How can I make the turbo boost less/later?

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 9:33 pm

Can anyone help me?

I have checked the forum's etc, and found that the actuator rod had come loose from the wastegate pin. Have fixed it back now, but the turbo pressure has gone to the other extreme...

It feels like a concord up to about 3500 revs or so, and then it just tops out/engine disengages or something until I release the throttle or change up, then it kicks in again.

Have tried to alter the actuator rod length, although a) I am not sure whether this is going to ruin anything on the car and b) the thread etc has seized on the rod, so I don't know how to get it turning again.

It looks as though the rod has been loosened (extended) about 8mm at some stage in the past, as there is a line where the thread is less corroded... but surely to tighten it back up would increase the boost?

All parts are original to car, as far as I know (have not been changed in 10 years at any rate), but the car wasn't really hard at all, until I got hold of it 2 years ago.

What can I do? Is it safe to say that the turbo itself is working?

Also, if it is the CPU that needs sorting out, how can this be done?

(I am a novice, but willing to learn quickly!)

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:02 am

Do i chance playing with the actuator?

Or is there some way of solving this with the ECU (i don't know anything about the ECU though!)

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:23 pm

Please post photos.

How far round the boost gauge does the needle go? It should be about 12pm for a 93 on turbo or about 1:30 for pre 93.

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:00 pm

Ok, before I fixed the actuator arm back onto the wastegate pin, the gauge pin only just touched the orange (1mm in, if that)

Now i have fixed the arm back, it shoots to the end of the red at about 3000rpm and then shoots back to the start of the white together with the car engine revving without pull and a juddering.

Amazing boost until it drops out though!!!

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:15 pm

(Photo's to follow shortly)

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:55 am

His pics.

The boost is set way too high, and your jerkyness is because your ECU is protecting the engine.

Its hard to tell if this is due to a solenoid or wastegate actuator problem. Certainly if you can, try extending the wastegate rod. A photo of the tubes (white/red/black) on the solenoid would be useful too.

Actually whats probably very likely is your actuator's diaphram could be stuffed. Disconnect the red pipe from the solenoid end (carefully!) and try sucking on it. YOu should not be able to suck air through.

John

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:59 am

I was thinking that I need to shorten the actuator rod. If I extend the rod then it would not fit on the wastegate pin at all. The rod will only fir on the wastegate pin when the pin is absolutely closed (vertical). Is this a problem?

Will try to get some pics of the pipes etc.

480_rocket · Post by **480_rocket** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:11 am

Does the rod into the actuator move, it should be possible to pull on it and it'll feel like a spring.

Also, does the lever on the turbo move? One of those sounds like they are jammed.

It sounds like it could have been taken off because the actuator has broken.

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:23 am

Ok, the actuator arm can be pulled out about 5-10mm (unsing a little force, but not enough to suggest it is stuck)

The wastegate lever moves freely through 180 degrees.

How could i test whether the actuator is working?

It might be that it is not, and somebody had tried to extend the actuator rod before (it looks as if it has been extended by about 10-12mm, but the lack of corrosion on a part of the thread)

What do you reckon?

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:27 am

John turbo,

sorry for sounding like an idiot, but the red pipe coming from the actuator...

Which end is the solenoid? Is it in the actuator (the thing that the actuator arm comes out of?) i.e. do I remove the red pipe from that end and suck? lol

480_rocket · Post by **480_rocket** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:28 am

The actuator rod should be pulled out a bit to make it fit over the lever, usually about half of the hole at the end of the actuator rod.

To test actuator you can trying blowing down the pipe going into the actuator, you should feel resistance. A better test is to hook up something like a bicycle pump to it, and as you pump the rod should move out. If that works check piping is good around the boost solenoid (black box with some wires going to it and three pipes).

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:32 am

OK i think I know which is the solenoid.

I will try the solutions you have come up with when I get back tonight!

