Volvo 480 Club Europe

Am I correct in assuming the self parking feature is controlled by the CEM in LHS? trying to get the headlamp washers to work and oddly enough now the front wipers stop moving when turn them off :-( (or when wash wipe they park 'anywhere' as it happens the 'wipe whilst held' feature seems to be only...

According to HBOL, not that difficult, most difficult is getting a spanner onto the top right nut at front of rack. heat shield can be a pig to get undone, I think I used a fair bit of brute force to pull it over the heads of the wee bolts :wink: getting the rack wangled out can be a chore as you ne...

to get a needle on a gauge to move about 10mm, but what else have I got to do!! glue it in the middle ? :wink: you only worry when you see it going down as oil thins due to heat. . . . there might be another tapping on the block that could be used? I think HBOL shows the oil galleries, often blanke...

Hi all, I had a look at a friends oil pressure sender setup yesterday. It's the first time I've seen the sender in position. Just to confirm, the mounting bracket for the oil pressure sender is just that, a mounting bracket. It has no function in the operation of the sender? I'm guessing it just po...

They'd be the same? (but different) :wink: LHD will be longer across to the point where they go onto the rack (next to the column) so I guess I'll have to get mine made up. if you are using them from the spares car :( . bloke I have a beer with reckons best option is to go flexible from rack to retu...

Success (of sorts) for info distance between the mounting holes is approx 129mm, one hole is slotted overall height when assembled is 90mm. here is how i fixed mine . . . . . I cut the side from a piece of 50mm box section, leaving 3mm each edge, 30mm wide with an 8mm hole in centre. about 6mm corne...

nope

if needed to pay that much for rear lights I'd be re-working the back end to incorporate individual LED clusters
(maybe with a clean sheet of lexan/perspex as a cover)

if i had a gash unit i could get PU moulded fairly easily, just need a unit to copy!!! Might be able to help with that, depending on where the cut-off point between 'gash' and 'totally bolloxed' lies. See this post for an idea of what my old one looks like. Ade has also suggested that he could help...

yep

indicator bulb wiring

if i had a gash unit i could get PU moulded fairly easily, just need a unit to copy!!!

The company I work for makes PU parts in another location

but to be honest if I'd known how worn mine was I'd have just fitted an old style sub-frame and an old style mount, rather than cutting & shutting

any body found a source of item 70 in teh above image?

most appear to be 'sold out'

so alternatives are looking like a plan, ie what dimensions are the height and the distance between bolt mounts?

12 seconds in view of an SS1, galv chassis version, nowt to go wrong that isn't easy fix!

i'll pass on the wings thanks, paint is easier than fitting and those look like ferrari ones , not Volvo :wink: I can confirm that the two litre manual DOES have the dipped rear section :-( I had to cut the old mounting area from old subframe and weld it into the new one (new one was 'old style' but...

my tuppence would suggest that if no clouds of blue smole as on/off throttle then your turbo isn't passing oil through the seals. a wee thin film of oil is 'normal' as the oil breather system is never going to pull out ALL the entrained oil from eth crankcase, as teh rings wear then more oil will bl...

I have a 2.0 engine in the lhd car. if it is any good to you either as a replacement or a temp engine during the rebuild. As the cars run in fuel injection I tend to favour a standard rebuild as it takes away worries about compatabilty with the ecu. If you tweek the engine you would want to do the ...

Can you not source a two litre from a rusted Renault?

you can transplant a fairly wild looking beast from a Clio :-0 (180BHP ?)

it drops straight in , except for the slight mod for the four carbs up front should you feel the urge !!!!

Ok let me know how you get on, but I reckon I might have found a solution one of the guys I meet up with (Tuesday drinking) says that he can probably make up a replacement. the return line is easy and only needs aright angle connector and then re-route the return line close up bulkhead next to servo...

It's meant to 'help' retain the wires on a two pin connector, not really sure how much good it does?

I removed it from the connector for the speedo 'pick-up' and didn't put it back on, speedo working so 'if it ain't broke' . . . . .

do you have power steering hoses (well especially the one that is at pressure) I know it's LHD, but I'll manage to 'lose' the extra length, but mine is NOT A/C so your power steering pump will have a banjo fitting on the top vs a section of 'bent pipe' but I'm sure I can over come that wee wrinkle ....

Fraser

assuming the MoT is OK then aye, not too far for me,

you're OK, long trip, have a meal, car cools down , restart , all OK