Volvo 480 Club Europe

So the idea of taking the plugs out is to remove compression from the engine, making it much easier to turn over. Jack a wheel up, put it in gear and turn the wheel will turn the engine over. Oh and when you'redoing check 3, have the plugs back in! if it's a slush box goosed there!!! ;) if plugs ar...

Ok, a few things to try: 1) Plugs out - will the engine turn over by hand? 2) still with plugs out, will the engine now turn over on the starter? 3) put a voltmeter, set to 20v, between the negative terminal and a good ground on the engine, crank it over. Anything more than .5v will indicate a poor...

photos here (maybe) on google drive, as a shared item https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VgWTFkOllE8f0smd4QLLbxGQap4g6z_maDvLX7TO6tQWzGzW0A0duj1-oIncPgiIri6Zqa7je12nSZb4T_IjDcrsJF7ELGhhYvhgUb4hOASiVAvF0TrCFChlmIt1CF3NhK5pqDue7aTldko6em7idvk2Oybh86k8TSPHxzFhnzLlgyMuMe3zcMGzEHSqe57oqWea9TqtZ15Mt4apfYp2...

This looked super clean inside the boot, assumed cos in NL, but with a rusty bumper then saw that this was ORIGINALLY posted in 2007

Hi Alan I've been having a similar issue, after buying a car with dead turbo oil seals. (Definite oil in intercooler pipework and inlet, since drained and throttle etc cleaned) I tried a spare tps (not guaranteed to be working) and had the same idle after going though all other tests and possibilit...

Well it has been a year so I thought I would do a follow up to the gripping cv joint drama :shock: The engine/box and full car loom had to be taken out as the abs system is different.. What also did not help was the way the engine snatcher just cut through the interior loom when there was no need.....

I had same issue, I'd unplugged the module on LHS to do some work (behind the trim with the bonnet pull) and after I removed it to see if I could see any faults, viewed the relays toggling correctly after plugged it back in (sitting in footwell) and 'bingo' !! :wink: so maybe not a great help. on mi...

Today's progress: Pop-Ups now both work (relay needed a bit of a contact clean and some WD40 Brake lights now work rear drivers side brake is sticking less but not perfect the car is ready for an MOT, however, when trying to fix the Speedometer issue, a discovery was made: https://i.postimg.cc/kXf9...

Allay your fears! You have done just fine, do NOT go adding any more grease! In fact more grease is potentially a “bad thing”. You know how they give you those little sachets of grease? That’s how much grease needs to go in. If you have those “there’s no such thing as too much grease” thoughts, we’...

I had a 'light bulb' moment , which I'd rather NOT had :-( I put grease into the boot, pressed a load into the ball races with a putty knife, but MOST I put into the hole where the splines go in. now I'm got a wee niggle that this might not have been the best place :? , I'd reasoned that the outboar...

can't help on mirror covers and I know not the 'perfect' solution but our number plate holder got 'trashed' at some point due to parking 'too close' I took the holder from the rear, cut the middle protrusion off , turned it upside down and fitted to the front. simples :hopping: not sure why it even ...

Now with the car running, the goal is to get her to MOT-worthiness, which mainly involves the headlights sorting, I was doing some reading the other day, on an old forum post, which gave a link to the main site and the electronics page, there it said that it can either be a fuse or a dampener, whic...

Yep, PM sent well I had a look this evening (under flood light, so not as good as day light) and I can't see any screw that is on the back of the throttle body pointing forward!!! there is a small 'item' that is covered with a plastic fitting and an aluminium 'clip' but it is maybe a throttle stop ...

brinkie wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 21, 2019 12:32 pm

Just wondering, how do you take the popup motor out? I always remove the nose cone and then take the popup frame out completely but some people claim they can take the motor out without doing that.

N/S (UK), left nosecone in place, not tried , yet, the O/S

I was planning on leaving it 'as is' for a week or so, checking still grease tight after each time SWAMBO uses it and if all tight then nip up a bit more as long as it is holding. . .. . maybe get it wiggled further up onto the lip so more secure? I have a bundle of SS clips that I bought after the ...

Robou wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 16, 2019 11:13 pm

If this #3 is indeed the screw you're worried about, just use anything to plug the hole. There's no use for it. Let alone for adjusting idle.

Given this post are you still needing a blanking screw? I got sort of distracted today with drive shaft issues

Anybody used a 'Qunitin Hazel' boot? QJB197 I went to swap the winter tyres from rear to front today and was met with a completly shredded outer boot :-( and a very sticky alloy wheel quick call and the local motor factors had a pair in stock (from 1993, judging by the amount of dust & date stamp on...

A multimeter across the battery is the best check - You should see at least 13.5v with the engine running. However, before starting, check that the battery warning light is lit up on the dashboard with the ignition on, if it's not, it can prevent the alternator from starting to charge. It could be ...

cheers

might be the week-end cos it's dark when i get home and car is outside, and don't fancy dropping the ruddy thing then having to explain to SWAMBO why the car is 'off the road'

Hi, I need urgently the theottle brass screw that adjusts the idle. It's for a 91 turbo. Anyone has one that can sell? Cheers Do you know the thread pattern? it is likely metric ? or which one is it on the two litre and i can have a quick look if that helps then but a box of twenty from Screwfix :-)