finaly working, but..

bbf · Post by **bbf** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 10:17 pm

So, I have cleaned and oiled all connectors arround the engine, cleaned idlevalve and throtle body, battery terminals and reconditioned ground cable, buy a new hose for turbo intake (50euro), removed aircondition (it was not original, it was empty, and it's electronics all oxidated, posible it wasn't working anyway..), inspected all vaccuum hoses and leaks (ok, small whisteling leakage at intercooler, insignificantly small), temperature sensor checked - in tolerances, in short - preaty accurate survey.
After the car started, it worked fine, until it warmed up (temp sensor still in correct values). The car has no power when accelerating, seems like runing on 2 cilinders and finally it dies. another try to start produces engine runing forward, backwards, forward, sputters, missfires, runing back even when ingnition taken off... mess! When doing some mesurements on the computer (18FT), i torvured the engine so much, it started to work fine, sometimes, so i could messure the signals on comp.
Compared it to the values stated from this source: http://www.carsoft.ru/avtorepair/ecm/8_2.pdf
All fine, but:

pin 7 (Air flow sensor singnal)
ingnition only should be .2 to .7V, was 1.4V
idle should be 1.5, it was 2.5V
3000rpm should be 2.4, it was 3V
open full (ok, till 7000rpm)should be over 4, never even close (max 3.5V)

and

pin 20 (Lambda): wery strange behaveur, at cold it was 0.7V, when the car was starting to run bad, it was about 2 volt (!) and finaly it raised to 4volts! at this point, the car was unable to start at all. ok, somehow it passed this nausea, it started to show me 0'56 volts, constantly, not dependant on rpm and load (cooling fan runing or not and similar).
Could it be that the heating element in lambda is interfearing? or did somehow the unburned fuel waterd sonde? or watter vapors? too much questions? another one?

and one more thing: the alternator is feeding tha battery with 16Volts and sometimes with correct voltage. yes, another bad junction in it... . This is bad and the battery is near the grave since i bought it. whatewer.

If anyone has messured this two pins on ECU i would be werry glad if he would share his discovers to me and others.

Thanks!

volvofox · Post by **volvofox** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 10:30 pm

sorry. maybe some body with this "Volvo cd that knowone is allowed to have" can help you, it contains such data

bbf · Post by **bbf** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 10:50 pm

what all would i give for this "no one is allowed to have" cd

!
ok, just an extract wich concerns my post....

martinholmesuk · Post by **martinholmesuk** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 10:56 pm

"no one is allowed to have"

Someone might let you download it from a speacial site?

mogge · Post by **mogge** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 5:55 pm

Hi!

Frist of all, you have to fix your alternator. 16 volts is not god for the ECU!

Second, have you checked the fuelsuply? Pressure or flow?

Please measure pin 14, Co potensiometer, here you adjust co on car ( adjustment to the pin 7 signal)

Do you have possibility to measure time, opening time of the injectors? (nBv and pin 13)

I think your car is running to fat, the OS signal (20) are 0,5V from the ECU started, after appr 1,5 min the ECU starts measure from OS sensor. The signal should change betwen 0,7-0,9 and down to 0,2-0,3V

You could try to adjust om the airflow sensor (there is a plug on it) besides the contact.

Jonas

If you like, have a look here, sorry its in swedish!

http://volvo480.kicks-ass.net

http://volvo480.kicks-ass.net/servlet/u ... icle&id=12

Bakke · Post by **Bakke** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:11 am

@ Bff, sorry for the off - topic but I have a little question.

My turbo is having some troubles spooling up (large turbo gap) and when it is pressurized (in the yellow zone) I can hear a hiss. So last night I took it all appart and found that it was the hose for the turbo intake that was worn out and had holes in it. Today I'll command a new from Volvo, but I was wondering if this is really the problem, since that part of the engine isn't under pressure, the oppisite site from the turbo is.

Why did you change yours and what were the symptoms?

Greetz
Bakke

bbf · Post by **bbf** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 9:00 am

bakke, i've replaced this hose:

it was cracked where the green marking is. i could hear a characteristic turbo hiss inside the car, now i don't. The crack was caused by a airco hose pressing much the heating element of engine vintilation hose. The hole was 8mm wide and 15mm long (that's why i get rid of airco in first place). The air which entered through this hole was not measured by the airflowmassmetter and thous erratic engine state readings to computer. I didn't feel the turbo gap (or wasn't paying attention to it - i only drove my car on test drive before buying it - it went like airplane!!)

This side of a turbo is pressured with a slight underpressure caused by a turbo sucking the air. the hiss is a sound from turbo spades cutting the air. if the sound is clean and soft, the spades are good. if it is ringing or something else, it is bad. (through my experience driving nissan patrol 3.3TD with good and with bad turbo).

the turbo intake hose on my car was prolongt by about 5 cm towards turbo. And still is. There is a hose for watter heater of cabine in the way.
Tell me, how much did you pay for the hose (if it is the same as mine). Mine was about 50Euro. It is slightly different as shown in catalog. (two connections are swaped)

Note - do not try to repair with ordinary siliconic putty anywhere on air intake, it's vapours will destroy lambda probe. use only special.

i've changed mine because of a bad starting when hot. i thought that was it. but, it must be something with labda probe or to high charging voltage or something else. i'll see it in future, right now i have to put together interior and nose.

Bye!

Bakke · Post by **Bakke** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 10:12 am

Hey , thats exactly the hose I'm about to replace. The metal tierap (29) had cut mine literally in 2. I've just telephoned to volvo to order the piece. They should have it tomorrow. I'll keep you updated about the price and my turbo gap after the fit of this hose since it was only a little hole with you but a completely fell-off of mine. This would also mean that there is a connection between the air mass meter and the turbo ...

Bakke · Post by **Bakke** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 12:46 pm

... and I replaced them today. Whow ! What a difference. I drove my 480 for a year before I found out what was wrong and where to search for it. Now the car runs much smoother goes easier into high rpm's without any hesitation as he used to ! Still a major turbo gap (when flooring the pedal about 2-3 seconds to max pressure). So much more fun to drive and I allready enjoyed it a lot.
Greetz
Bakke
PS ohw yeah, the piece costed me 45.95â‚¬ so a little bit less, but not that much

volvofox · Post by **volvofox** » Thu Jan 15, 2004 11:27 pm

bakke,

to a setain extent a chipped older turbo is meant to have a turbo gap!!!!!!! the gap is all the fun in the car!! I hate modern turbo's who work from low revs, but do only have half the boost

Driving it is a bit like me: people at the stoplights get a way ahead, and just as they think they 've won (if i donot losse too much traction in the proces) the car overtakes this fast the others think they stopped.

modern turbo's don't have the "Hammer" effect (in other words the bulb behind the gap)

luck
JPF

Bakke · Post by **Bakke** » Fri Jan 16, 2004 7:37 am

Indeed, the hammer effect is really cool. Yesterday eve I also placed my chip and the first time I was driving it it into the turbo zone I was really yelling from exitement. What a power! 0-100km/h in 7 sec !!