Volvo 480 Club Europe

Actually i'd tend to find a 3 wire (new) bosch on ebay and try and get it for about 20-30quid. Thats what i usually do. - Or if i'm not keeping it long, there's universal cheap ones for like 12quid on ebay. - they seem to work ok. I've metered up the output, its fine. Won't last as long though. Do ...

I also wanted to post a photo from the dash while driving with the CC on. But I had problems with making a reasonable photograph while driving

The infocenter shows a new value for instant fuel consumption every certain distance. When idling, the car doesn't move, so the info center isn't updated. It shows that last value for the fuel consumption. Another option causing the lack of power and the firings into the exhaust is ignition related....

Well i've got the firings while driving... especially when pressing the clutch to shift up or, after releasing the clutch when shifiting down and using the engine brake... This is an interesting point. With closed throttle (and rpm above 1500 with a warm engine, that's what the B18FT does) the ECU ...

Thanks. I think it will be a good time. I enjoy both being on holiday and driving to the destination and back (Slovenia this year)

I let my girlfriend pay for the holiday No, ofcourse I pay my part myself. Last year I did a full time study and also worked 60hours a month, so I have saved some money for the holiday.

What Rob mentiones (air temp sensor) isn't useful for you if you have a B18F, with a MAF. Then there is no air temp sensor, it's included in the MAF. If the rpm sensor is broken, the engine won't run very well, also at higher rpm and during driving. Do you only get the firings into the exhaust at id...

I finished the car a bit more today. I placed the sill plates I got from LASEROWL with black foil underneath it to make the 'Volvo' black. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_K8h5Pu_tBbU/SlDxPuegmYI/AAAAAAAAARo/X-Vsdinmtrw/s800/05072009105.jpg And I've put the German 'Enviromental Plate' on the windscreen. It's a...

Well, then forget about the MAF and just check for air leaks :lol: Your rpm can drop if not enough air is coming to the engine, or when the amount of air that is flowing isn't measured properly. In that case the ECU doesn't supply enough (or maybe too much) fuel. I won't give any more stupid suggest...

Also check and clean the eyelet of the ECU earth at the engine hoist point. I had very bad emissions too that seems to have been caused by this bad earth. In my case the connection of the eyelet to the cable was corroded very bad. I've put a new eyelet on the cable. I think the high resistance in th...

I don't know the B18F very well, like the B18FT. I asume that it uses the same equipment without the turbo charger. If it uses a MAF like the FT, it is very sensitive to air leaks anywhere after the MAF. Check for air leaks, paying extra attention to all the vacuumhoses. Another option is that your ...

What type of engine do you have? That would help to give the right suggestions.

The story for the idle valve not working all the time is not true, at least not for the turbo engines. The idle is set, with the idle valve closed and all the electric consumers off, at 700rpm by adjusting the bypass screw. The rest, up till 800rpm, is regulated by the idle valve. So it is always op...

I don't have the parts, but to help to find the right parts: You need to mention whether you need the old or new type cover, or that it doesn't matter. The old type has colored sides of the popup. The newer ones have black plastic sides, made of more rough plastic, so it would be harder to have thes...

B18FT - LOVER wrote:

Auk wrote:Do you normally wear panties?

I like thongs myself....

Nothing wrong with that as long as you don't show photo's

and paved the parking space for the occasion :rofl: :rofl: Ofcourse I did. Last week it still was a sand road there. This resulted in that my new painted car looked like this: http://lh5.ggpht.com/_K8h5Pu_tBbU/SjVypUsyKzI/AAAAAAAAAN4/TKH8Ju2FjaU/s800/14062009089.jpg So, I paved the road and parking...

I've never seriously looked at new cars, as I have not the money for it. Maybe in a few years I will come to the same conclusion as you. I also put the volvo badge one the nose cone: http://lh3.ggpht.com/_K8h5Pu_tBbU/SjLZ8RdTkCI/AAAAAAAAAM0/AlZF3FZspko/s800/12062009086.jpg http://lh3.ggpht.com/_K8h5...

I don't think parts of the engine are really worn out. From what I read, it's more a 'feature' of the early B20F's (with red dipstick) to use more oil. That's why I want to try thicker oil. If for example the valve gaskets would be leaking, then replacing them would be the solution ofcourse.

I've found a 15W50 oil. It is an, I think fully mineral, oil with specifications SF/CC. The oil I use now is a semi synthetic 10W40 with specifications SL/CF. I know it isn't a problem to switch back to fully mineral, but are the specifactions good enough? Or should I look for a higher quality 15W50...

The milage of the car is only 91.000km (57.000 miles), so I don't need anything special for high milages. -W45 sounds also good, but I haven't seen anything like that before. I will look at both the-W45 and -W50 ones. The 10W40 oil used at this moment is good quality oil from Kroon Oil, so that's no...