Will let you know what happens, cheers for the help

Kind Regards

Christy

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:38 am

Actually, I heard from somewhere (maybe in the forums here) that the actuator rod should have to be pulled 5mm or so out to be able to fit onto the wastegate PIN when it is completely vertical. (Please correct me if I am wrong - thinking aloud here!)

So, atm the actuator cannot possibly move the wastegate PIN anyfurther. i.e. it wouldn't be able to extend the 5mm or so that it should do when it is connected.

Will i do any damage if I try to decrease the length of the actuator rod, by 5mm or so, so it has some give, before I take pipes off? (I am a bit chicken about taking the pipes off because I can foresee there being problems getting them secured again!)

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:16 pm

The pipes are not so bad...they're nice and spongy. A small jubilee clip is what you need. I've even had zip ties on them in the past.

I'd definately say 2mm (or half a hole) of preload sounds about right. Measure the length of your actuator rod when connected...

You shoud have exactly 85.5mm of rod between the black seal on the exit of the actuator can, and the locking nut at the other end.

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:40 pm

Ok,

I have about 95mm. So will need to sort that out in anycase. Still cannot turn the end of the rod. Have been using pliers but cannot grip on the actual rod (have even very naughtily tried gripping just on the thread part!)

Thought that if I could get the actuator off then I would be better able to undo the rod extender. Couldnt get in to get the actuator off, as by the second nut (towards the back) there is a pipe right next to it. Is this pipe safe to remove? (it is screwed into what I think is the turbo itself (has garret written on the part it is going in to) If i can loosen or remove that then reckon I can get the actuator off, and sort this damn mess out!

Having a nightmare with this one!!

Will get a jubilee clip and take off the pipe off of the actuator when I can, to try what you suggested before.

Any idea's how I can loosen the damn actuator rod? Have WD-40'd (a castrol equivalent) and 3 in 1 sprayed it to hell, even leaving it overnight but nothing.

Is there anything that is simple when 480's are involved?! Lol!

robkendall · Post by **robkendall** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:47 pm

try applying a small amount of heat from a blow torch or some such to the rod....might help....also...daft as it sounds....try to tighten....just a fraction...sometimes its easier to tighten, which then 'cracks' the 'seal' made....you can then untighten as normal

rgrds
rob

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:49 pm

Cool, willl try those ideas. Didn't think about that.

Would sure prefer to be able to turn the thing in the car than have to undo everything to get it out!

JohnTurbo · Post by **JohnTurbo** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:50 pm

Yeah theres a pipe on the turbo, a pressure signal for the solenoid, its safe to remove. The fitting itself is screwed into the turbocharger too, and that can be unscrewed.

The actuator itself is on two small 10mm head bolts to the turbo compressor housing, the thing with garrett on it.

Easy to remove with a small spanner.

Mole grips or a vice would help in shortening the rod. The yellow paint in the picture should be across the rod/nut/end as standard from volvo, as you already guessed.
YOu have no chance with pliers....but they're not usually too bad. As i mentioned above, moles or a vice!

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:55 pm

Right, mole grips it is then. That makes sense about the yellow paint.

Sorry to bug you guy's with all these novice questions! I really appreciate your help though - good to be able to get help from people who really know what they are talking about!

Will prob take the thing out when I am properly kitted out and then I can get it in a vice etc. Also, it would be better to apply the heat when its out of the car! (I can imagine having no eyebrows otherwise!)

Regards

Chris

Christy · Post by **Christy** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:52 pm

Shit... Help!!!

I tightened the actuator rod to the standard 85mm. Took the red hose off the actuator and put a foot pump to it, the rod came out and when i released the pressur it went back in. I put the hose back on, and took it out.

the car boosted up then in second gear there was a 'pop' noise under the engine...

The car was stalling and sounded like it was choking. could hardly get it home. had to re-start about 6 times to crawl home about 500 metres.

Can anyone help?

I don't have a car now... and need it!