Volvo 480 Club Europe

With golden help from Richard Pruen, who provided the contents of an, I believe, experimental eprom and tons of helpful information, I managed to level up my '91 turbo to a very pleasant mean of transportation. Quick and easy I would say. After two years and 30.000 KM of joyfull driving the car land...

What I don't understand here: 1- The cat was up till 1993 courtesy of Volvo and so one can pass the Dutch MOT (aka APK) without it. Officially it is non existent. 2- The cat can be replaced with a standard muffler which fits exactly in place with the same flange. It has much less restriction than th...

It's the valve for Audi TT, same housing, just the valve inside is made of metal in stead of plastic.

It goes for Euro 23,-- about. So why worry?

No, if you consider coil being the combination of module and coil. Both are triggered with a low level signal from an ECU. But the ECU's are different and so may be the trigger pulses.

Mixture too lean? Examine the plugs and watch the oil temperature.
Too lean a mixture wouldn't harm the power output under heavy load, on the contrary.

Even worse: Due to a stupidity on my behalf my instrument came out with wrong figures. Where I state 1.4 Ohm read 0.8 Ohm.

As far as I remember from my ES the coil and ignition module were integrated, it is a wholy different concept.

And if I'm mistaken here, there wouldn't be any reason not to interchange coils as long as the resistance of the primaries is about the same.

My post wasn't as nice as John Turbo judged: Today I thought of acquiring a spare coil because of the quite long trip through parts of France, Spain and Portugal, end stop Estoril, which I'm going to make, and first thing I did was measuring the resistance of the primary winding. This I forgot to me...

As I suppose it is something like an answer to my post and futhermore completely in line with the devastation of a technical subject:

Wot the hell is "flash git!" ?

Wide Open Throttle, greetings from the continent.

Any coil which claims to be suited for a transistorized ignition system or says it should be used with an external resistor (but then you should use it without such) should do the job. The first type is to be preferred, because it is supposed to withstand the heat better than the latter. The best so...

The code consists of four figures and you are allowed to try this three times. After at least one hour with radio switched on you are allowed another try. With some mathematics you could figure out this method may cost you years. Maybe the former owner noted the code somewhere on the housing. If not...

These devices are hard to produce with a tolerance of less than 10% and, by the way, their values change in time. Their values are generally compared to a set value in the computing device, which isn't exact either. It is not very important at what exact temperature/pressure something happens, who c...

Haynes is correct. You aren't in this respect, that the resistance will drop in stead of shoot up, it is a Negative Temperature Coëfficient-type. The check should be done at 80 deg., this is where the water starts "gassing", the restistance should be 330 Ohms, about. And, if applicable, check the...

Yes, it's a general principle. Maybe nowadays detection is done in different ways. The blade position can be checked by many ways electronically. But on second thought (one should have those before putting something in writing!) your blade(s) stop at a certain position after you switch off, so the m...

Sure. I presume your blade is wiping the window and not your license plate, so the arm is mounted the right way. Shutting off is done by a contact inside the motor. Mostly a slider which runs over a copper strip. It's an incomplete circle and where it ends, the motor stops by lack of juice. This sto...

I wonder if this subject has any common interest and deserves a place in a "how to", but anyway: One is only allowed to use a fog light when the rear lights are on, so if you have a spare connector in your trailer plug feed the live of your trailer's rear lights back to the coil of a relais, of whic...

Both diodes conduct, as long as they're identical, half of the necessary current for the two trailer bulbs, so the detector should keep on doing it's work, which I presume was your objective.

If not, why not make connections before the detector?

Connect a diode in each wire from the car to the one wire of your trailer connector. These diodes are cheap and will do the trick. The specs are low voltage, 5 Amp, this will ample do for two 20W bulbs.

If you don't know what a diode is and/or where to get them, pm me.

Sometimes, reading this forum, one may come to think that English people (from a continental view, of course you are more than just English!) have a lot more temperament than existing around the Mediterranean. Especially when Richard Pruen is concerned. I know, by experience, he did a lot to make ma...