed to undo it).

Now I have the plastic screw bit stuck in the bleed opening. How to remove it? Or do I need a complete new hose?

Iroll480 · Post by **Iroll480** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:51 am

maybe you can drill it out with a small drill bit. But you will need another bleed valve. Maybe the best think to do is replacing the complete hose as those are prone to rapture when old! Did happen to mine. I payed something like 30 euro at the dealer. The part# is on the hose. It should start with a 3, if it isnÃ‚Â´t you just add it when ordering it. Also gives you an indication how old the hose is. very old when the part# starts without a 3!

Melvin480 · Post by **Melvin480** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:37 am

Where on the hose can I find the number? I've already found the number (which I think is the right one) in the partsbook, so I can compare it to the number on the hose.

The 30Euro's you paid, was that for the same hose with T-piece in it? The side hose from the T-piece goes to the throttle valve. This is because there is much difference in price between to hoses. I paid almost 100Euro's for the top radiator hose for the B18FT earlier this year.

Iroll480 · Post by **Iroll480** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 12:16 pm

I found the bill. Is item #3466430 costs where at Volvo Broekhuis Zeist from januari Ã‚Â´08 37,60 euro. And is indeed the hose with 3 ends and the bleed of valve in the thick part.

Melvin480 · Post by **Melvin480** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 12:48 pm

Thank you for looking it up. In the partsbook there are two different hoses, one with 30 at the end and one with 31. The first one is for with an oil cooler and the second one for without an oil cooler. I've a 480S, and as far as I know it doesn't have the oil cooler. I will try to find out what the difference is in the hoses. I hope they are approximately the same price.

Iroll480 · Post by **Iroll480** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 1:04 pm

YouÃ‚Â´ll need the 30, mine is also a 480S. The oilcooler part is a flaw in the partsbook.

Melvin480 · Post by **Melvin480** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:22 am

Ordered a new one today. It is cheaper than expected, it is 37,12Euro now

Veegard · Post by **Veegard** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 1:35 pm

This kinda happened to me, the dsc adn the screw bit kinda snapped off, and only the valve itself was left. Fixed it with sandpapering a plastic cork, putting it upside down. Used plastic welding to weld it to the part i snapped off. Made four holes for strips to come through it on the side, so that they'd have even pressure, and stripsed it on the hose with four strips.
Sounds confusing I know, but it works, and my system is tight. But now I can't air the sucker.

Melvin480 · Post by **Melvin480** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:03 pm

Today I fitted a new thermostat. When bleeding the system, the bleed screw in the replaced hose didn't turn as smootly as it did when it was new. The screw is fully closed now but still leaking. I don't want to snap off the screw again. So, is it possible to get a new screw only? I'll contact the dealer, but that's not possible now. For some reason this particular bleed screw doesn't like me

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:55 pm

When I snapped mine off I just whalloped a screwdriver into the remains and used that to remove it.... Amazed you brought a new one!

Just whallop a bolt in it... There's very little thats special about the poncey
brass screw.

C

Melvin480 · Post by **Melvin480** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:43 pm

If it was possible to remove the remainings, I would have done that. But the plastic remains were that tight, that the only effect of using the screwdriver was that pieces of plastic were scraped off. It wasn't possible to move the plastic part anymore. The last movement of the plastic disc was when I used a wrench.

Want type of screw did you use instead of the plastic one? Is it just a 4mm (or 5?) bolt? I think you need one with a big flat head so it covers the rubber sealing ring? What is good to use? A stainless steel bolt?

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:57 pm

Plastic? I didn'y know they did plastic ones! Later evolution perhaps?
Is the piping still metal or is it plastic too? (thinking you could have
melted the lil sucker out!)

I just grabbed a handful of bolts from my bolts pot and used the first
one that fit. No idea what sort, sorry!

C

glasgowjim · Post by **glasgowjim** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:47 pm

dont encourage cerberus he only wants to raise his posting count so he wont be a ROOOKIE any more

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:49 pm

glasgowjim wrote:dont encourage cerberus he only wants to raise his posting count so he wont be a ROOOKIE any more

Oy!

Shush you!

So.... Tell us more about this plastic bleed valve...

C

martinholmesuk · Post by **martinholmesuk** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:46 am

Plastic bleed screw (on rubber pipe) I think on the ES?

There's very little thats special about the poncey
brass screw

It's got a built in bleed channel so the screw does not need to be removed.

Melvin480 · Post by **Melvin480** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:38 am

It is on a 2L 480S. The bleed point is located at the top of a T-piece in the hose, just behind the head. It is the hose running from the head to the heater matrix. Some models have a bleed point in a metal pipe attached to the head. My cars bleed point is in the hose as said. I think it has a metal (brass??) base in the hose and a plastic screw in it. The screw itself is only 4 or 5mm in diameter, so very easy to break.

Edit:
I've fixed the leak. It seems that when bleeding the system, some plastic shavings were trapped under the rubber sealing ring. Also some were in the thread of the screw, making it very difficult to turn. I've made some pictures to explain what I was talking about:

Cerberus · Post by **Cerberus** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:21 pm

Now I see why you brought a new one!

Seems a shame volvo changed to the rubber version. Far
more difficult to bodge a repair together!

C

Veegard · Post by **Veegard** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:25 am

Do what I wrote in the post over here, and your system will be nice and tight. Use medium strips, and a plastic cork with approx. the same size as the plastic head you have. Easy as pie!